Conditions are light northerly breezes and minimal swell for our visit to two sites for two dives/snorkels with an hour in-between. Some of us are experienced divers, some not, so Luke suggests we stay at around 18m to 20m. He tells us that whereas diving and snorkelling is usually about finding fish, at Poor Knights the fish find you.
"Basically you're in their backyard and they will follow anything different."
While he runs through safety points and info about our South Harbour anchorage, with Aorangi Island behind us, the crew ready the dive gear. We let the divers and guides go first, disappearing over the bow in their 7mm wetsuits, flippers, tanks, masks.
In the water, husband and 15- year-old son are the more confident snorkellers, but the abundance of fish and plant life is so distractingly fascinating I quickly relax and enjoy the sideshow unfolding below as breathing through a tube becomes second nature.
On parade are snapper, trevally, mao mao, lobsters and even, if you're lucky (we're not), seals and tropical fish at the same time thanks to a warm current bringing sea life all the way from Australia. It's also rather neat when you spot divers below, their air bubbles dancing to the water surface.
Time passes quickly and we flip-flop back on to the boat, pulling on warm tops over wetsuits/togs. Between snorkels we have time to tuck into a paper-bag lunch plus hot drinks. Everyone's buzzing about the clear visibility and tallies of sea creatures spotted are compared. The second anchorage is Hope Point (the spots are decided by the day's swell, wind direction, experience and divers' preference) where Luke shares snippets of the islands' Maori history before the second dive.
An hour more in the water marvelling at the fish and everyone is back on board and counted. Before we return to base, Luke steers the boat into the world's largest sea cave, Riko Riko, to enjoy the natural light displays.
Our snorkelling, piggybacking this dive trip, is a taster of the summer Perfect Day Trips dedicated to snorkelling, SUP boarding and kayaking, and especially popular with families.
Verdict: they're spot on choosing their adjective. Our time at the Poor Knights has been perfect.
TUTUKAKA
Stay: Oceans Resort Hotel ... you'll love waking up to the marina view.
Eat: Schnappa Rock Restaurant and Bar ... great decor, fantastic menu and friendly staff.
Drive: Even if you're not planning to scuba dive, the coastal drive to Tutakaka and Schnappa Rock's menu are worth the trip alone - especially comfortable for us in a loaned Ford EcoSport (its Sync feature lets you listen to your phone's music and make hands-free calls). The EcoSport even got the verdict of "sick" from the teenager (which, despite how it sounds, is positive feedback) and we liked its combo of being economical when cruising along but also appreciated being able to select more grunt for hill climbs or overtaking slow vehicles. Easy to park, too, generous leg space and its distinctive blue made it easy to spot when we couldn't remember exactly where we had parked it in the city.
Dive: Dive! Tutukaka has Padi dive courses with experienced instructors as well as day trips with marine biologists, naturalists and award-winning photographers.
WHANGAREI
The Hatea Loop in Whangarei.
We spent one day in Whangarei and one day at Tutukaka, a blend of city and coast. Our trip was timed to enjoy Whangarei celebrating its 50th anniversary of city status.
And what a Saturday Whangarei turned on - beautiful weather, street parties, a dress-up parade (which must have emptied every op shop of their 60s clothing) and the Kiwis v Samoa nail-biting league match at Toll Stadium.
We also cruised the shops, appreciating the pedestrian-only streets.
But you don't need an anniversary to savour this city. Weekend treats for visitors are the Saturday morning growers' market, the Town Basin and Hatea Loop Walkway, and the Whangarei Art Museum.
Stay: Parkhill in Dent St in the city centre ... comfy beds, wonderful breakfasts and great views.
Eat: Red Pizzeria (metre-long pizzas for groups) and the Basin's Mokaba Cafe have great food and are friendly spots.
Further information: See whangareinz.com.
Donna McIntyre and family were guests of Whangarei District Council, Dive! Tutukaka and Ford New Zealand.
