Cathy Smith does a bit of country-hopping as she takes in the might and power of the Niagara Falls.
When I mentioned to a friend that I was thinking of going to see Niagara Falls he said, "Which one?" I'd always heard them described as one of the wonders of the world, now I was being told there were two. Two small towns, both named Niagara Falls, are on
each side of the border between the United States and Canada. The waterfalls span the Niagara River between Ontario and upper New York State.
I was curious to see how each country dealt with life alongside the falls and was surprised to find there are some differences, not only between the two towns but between the American and the Canadian falls.
We drove the 144km from Toronto, about an hour and a half trip, along the Niagara Parkway, a beautiful scenic route which borders the Niagara River, with many picnic areas and parks along the way.
This makes for an enjoyable introduction to Niagara Falls, Canadian style - the town, that is - a sort of North American version of Blackpool or Coney Island. It has plenty of tat, hamburger joints and souvenir shops, pink hearts and honeymoon cottages.
The story goes that Napoleon's brother is to blame for all this honeymoon stuff. He supposedly brought his new bride here to see the wonder of the falls and it has been a magnet for newlyweds ever since.
The town also has some Disney-like attractions - Ripley's Believe It or Not, Tussauds Wax Museum, etc - plus an abundance of hotels and restaurants. But it doesn't matter that it isn't a haven of culture. Millions come here every year just to see the falls and the town exists to attend to their needs.
For a more cultural experience, drive 24km along the road to Niagara-on-the-Lake, an architectural jewel, considered one of the best-preserved 19th-century towns in North America.
However, in Niagara Falls, most eyes are on the falls, not on the town. And what a sight they are.
Of the two waterfalls, the Canadian, or Horseshoe Falls, are the most impressive by far. They stretch 760m across the Niagara River in a huge thundering curve.
In 1859, after watching the French tightrope walker Blondin walk from the American to the Canadian side on a 7cm rope, carrying his terrified manager on his shoulders, the future King Edward VII of England exclaimed, "Thank God it's over!" It's easy to relate to that.
Others have done equally brave/crazy things. As I looked down into the foaming mass of water, feeling the force and hearing the roar of 52 million litres of water a minute hurtling into the river, I wondered about those people in their wooden barrels and on their tightropes. Just looking scared me.
A safer way of getting close to the falls without risking your life is to take a trip on the boat Maid of the Mist, which carries you to the foot of the torrent. It looks awfully small and vulnerable against the backdrop of the great gushing wall of water.
First, you are dressed in blue plastic rain gear, then you chug out towards the falls, getting liberally showered with spray en route. The roar of the falls is deafening and its power overwhelming. For a closer look you can go on the journey behind the falls which takes you along tunnels cut through the rock.
Crossing to the American side, or Canadian, depending on where you are, is easy. You just walk or drive over the Rainbow Bridge, but make sure you have your papers/passport with you.
The American falls are sometimes called Bridal Veil Falls and they do look like a huge, white misty veil stretched across the Niagara River. The middle of the river marks the international border between the United States and Canada and is the longest unprotected border in the world.
It is difficult to get a panoramic view of the Bridal Falls as you are too close to them - almost too close for comfort sometimes. To get really close an elevator from Goat's Island takes you to the Cave of the Winds, where you walk beside the falls on wooden walkways, a mere 8m away from the hurtling water.
The walkways twist up through the rocks and the spray is drenching. Bright yellow raincoats are provided with funny-looking felt slippers, designed to prevent you from slipping on the wooden steps.
The Maid of the Mist also makes trips from the American side, but the experience is much the same whichever side you choose.
Something different on the American side is Three Sisters Island. It's just a short walk from the falls and I spent a happy few hours in this pleasant park which borders rapids racing towards the falls. I sat on a rock, close enough to put my hand in the water. It was hypnotising watching the churning water rush by.
The small town of Niagara Falls on the American side is less commercial than its Canadian counterpart. It seems an older, more established place, with ordinary neighbourhoods and proper shops, plus some good restaurants.
Some of the best shopping in the State is here: more than 150 fashion outlet shops with all the big designer names. They are about 4-6km from downtown and a free shuttle bus takes you there.
Among the places to eat, I particularly liked the Como, a local Italian restaurant which opened in 1927 that has been a hangout for stars like Frank Sinatra, Bette Midler, Pearl Bailey, and more.
Marilyn Monroe and Jo DiMaggio ate at the Como when the movie Niagara was being made.
Honeymooners also come this side of the river. But in Niagara, Marilyn's character had something other than a honeymoon in mind - she planned to murder her husband and chuck him into the torrent.
Honeymoon or not, the two sides of Niagara Falls are each worth a visit. Oscar Wilde remarked that he would have been more impressed if the falls had flowed upwards. I bet he only said that for effect and that he really thought they were terrific. I did.
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Further information: See tourismniagara.com or niagarafallstourism.com.
For details of the United States falls, see niagara-usa.com or niagarafallslive.com.
