KEY POINTS:
There's a downside to holidaying in countryside that orbits a big city. The creep of suburbia, a shell of concrete stretching ever further over the land, soulless McMansions where once there were paddocks and trees. And there are parts of rural Victoria, that rub shoulders with sophisticated big
sister Melbourne, certainly showing signs of that.
The upside is that other things beside concrete radiate out from the big city - like amazing food to accompany locally grown wines, passionate artists and craftspeople, interesting shopping and entertainment options to suit anyone.
Melbourne is richly served by its rural neighbours, which all have very distinct characters.
High above the city are the leafy Dandenong Ranges, a favourite retreat since the Victorian era when genteel types would go there to take tea and escape the summer heat.
Pointing its finger into the Indian Ocean is the charming Mornington Peninsula, famous for the multicoloured beach huts and its residents' love of the arts. And, reeking of fine wine and big money, is the ever-popular Yarra Valley.
In the Yarra they've been growing vines since the 1830s and they take it seriously. The larger vineyards, such as Yering Station, have practically built temples to grape juice, vast high-ceilinged edifices for dining and wine tasting. For $98 you and I can get a glimpse into this moneyed world on an Australian Wine Co tour and learn a little bit about swirling, sniffing and tasting along the way.
The tour stops at four wineries including champagne house Moet & Chandon's Aussie outpost, Domaine Chandon, where they'll show you how they put the bubbles in the wine, and the rustic Yering Farm where tastings are held in a 120-year-old corrugated iron barn.
At the last count there were more than 55 wineries in the region and many have diversified to make them more interesting to visitors, adding attractions such as concerts, art galleries and farmers' markets.
There's a shiny newness about much of the Yarra, despite its history. Much of it feels very orderly and large-scale. To find a more chilled-out Aussie spirit and a more shambling sort of charm, you have to follow Victoria's wine trail all the way to the Mornington Peninsula.
There, anyone with children would be well-advised to stop at Montalto Vineyard and Olive Grove. It's blessed with a big lawn for the kids to tear about on while a civilised adult lunch is taken on the deck. Afterwards check out owner Wendy Mitchell's kitchen gardens or take a stroll down the boardwalk through the wetlands. From February to April the Mitchells hold a sculpture competition and many of the exhibits are left dotted through the property, and no one's going to complain if the kids climb on them. It's that sort of place.
Down the road a bit there's a man called Arthur Ross who spends his life trimming hedges. It turns out the hedge maze is a favourite art form on the Peninsula and the one at Ashcombe Gardens is the biggest. This is an entirely legitimate way to lose the kids who can expend any remaining energy charging down the kilometres of narrow maze corridors and bouncing off the springy clipped cypress trees. Arthur reckons it's impossible to get really lost but the hedge is 3m high and 2m thick so the claustrophobic may feel more comfortable among the lower-growing shrubs in the Lavender Labyrinth or the Circular Rose Maze.
If the littlies are tuckered out, you'll be sure of a less smashing time at the nearby Gordon Studio Glassblowers in Red Hill. The Gordons are one of Australia's most celebrated glassblowing families and you can watch them at work in their studio. There's something magical about seeing a molten lump of glass being turned into a beautiful coloured bowl or vase. It's a kind of alchemy.
Art, wine, food... admittedly these are all experiences you could have right here in New Zealand. For a snake around your neck though or a close encounter with a kangaroo, you do need to go to Australia.
Within easy reach of Melbourne there are some fantastic wildlife parks dedicated to native species. The Healesville Sanctuary is set in gum trees and wattles in the foothills of the Yarra Ranges. Here they have pretty much the full complement of indigenous creatures, with more than 200 species from Tasmanian devils to wombats and reptiles. You can't cuddle the koalas anymore because apparently they don't like it, but you can stroke a stuffed one at the taxidermy kiosk.
Otherwise the "meet the keeper" sessions are a highlight - particularly the bird of prey show.
The strong of stomach can also head to the veterinary care centre where it's possible to observe a surgery or post-mortem examination.
Personally, when it comes to animals I'm all about the cuddle not the cut, so I preferred the intimacy of Moonlit Sanctuary on the Mornington Peninsula. Park founder Michael Johnson bought this 10ha property because he's obsessed with conservation and wanted to give people the opportunity to view Australia's mostly nocturnal animals at the time they're most active. So he takes lantern-lit evening groups round the sanctuary, spotlighting creatures and sharing his knowledge.
Daytime tours are great too and you really do get up close and personal with the animals. I especially liked wearing Monty the python round my neck like a pashmina. I also got to pat the dingoes, was pecked by a parrot, stroked a furry glider, fed some kangaroos and hung out in a koala compound watching the little fellas sleep.
As befitting a region where they seem obsessed with food and wine, even at Moonlit Sanctuary they offer you a tasting experience, a chance to sample some traditional Victoria bush tucker. And yes it's all vegetarian of course. Monty the python can rest easy.
Nicky Pellegrino flew to Melbourne courtesy of Tourism Victoria
