NZ Herald
  • Home
  • Latest news
  • Herald NOW
  • Video
  • New Zealand
  • Sport
  • World
  • Business
  • Entertainment
  • Podcasts
  • Quizzes
  • Opinion
  • Lifestyle
  • Travel
  • Viva
  • Weather

Subscriptions

  • Herald Premium
  • Viva Premium
  • The Listener
  • BusinessDesk

Sections

  • Latest news
  • New Zealand
    • All New Zealand
    • Crime
    • Politics
    • Education
    • Open Justice
    • Scam Update
  • Herald NOW
  • On The Up
  • World
    • All World
    • Australia
    • Asia
    • UK
    • United States
    • Middle East
    • Europe
    • Pacific
  • Business
    • All Business
    • MarketsSharesCurrencyCommoditiesStock TakesCrypto
    • Markets with Madison
    • Media Insider
    • Business analysis
    • Personal financeKiwiSaverInterest ratesTaxInvestment
    • EconomyInflationGDPOfficial cash rateEmployment
    • Small business
    • Business reportsMood of the BoardroomProject AucklandSustainable business and financeCapital markets reportAgribusiness reportInfrastructure reportDynamic business
    • Deloitte Top 200 Awards
    • CompaniesAged CareAgribusinessAirlinesBanking and financeConstructionEnergyFreight and logisticsHealthcareManufacturingMedia and MarketingRetailTelecommunicationsTourism
  • Opinion
    • All Opinion
    • Analysis
    • Editorials
    • Business analysis
    • Premium opinion
    • Letters to the editor
  • Politics
  • Sport
    • All Sport
    • OlympicsParalympics
    • RugbySuper RugbyNPCAll BlacksBlack FernsRugby sevensSchool rugby
    • CricketBlack CapsWhite Ferns
    • Racing
    • NetballSilver Ferns
    • LeagueWarriorsNRL
    • FootballWellington PhoenixAuckland FCAll WhitesFootball FernsEnglish Premier League
    • GolfNZ Open
    • MotorsportFormula 1
    • Boxing
    • UFC
    • BasketballNBABreakersTall BlacksTall Ferns
    • Tennis
    • Cycling
    • Athletics
    • SailingAmerica's CupSailGP
    • Rowing
  • Lifestyle
    • All Lifestyle
    • Viva - Food, fashion & beauty
    • Society Insider
    • Royals
    • Sex & relationships
    • Food & drinkRecipesRecipe collectionsRestaurant reviewsRestaurant bookings
    • Health & wellbeing
    • Fashion & beauty
    • Pets & animals
    • The Selection - Shop the trendsShop fashionShop beautyShop entertainmentShop giftsShop home & living
    • Milford's Investing Place
  • Entertainment
    • All Entertainment
    • TV
    • MoviesMovie reviews
    • MusicMusic reviews
    • BooksBook reviews
    • Culture
    • ReviewsBook reviewsMovie reviewsMusic reviewsRestaurant reviews
  • Travel
    • All Travel
    • News
    • New ZealandNorthlandAucklandWellingtonCanterburyOtago / QueenstownNelson-TasmanBest NZ beaches
    • International travelAustraliaPacific IslandsEuropeUKUSAAfricaAsia
    • Rail holidays
    • Cruise holidays
    • Ski holidays
    • Luxury travel
    • Adventure travel
  • Kāhu Māori news
  • Environment
    • All Environment
    • Our Green Future
  • Talanoa Pacific news
  • Property
    • All Property
    • Property Insider
    • Interest rates tracker
    • Residential property listings
    • Commercial property listings
  • Health
  • Technology
    • All Technology
    • AI
    • Social media
  • Rural
    • All Rural
    • Dairy farming
    • Sheep & beef farming
    • Horticulture
    • Animal health
    • Rural business
    • Rural life
    • Rural technology
    • Opinion
    • Audio & podcasts
  • Weather forecasts
    • All Weather forecasts
    • Kaitaia
    • Whangārei
    • Dargaville
    • Auckland
    • Thames
    • Tauranga
    • Hamilton
    • Whakatāne
    • Rotorua
    • Tokoroa
    • Te Kuiti
    • Taumaranui
    • Taupō
    • Gisborne
    • New Plymouth
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Dannevirke
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Levin
    • Paraparaumu
    • Masterton
    • Wellington
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Blenheim
    • Westport
    • Reefton
    • Kaikōura
    • Greymouth
    • Hokitika
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
    • Wānaka
    • Oamaru
    • Queenstown
    • Dunedin
    • Gore
    • Invercargill
  • Meet the journalists
  • Promotions & competitions
  • OneRoof property listings
  • Driven car news

Puzzles & Quizzes

  • Puzzles
    • All Puzzles
    • Sudoku
    • Code Cracker
    • Crosswords
    • Cryptic crossword
    • Wordsearch
  • Quizzes
    • All Quizzes
    • Morning quiz
    • Afternoon quiz
    • Sports quiz

Regions

  • Northland
    • All Northland
    • Far North
    • Kaitaia
    • Kerikeri
    • Kaikohe
    • Bay of Islands
    • Whangarei
    • Dargaville
    • Kaipara
    • Mangawhai
  • Auckland
  • Waikato
    • All Waikato
    • Hamilton
    • Coromandel & Hauraki
    • Matamata & Piako
    • Cambridge
    • Te Awamutu
    • Tokoroa & South Waikato
    • Taupō & Tūrangi
  • Bay of Plenty
    • All Bay of Plenty
    • Katikati
    • Tauranga
    • Mount Maunganui
    • Pāpāmoa
    • Te Puke
    • Whakatāne
  • Rotorua
  • Hawke's Bay
    • All Hawke's Bay
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Havelock North
    • Central Hawke's Bay
    • Wairoa
  • Taranaki
    • All Taranaki
    • Stratford
    • New Plymouth
    • Hāwera
  • Manawatū - Whanganui
    • All Manawatū - Whanganui
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Manawatū
    • Tararua
    • Horowhenua
  • Wellington
    • All Wellington
    • Kapiti
    • Wairarapa
    • Upper Hutt
    • Lower Hutt
  • Nelson & Tasman
    • All Nelson & Tasman
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Tasman
  • Marlborough
  • West Coast
  • Canterbury
    • All Canterbury
    • Kaikōura
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
  • Otago
    • All Otago
    • Oamaru
    • Dunedin
    • Balclutha
    • Alexandra
    • Queenstown
    • Wanaka
  • Southland
    • All Southland
    • Invercargill
    • Gore
    • Stewart Island
  • Gisborne

Media

  • Video
    • All Video
    • NZ news video
    • Herald NOW
    • Business news video
    • Politics news video
    • Sport video
    • World news video
    • Lifestyle video
    • Entertainment video
    • Travel video
    • Markets with Madison
    • Kea Kids news
  • Podcasts
    • All Podcasts
    • The Front Page
    • On the Tiles
    • Ask me Anything
    • The Little Things
  • Cartoons
  • Photo galleries
  • Today's Paper - E-editions
  • Photo sales
  • Classifieds

NZME Network

  • Advertise with NZME
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • BusinessDesk
  • Newstalk ZB
  • Sunlive
  • ZM
  • The Hits
  • Coast
  • Radio Hauraki
  • The Alternative Commentary Collective
  • Gold
  • Flava
  • iHeart Radio
  • Hokonui
  • Radio Wanaka
  • iHeartCountry New Zealand
  • Restaurant Hub
  • NZME Events

SubscribeSign In
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Home / Travel

Muscat: The sultan's hospitality

NZ Herald
6 Nov, 2014 01:00 AM4 mins to read

Subscribe to listen

Access to Herald Premium articles require a Premium subscription. Subscribe now to listen.
Already a subscriber?  Sign in here

Listening to articles is free for open-access content—explore other articles or learn more about text-to-speech.
‌
Save

    Share this article

No expense was spared in the creation of the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque in Muscat. Photo / Thinkstock

No expense was spared in the creation of the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque in Muscat. Photo / Thinkstock

In Oman's capital, a devotee of Islam tells Jim Eagles why violent zealots — terrorists — are giving the world a bad opinion of the faith and its message of peace.

Just inside the entrance to the vast precinct of Muscat's majestic Grand Mosque sat a woman, enveloped in the black folds of her burqa, only her beautiful sparkling black eyes visible.

"Good morning," she said. "Would you like to know about Islam? A lot of people don't understand what Islam really stands for. You can come in and have coffee and dates, and we can discuss what is the truth."

We followed her inside and she took off her face covering to reveal - in what I thought was an interesting comment on the effect of the burqa - a much more homely face than those eyes had led me to expect.

Unfortunately, it turned out that the woman whose job it was to make the coffee had not yet arrived but it was pleasantly cool, there were dates and an extensive collection of books about the Prophet Mohammed and the religion he founded.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Our hostess quoted several verses from the Koran to demonstrate that Islam was a religion of "peace, mercy and forgiveness and does not support terrorism".

When I started to choose a booklet she recommended one entitled "A brief illustrated guide to understanding Islam".

I followed her advice and she drew my attention to a chapter headed "What does Islam say about terrorism?", which concluded: "The vast majority of [Muslims] have nothing to do with the violent events some have associated with Muslims. If an individual Muslim were to commit an act of terrorism this person would be guilty of violating the laws of Islam."

It was an encouraging introduction to Islam Omani-style (following the Ibadi school, founded by the great Omani sage Jabir ibn Zaid al-Azdi, rather than being Sunni or Shia).

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Certainly, as we wandered round the mosque afterwards, the atmosphere - as in every other mosque I have visited around the world - was peaceful and friendly.

It was built by the oil-rich Sultan Qaboos, absolute ruler of Oman, as a gift to his people and, clearly, no expense has been spared.

Abu, the ex-army sergeant-major who showed us around, poured out impressive statistics. The main chandelier in the men's prayer hall is European crystal, weighs eight tonnes and has 8112 lamps. The 4000sq m carpet took 600 women in the Iranian city of Isfahan four years to make.

The complex is big enough that on important religious occasions 20,000 people can pray in the halls and courtyards. The men's prayer hall alone can accommodate 10,000 though, Abu added, "We are squeezed together very tightly."

Discover more

Opinion

Oman: Coastal city's boat-building heritage endures

19 Mar 02:45 AM
Opinion

Oman: Magical moments in the desert

05 Apr 12:00 AM
Travel

Oman: Ships of slave city fit for a sultan

19 Jun 05:30 PM
Travel

Five cool things to do in Oman

04 Dec 02:00 AM

The much smaller women's hall can take 1750.

Yet, despite its size and splendour, this grand mosque is less ostentatious than other modern mosques I have seen, partly because the dominant colours are muted browns and creams and partly, I think, because of the extensive, tranquil gardens.

"The Sultan likes those colours," Abu explained. "They are the same colours he has used in other buildings.

I saw these later when we visited the massive palace in Muscat - one of nine around the country - which Abu said was "only used for receptions for foreign visitors, the Sultan does not live there".

Creams and browns were even more obvious in the newly opened Royal Opera House built because "the Sultan learned to like opera when he lived in England for many years. He has very English tastes".

Only partially. There's no doubt that during Sultan Qaboos' 42-year reign Oman has become a very welcoming part of the often turbulent Middle East, with excellent infrastructure and good education and health services.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

But democracy is not, so far, one of the English ideas to have been adopted. And so far Oman seems to have missed the upheavals of the Arab Spring.

I asked several locals if they thought that might change and the response was probably best summed up by one man, "The Sultan has no son and he is over 70 years old.

"Under the constitution, when he dies a successor must be chosen by the Al Bu Said family council.

"That is when things could change. People keep quiet because they respect him. But Arabs are learning to like democracy."

CHECKLIST

Getting there: Etihad Airways' partnership with Air New Zealand connects from Auckland, via Australia, to Abu Dhabi.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Further information: See omantourism.gov.om.

Save

    Share this article

Latest from Travel

Travel

Kiwi chef reveals most surprising foodie region in Aotearoa

21 Jun 06:00 PM
Travel

Auckland Airport flights delayed or cancelled due to fog

20 Jun 09:41 PM
Travel

Stylish, central and affordable? This Waikiki hotel may have it all

19 Jun 10:00 PM

One pass, ten snowy adventures

sponsored
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Latest from Travel

Kiwi chef reveals most surprising foodie region in Aotearoa

Kiwi chef reveals most surprising foodie region in Aotearoa

21 Jun 06:00 PM

The chef chats to Herald Travel about unforgettable foodie experiences in Aotearoa.

Auckland Airport flights delayed or cancelled due to fog

Auckland Airport flights delayed or cancelled due to fog

20 Jun 09:41 PM
Stylish, central and affordable? This Waikiki hotel may have it all

Stylish, central and affordable? This Waikiki hotel may have it all

19 Jun 10:00 PM
Paris local reveals the underrated neighbourhood you won’t see on Instagram

Paris local reveals the underrated neighbourhood you won’t see on Instagram

19 Jun 06:00 AM
Your Fiordland experience, levelled up
sponsored

Your Fiordland experience, levelled up

NZ Herald
  • About NZ Herald
  • Meet the journalists
  • Newsletters
  • Classifieds
  • Help & support
  • Contact us
  • House rules
  • Privacy Policy
  • Terms of use
  • Competition terms & conditions
  • Our use of AI
Subscriber Services
  • NZ Herald e-editions
  • Daily puzzles & quizzes
  • Manage your digital subscription
  • Manage your print subscription
  • Subscribe to the NZ Herald newspaper
  • Subscribe to Herald Premium
  • Gift a subscription
  • Subscriber FAQs
  • Subscription terms & conditions
  • Promotions and subscriber benefits
NZME Network
  • The New Zealand Herald
  • The Northland Age
  • The Northern Advocate
  • Waikato Herald
  • Bay of Plenty Times
  • Rotorua Daily Post
  • Hawke's Bay Today
  • Whanganui Chronicle
  • Viva
  • NZ Listener
  • Newstalk ZB
  • BusinessDesk
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • iHeart Radio
  • Restaurant Hub
NZME
  • About NZME
  • NZME careers
  • Advertise with NZME
  • Digital self-service advertising
  • Book your classified ad
  • Photo sales
  • NZME Events
  • © Copyright 2025 NZME Publishing Limited
TOP