A tiny magical island wants to keep it that way, writes Annabel Langbein.

About an hour into our trip from Cancun to the dog-eared port town of Chiquila, we all needed a bathroom stop. The road ran in a long straight line through the jungle, passing shabby villages and shacks selling cold coconuts and Coca-Cola. Our driver threw a look of dismay and veered off the highway.

We came to a small scruffy township, and stopped outside a small hospital. Our driver turned to us and pointing into the hospital announced "toilet OK here". So there we were, heading down

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ISLA HOLBOX: DINING, DRINKING AND SLEEPING

GETTING THERE