A relaxed weekend exploring McLaren Vale’s markets, wineries and beaches just minutes from Adelaide. Photo / Destination McLaren Vale
Just 45 minutes from Adelaide hides a perfect wine region, writes Newstalk ZB radio host Roman Travers.
South Australia is blessed with a plethora of beautiful destinations and activities. The key simply lies in selecting those that make for fantastic memories and relaxation.
I chose to spend my weekend in McLaren Vale. It’s only a 45-minute drive from Adelaide, and like any road trip in unfamiliar territory, that 45 minutes can be extended with diversions into other undiscovered delights, like The Onkaparinga River National Park, or a paddle off one of the many great beaches within The Gulf of Saint Vincent.
I’m up early this morning, joining the other early birds staying in the heart of Adelaide, at The Sofitel Hotel. Treat yourself to breakfast here, at Garcon Bleu restaurant. The staff are excellent and their leader, Gogo, greets everyone with a big smile and a hearty ‘bonjour’ along with the rare ability of remembering everyone’s names. Sara, my waitress, is from Colombia and doubles as a fine exponent for South Australia. The food on offer here is superb, with all you’d expect to have on the breakfast menu of a great hotel.
If you’re in Adelaide overnight, book in for Fugazzi, just around the corner on Leigh St. Fugazzi is a New York-inspired Italo-American bar and restaurant with fabulous ambience and decor, along with a mind-blowing wine list and a friendly sommelier to back it up.
Leaving the CBD for the farmers market in Willunga was a piece of cake, and I’m soon embraced by the rolling vineyards of McLaren Vale. The whole region isn’t unlike what you’d see in Hawkes Bay or Wairarapa, just on a grandiose scale. Even though you’re on holiday, you’ll want to hit the Willunga Farmers Market early in the morning. This well-established farmer’s market boasts a rich range of everything from garden produce, honey, charcuterie, and superb breads, to coffee and eggs. There’s a good mix of tourists and locals here, a testament to the ongoing, consistent quality on offer.
I get yarning with Jim Casey at Little Acre Foods. His toasted sandwiches are causing some serious pedestrian traffic issues as he deftly chats to me, takes orders and mans the sandwich press. He knocks out about 200 every farmers’ market morning. Jim trained as a chef and then got into making fabulous pates 14 years ago. Through the years, people’s favourite hasn’t changed (the classic duck liver pate always wins out), but what has changed is how curious people are. Casey tells me more of his customers want to know more about what’s in the products, what additives are there – and what do they do. They ask where all the inputs are outputted from, and who’s been involved with the process. Not only can he answer all those questions, but does so proudly, knowing Little Acre Foods is connected to McLaren Vale in every regard.
I’ve driven back into Willunga, just a minute up the road from Willunga High School where the Saturday farmers market is held. It’s a cute wee town with something for everyone. From Hither and Yon, a cellar door in Willunga’s old butcher shop, to Willunga Glass Studio, where you can buy glass works from over 20 local artists. I was happy to wander the main road and take in the sights of the very fine early 1800’s limestone, slate and ironstone architecture, along with dozens of prolific, vibrant and robust rose bushes, proudly adorning the front gardens of historic homes and shops. If you didn’t satiate your desires at the farmers market, Willunga has a great selection of cafes for you to peruse.
It’s another short drive to Mitolo Wines, where I’m heading for lunch at one of their two restaurants, Little Wolf Osteria. I’m glad to sit inside as the midday heat is already up to 27C. The grounds here are stunning, and it’s lovely to watch staff setting up for an afternoon wedding under the gum trees. The Italian wine varietals here are unlike any I’ve ever seen, including Purduto Pecorino, Scylla Nero D’Avola and Trovato Fiano. I’m told they’re not new varietals – just new to Australia. I take a gamble and let the staff recommend all the tastings and all the food as I know I’ll be here for a few hours, and I want to try their best. The highlight for me is the Abrolhos Island Scallops and their decadent ravioli. There were two wines I loved: The Jester Rose, soft of the palate with a hint of sun-ripe strawberries, along with their Of The Wind Chardonnay, reminding me never to say no to an excellent Chard.
At one point, the head chef, Lino Sauro, comes out for a chat. He is a true rock star with a string of accolades in his apron pockets. Mitolo Wines is worth the long lunch, and they did well in scoring Lino as their head chef. As I drive away, past the throng of wedding seating under the gum trees, I watch the millions of bright green vine leaves, catching the light breeze and nodding their approval.
The afternoon is a scorcher and I’m eager to take my first swim of spring. Local intel points me towards Silver Sands Beach, and since nothing is that far away in McLaren Vale, I’m throwing myself into the Gulf of Saint Vincent at Silver Sands Beach within 15 minutes. The waves here are gentle and kind, like you’re in a giant lake, rather than an ocean. There’s plenty of room on the beach too, so it’s easy to avoid that feeling of being involved in a constant land acquisition with boundaries defined by towels and beach toys. Reluctant for this to end, I lean back on my Budget Rental car, close my eyes and let the warm setting spring sun seep deeply into my winter skin and slowly dry me.
MCLAREN VALE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA
GETTING THERE
Air New Zealand operates direct flights to Adelaide year-round from Auckland and seasonally (October-March) from Christchurch.
DETAILS
Willunga Farmers Market | willungafarmersmarket.com.au
McLaren Vale | mclarenvale.info
The journalist travelled courtesy of Air New Zealand and South Australia Tourism.