Fine dining at Cutler & Co, Gertrude St. Photo / Supplied
Fine dining at Cutler & Co, Gertrude St. Photo / Supplied
Hot, quirky and sometimes sophisticated, Gertrude is a Fitzroy food hub attracting a lot of attention, writes Jesse Mulligan.
Gertrude St is no longer poor cousin to the adjoining Brunswick, that famous drawcard for visitors seeking good food just north of Melbourne city. In recent years, Gertrude has become a Fitzroy food destination in its own right, with a mix of big names and spunky newcomers opening up deliciousand progressive new restaurants on the strip. Here are some great places to eat and drink on Gertrude.
BREAKFAST Mighty Boy has been around a while, but the menu was transformed in May by the arrival of a soft-spoken Kiwi chef who apprenticed at The Commons in Takapuna. His breakfast menu is Asian-inspired and flavour punching, including the best scrambled eggs I've ever eaten, served up with dried, fresh and pickled chilli on a slice of ciabatta designed to soak up the spicy, eggy juices. For something lighter, try the grain-free, dairy-free granola with silken tofu in the place of yoghurt - it works! Remember to order a double shot with your coffee - despite the New Zealand influence it's still not standard in Melbourne cafes.
Birdman Eating is legendary in local circles for its eggs baked in a metal skillet, reputedly good enough to create weekend queues of hungover Melburnians desperate for a comfort brunch. The room is dark and simple, and the menu offers slightly quirky takes on the classic brunch line-up.
Archie's is warm and inviting, the perfect place for coffee on a cold Melbourne morning. The owner is a Kiwi and so is the chef, whose offbeat menu works well with the casually friendly service. There are all sorts of influences on the menu, but you're always safe in Melbourne opting for Middle Eastern - Za'atar eggs with chickpea chips, burnt eggplant, sumac yoghurt and pomegranate looks particularly good.
LUNCH Belle's Hot Chicken is inspired by a Japanese philosophy of doing one thing well. Chef Morgan McGlone, who is, yes, a New Zealander, spent time at the helm of Husk, a restaurant in Charleston famous for its Southern food. McGlone invites you to choose a cut of chicken and a spice level (we didn't quite have the confidence for "Really F****n Hot") then deep fries it to moist, crunchy perfection and serves it with your choice of mayonnaise-based cooling sauce. There are some good sides available too but it's all about the chook, and a carefully crafted list of natural wines created to complement the "dude food" which has taken Melbourne by storm.
The Everleigh was voted one of the top 50 bars on Earth. Photo / Supplied
DINNER Next to Belle's is sister restaurant Bar Clarine, a small space which started as an informal drinks area for the chicken chefs before eventually transforming into a wine bar and casual eatery for allcomers. Though also inspired by some classics of the American South it's a lighter menu, perfect for a pre-dinner nibble or as part of a culinary pub crawl.
If you're looking for something really special, Cutler and Co is the answer. The fine dining offering of Melbourne chef Andrew McConnell, it offers a tasting menu and a la carte options, with a sommelier on hand to help you with the perfect wine match. The food moves from deliciously simple appetisers such as blistered green Spanish Padron peppers to complex entrees - a mushroom congee with golden chicken broth, abalone and scallop - to deeply rich main courses. I had a beef short rib braised overnight and served on a bright green oyster and nettle puree. If you're going to make a wedding proposal, do it here - just try not to let the ring get shown up by the food.
DESSERT It's not technically on Gertrude St but Messina does such good gelato you'll forgive me for sending you around the corner to Smith St in search of it. You can taste as many gelati as you like, from classic flavours such as chocolate sorbet to more adventurous options like salted coconut and mango. But if you ask my wife, a seasoned expert in these matters, you shouldn't look past the tiramisu gelato: the best icecream she says she's ever eaten.
COCKTAILS Above Belle's Hot Chicken is The Everleigh, voted one of the top 50 bars on Earth and an ideal place to conclude the evening's activities, or kick start them. The room is retro cool and, it should be said, extremely dark. Try to be open-minded about what you drink - the bartenders are happy to chat to you about what you're in the mood for before creating something just for you from the hundreds of ingredients they curate behind the bar.
CHECKLIST
Getting there: Qantas flies daily between Auckland and Melbourne.
Accommodation: Modern and luxurious, Crown Towers is centrally located in Melbourne.
