Thereafter, most movement is confined to walking between surf and increasingly sandy accommodation via the chilly bin. But after a three-day break up north, which included fishtailing across waves in high-speed boats, parasailing, hurtling down sand hills on boogie boards and taking part in Paihia's answer to Cirque du Soleil, telling the kids to pack the same board game they've played 50 times before may not cut it anymore.
To me, the Bay of Islands had always seemed more a tourist destination than a family getaway - a place famed for its islands, surrounded by water. A visit there implied a boat ride, which seemed likely to be expensive and perhaps a little passive for kids. But the Far North tourism industry has grown to the point where there are now options to suit most budgets and tastes - and that extends off-water to land-based attractions, accommodation and food.
You can, for instance, skim at 80 km/h across the water to the Hole in the Rock on boats straight from a James Bond movie - with names like Excitor or Mack Attack - where part of the thrill is getting wet and bounced around by waves.
On the day we went, kitted-out in red rubber suits and lifejackets, the bay was a millpond and the only spray came from our wake as the skipper turned the twin-propellered craft as violently as he dared to create a "rooster tail". Twelve-year-old Greta was impressed: "It was windy, exciting and very fast."
High-speed boats are ideal if you want to pack more than one activity into your half-day. Which we did - waiting at the wharf on our return was the Flying Kiwi tandem parasail boat. This whisked us up to 365m for a bird's-eye view of the 144 islands. "Breathtaking," was Greta's verdict.
A more sedate way to see the bay is the traditional ferry to the Hole in the Rock, with more time to appreciate the islands - a beguiling mix of emerald pasture, regenerating bush and craggy rock formations on blue water.
Fullers' half-day Hole in the Rock cruise exposed us to another thing they're getting better at up north, telling visitors the history - right back to when Russell was branded "the hellhole of the South Pacific". Passing by beautiful Motuarohia (Roberton) Island we learned the gruesome fate of the Roberton family after Maketu, the son of a Maori chief, exacted utu (tribal revenge) on a farm worker and then killed off the witnesses.
Unfortunately, the Treaty of Waitangi had just been signed and utu didn't cut it with European judges. He was tried and hanged. On the way back from Piercy Island, the boat stopped at Urupukapuka Island, where a new attraction was a 40-minute storytelling encounter, exploring the realms of Tane Mahuta (god of the forest) and Tangaroa (god of the sea).
After a mihi (greeting), we clambered on board the Aratapu, a glass-bottomed, semi-submersible boat, made over to resemble a waka, which took us out to look at the children of Tangaroa. These turned out to be trevally, mostly. This Maori cultural immersion beats anything my children had learned in the classroom.
As much as they enjoyed that, they were most impressed by the dolphins which joined us on the return trip, playing around the bow as the boat slowed and then surfing off our wake, leaping from the water to impress the contingent of mainly British and Australian tourists. Most of this action-packed adventure had, in fact, taken place sitting, or lying, down. And so it proved again on day two when we hopped on a bus trip along 90 Mile Beach to Cape Reinga aboard the Dune Rider, a square-looking, four-wheel-drive which was much more comfortable than it appeared.
The day-long trip is arguably best-suited to short-term visitors who might otherwise never see the sights of Doubtless Bay or drive along the beach to witness the collison of two oceans at the top. But two things make it worth considering for "locals", even if they've already been to the top.
The first is the detour up Te Paki stream to the giant sand hills, the calf-testing clamber to the top and the near-vertical descent on a boogie board. The second is the near-uninterrupted commentary of our driver Paul, a fount of knowledge on the Far North who does go on a bit but introduces us to the things we've missed in ignorance on past trips. "I feel like a tourist in my own country," quipped my 16-year-old, who refuses to be named because it isn't cool.
Paul's commentary centred mainly on the area's rich Maori and European heritage. We stormed a pa site out of Mangonui for the stunning views of the harbour and Doubtless Bay and visited Gumdiggers Park, a buried kauri forest at Waiharara, where remnants of 45,000-year-old kauri trees are exposed and the story of the kauri gum industry unfolded. There were replica huts where the gumdiggers lived and a video explained theories on what destroyed the forest.
Near Whangaroa Harbour, Paul pointed out the Taratara Rock, from where you can see both coasts. "It's the Maori Ayers Rock," says Paul, "only we don't go on about it as much." After a full-day in a bus, and a slap-up feed at the Scenic Circle Hotel restaurant, the kids had energy to burn. Action World dealt to that.
As the Flying Oslers, South African-born owners Carol and Freddy Osler-Weppenaar performed in Royal Command performances and, in 1978, won the Circus World Championships. Tired of injuring themselves on safety nets, the couple devised a tubular airbag system they call "crush cushion technology".
To the uninitiated, it looks like bouncy castle heaven. But it means novices can try the high-wire, trapeze and climbing walls without harnesses - and their parents have little to fear. As well as roll-up visitors, the attraction has a core of regulars - some of whom have sights set on a circus career.
A growing sense of unease develops as I watch Philippa progress from swinging monkey bars to climbing wall to high wire before Freddy instructs her in the ways of the flying trapeze. "She's a natural," he says. "Good upper body strength."
The future is unravelling before my eyes. Time to head back to Auckland. But we returned with a very different view of what a Bay of Islands holiday is about. Camping just won't be the same.
IF YOU GO
Flying Kiwi Parasail
Fullers Hole in the Rock cruise
Action World, Paihia
Geoff Cumming visited the Bay of Islands and Far North courtesy of Destination Northland and Air New Zealand . Accommodation was provided by Edgewater Palms Apartments and rental car by Go Birdz.
