New Zealand expo pavilion small but effective

If you're looking for a calm, green island of cool in the expo sea of hot, noisy chaos, head for New Zealand. It is one of the smallest and simplest pavilions, but one of the most effective.

The focal point is a long white cloud raining water on to a magnificent 1.8 tonne block of raw pounamu. The Japanese - for whom stones have great significance - flock to stroke it.

Behind the stone a giant video screen records a mythical bird flying through the islands and seasons of New Zealand, painting a picture of a remote and beautiful land, populated by a diverse and friendly people.

For those who are interested, an interactive area allows them to find out more.

Compared with other pavilions it is tranquil, unhurried and relaxing, a place where people seem inclined to loiter.

The content was deliberately kept simple, says pavilion director Michael Pattison. "They told us that on average, people would stay here for seven minutes so we tried for something that would get through in that time."

It has worked, judging by those I spoke to, whose view was summed up by my guide: "Very small but very nice".

While I was waiting to go up in the Jama Wonder Wheel the manager came over to say: "New Zealand pavilion very good. Big stone important to Maori. Very beautiful."

Another sign of its appeal is that attendance, which expo organisers expected to be between 15,000 and 20,000 a day, has averaged more than 20,000 and on some days has topped 30,000.

New Zealand's kapa haka groups have also made an impact. My expo escort couldn't remember what the Australians or Americans had offered in the performance arena but immediately recalled New Zealand's "Maori dance" as "very exciting".

New Zealand doesn't always take part in world expos but did so this time because Prime Minister Helen Clark - who visited a few days before I did - felt Japan was too important for us to miss.

Pattison says the idea was to show you can have a credible presence without it having to cost the earth.

Are we getting enough bang for our bucks? The verdict should be left with a young Japanese man I met in the bathhouse of the Ninna-ji Temple guesthouse. As we relaxed in the hotwater of the onsen he asked, "USA?"

"No. New Zealand."

"Ah. New Zealand."

Suddenly, his eyes lit up.

"Aaaaaah. New Zealand. Expo. Very green. I like to go."