The LUX Belle Mare, a luxury resort on the east coast of Mauritius. Photo / Supplied
Tired of Thailand? Bored with Bali? Fed up with Fiji? Sick of Samoa? Mauritius is a tropical island destination with it all and it's more affordable and accessible than you may think, writes Christine Retschlag.
I am standing in a Mauritian cave, in the middle of the Indian Ocean, sipping a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.
The cave in question is "La Cave", or the new wine cellar at the LUX Belle Mare, a luxury resort on the east coast of Mauritius.
And, like the rest of the world, the Mauritians have discovered the magic of Marlborough.
This is just one of the surprises of Mauritius, which is more accessible and affordable than you think.
On a Sunday I visit the Flacq Market, which is colourful and chaotic with hawkers; the farmers spruiking their exotic wares; sparkling saris; bling, bowls and bloodied butcher shops.
I haggle like a pro and manage to get a good quality cashmere scarf from India for $20, and a locally-produced beach smock with intricate crochet for $30.
And that's all part of the Mauritian magic of the LUX Belle Mare, and its nearby sister property SALT of Palmar, which actively encourage connection with the community.
Days earlier, I have left the SALT for a guided tour with my resort host. I am in search of Madam Kwok who, rumour has it, is one of the best fortune-tellers on the island.
So revered is this woman that local politicians listen anxiously to her predictions for the country at the beginning of each year.
I ask around the ancient streets of China Town and eventually am lead to Kwok, who at 75, has been predicting the future for 35 years.
She tells me, through my Creole-speaking host, that I am a writer who is happy discovering the world and that I may even meet a Mauritian man. Which, frankly, wouldn't be all that bad, given the laconic lifestyle here.
Amid 100-year-old timber buildings, I discover a hole-in-the-wall shop selling huge bowls of fragrant Chinese chicken noodles, which I wash down with a crisp Coca-Cola, in an old-fashioned glass bottle.
The total bill? $5.
I wander the Port Louis Central Market and explore the rows of fresh fruit and vegetables, my eyes as large as the plump olives I encounter.
Onwards I push to visit SALT's hotel potter Janine Espitalier-Noel, who hand-crafted the resort's 950 pieces of crockery.
Not only are guests of the resort encouraged to visit Janine, but they can do a two-hour pottery course with this South African expat and appreciate the work that has gone into making the mugs, plates and dishes.
I am driven past banana plantations and soaring sugarcane crops that rustle in the breeze to meet Nathalie Marot, whose beautiful business supplies SALT with its soaps, hair masks and body scrubs for the guest rooms, as well as massage oils, balms and salt for the spa.
Later, as the sun sets over the bedazzling blend of mosques, temples and churches, I'll drive through a nearby village to encounter Mirella Armance, a mother of nine girls.
She works with the resort to deliver a truly local experience that starts with tempting tastings of the island's renowned rum and ends with a feast of local fare such as a traditional chicken curry.
Back at the LUX Belle Mare, curious Kiwi travellers will adore the quirky features of this upmarket resort that manages to maintain a laidback vibe while delivering superior service.
There's a retro red telephone booth from which you can phone home anywhere in the world, for free, for three minutes; a tree of wishes to which you can pin your hopes; a daily scavenger hunt for a message in a bottle; and a food truck with a tasty twist — it's a 1933 Rolls-Royce.
For those who still have energy to burn, join a bicycle tour of a nearby fishing village hosted by the resort. It is all about sourcing the most fresh and flavoursome produce available.
Even fine dining at Amari by double Michelin-starred Vineet Bhatia need not cost the earth with most meat curries between $32 and $35.
LUX Belle Mare is earthy and entertaining, like the Mauritians who inhabit this Indian Ocean island, and who are an eclectic mix of Muslims, Christians and Buddhists.
This former French and then British colony before it gained independence in 1968, has long lured immigrants from Africa, India, China and France, and you'll see a hedonistic hodge-podge of influences everywhere on this tiny island which measures 80km from north to south and 60km from east to west.
At LUX Belle Mare's K Bar, taste a beer flight and sip on four kinds of brew: a blonde, a national amber ale, a Belgian wheat beer and the locally-produce Phoenix.
When it's in stock, guests can also sample the Cuvee Luxe, a coffee-based beer brewed especially for LUX Belle Mare.
Perch at the bar, feast on mussels from Madagascar or Mauritius when they are in season, and sip on an old-style wooded chardonnay from The Lux Collective's Scrucap range made from imported barrels of fair-trade varieties from South Africa and bottled locally.
In the yawning foyer you'll find Cafe LUX, where they roast their own beans, which are distributed to LUX properties around the world.
Guests can even partake in a coffee-making experience, in which they will discover that this resort roasts 120kg of beans every day.
Afterwards, sip on the house signature flat white with some perky latte art and indulge in six varieties of unrefined sugar from this island, which is renowned for its sugarcane and rum.
Head to the thatched-roof rum hut by the main pool and you can taste countless types of this Mauritian speciality or, if gin is more your thing, on the other side of the pool, you'll discover a dedicated Gin Bar with drops from around the world.
The 183-room LUX Belle Mare sits on 7ha along what is considered the widest and whitest beach in Mauritius, which is a plus for Kiwi travellers, who often travel the globe only to find a disappointing slice of sand.
And that sums up this delicious Mauritius story. Surprising and oh, so sweet. Just like that rum.
GETTING THERE
New Zealanders will be pleased to discover Mauritius is closer than it looks on the map. Catch a flight from New Zealand to Perth, where you can overnight, staying at the likes of the new QT Perth, which opened last September, and boasts an award-winning restaurant and elegant rooms. qthotelsandresorts.com/perth
From Perth, Mauritius is around an eight-hour flight. Air Mauritius has up to three flights a week from Perth to Mauritius. airmauritius.com
STAYING THERE
Stay at LUX Belle Mare or sister property SALT of Palmar.
This suburb is skipped in favour of flashier spots, but shouldn't be discounted.