NZ Herald
  • Home
  • Latest news
  • Herald NOW
  • Video
  • New Zealand
  • Sport
  • World
  • Business
  • Entertainment
  • Podcasts
  • Quizzes
  • Opinion
  • Lifestyle
  • Travel
  • Viva
  • Weather

Subscriptions

  • Herald Premium
  • Viva Premium
  • The Listener
  • BusinessDesk

Sections

  • Latest news
  • New Zealand
    • All New Zealand
    • Crime
    • Politics
    • Education
    • Open Justice
    • Scam Update
  • Herald NOW
  • On The Up
  • World
    • All World
    • Australia
    • Asia
    • UK
    • United States
    • Middle East
    • Europe
    • Pacific
  • Business
    • All Business
    • MarketsSharesCurrencyCommoditiesStock TakesCrypto
    • Markets with Madison
    • Media Insider
    • Business analysis
    • Personal financeKiwiSaverInterest ratesTaxInvestment
    • EconomyInflationGDPOfficial cash rateEmployment
    • Small business
    • Business reportsMood of the BoardroomProject AucklandSustainable business and financeCapital markets reportAgribusiness reportInfrastructure reportDynamic business
    • Deloitte Top 200 Awards
    • CompaniesAged CareAgribusinessAirlinesBanking and financeConstructionEnergyFreight and logisticsHealthcareManufacturingMedia and MarketingRetailTelecommunicationsTourism
  • Opinion
    • All Opinion
    • Analysis
    • Editorials
    • Business analysis
    • Premium opinion
    • Letters to the editor
  • Politics
  • Sport
    • All Sport
    • OlympicsParalympics
    • RugbySuper RugbyNPCAll BlacksBlack FernsRugby sevensSchool rugby
    • CricketBlack CapsWhite Ferns
    • Racing
    • NetballSilver Ferns
    • LeagueWarriorsNRL
    • FootballWellington PhoenixAuckland FCAll WhitesFootball FernsEnglish Premier League
    • GolfNZ Open
    • MotorsportFormula 1
    • Boxing
    • UFC
    • BasketballNBABreakersTall BlacksTall Ferns
    • Tennis
    • Cycling
    • Athletics
    • SailingAmerica's CupSailGP
    • Rowing
  • Lifestyle
    • All Lifestyle
    • Viva - Food, fashion & beauty
    • Society Insider
    • Royals
    • Sex & relationships
    • Food & drinkRecipesRecipe collectionsRestaurant reviewsRestaurant bookings
    • Health & wellbeing
    • Fashion & beauty
    • Pets & animals
    • The Selection - Shop the trendsShop fashionShop beautyShop entertainmentShop giftsShop home & living
    • Milford's Investing Place
  • Entertainment
    • All Entertainment
    • TV
    • MoviesMovie reviews
    • MusicMusic reviews
    • BooksBook reviews
    • Culture
    • ReviewsBook reviewsMovie reviewsMusic reviewsRestaurant reviews
  • Travel
    • All Travel
    • News
    • New ZealandNorthlandAucklandWellingtonCanterburyOtago / QueenstownNelson-TasmanBest NZ beaches
    • International travelAustraliaPacific IslandsEuropeUKUSAAfricaAsia
    • Rail holidays
    • Cruise holidays
    • Ski holidays
    • Luxury travel
    • Adventure travel
  • Kāhu Māori news
  • Environment
    • All Environment
    • Our Green Future
  • Talanoa Pacific news
  • Property
    • All Property
    • Property Insider
    • Interest rates tracker
    • Residential property listings
    • Commercial property listings
  • Health
  • Technology
    • All Technology
    • AI
    • Social media
  • Rural
    • All Rural
    • Dairy farming
    • Sheep & beef farming
    • Horticulture
    • Animal health
    • Rural business
    • Rural life
    • Rural technology
    • Opinion
    • Audio & podcasts
  • Weather forecasts
    • All Weather forecasts
    • Kaitaia
    • Whangārei
    • Dargaville
    • Auckland
    • Thames
    • Tauranga
    • Hamilton
    • Whakatāne
    • Rotorua
    • Tokoroa
    • Te Kuiti
    • Taumaranui
    • Taupō
    • Gisborne
    • New Plymouth
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Dannevirke
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Levin
    • Paraparaumu
    • Masterton
    • Wellington
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Blenheim
    • Westport
    • Reefton
    • Kaikōura
    • Greymouth
    • Hokitika
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
    • Wānaka
    • Oamaru
    • Queenstown
    • Dunedin
    • Gore
    • Invercargill
  • Meet the journalists
  • Promotions & competitions
  • OneRoof property listings
  • Driven car news

Puzzles & Quizzes

  • Puzzles
    • All Puzzles
    • Sudoku
    • Code Cracker
    • Crosswords
    • Cryptic crossword
    • Wordsearch
  • Quizzes
    • All Quizzes
    • Morning quiz
    • Afternoon quiz
    • Sports quiz

Regions

  • Northland
    • All Northland
    • Far North
    • Kaitaia
    • Kerikeri
    • Kaikohe
    • Bay of Islands
    • Whangarei
    • Dargaville
    • Kaipara
    • Mangawhai
  • Auckland
  • Waikato
    • All Waikato
    • Hamilton
    • Coromandel & Hauraki
    • Matamata & Piako
    • Cambridge
    • Te Awamutu
    • Tokoroa & South Waikato
    • Taupō & Tūrangi
  • Bay of Plenty
    • All Bay of Plenty
    • Katikati
    • Tauranga
    • Mount Maunganui
    • Pāpāmoa
    • Te Puke
    • Whakatāne
  • Rotorua
  • Hawke's Bay
    • All Hawke's Bay
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Havelock North
    • Central Hawke's Bay
    • Wairoa
  • Taranaki
    • All Taranaki
    • Stratford
    • New Plymouth
    • Hāwera
  • Manawatū - Whanganui
    • All Manawatū - Whanganui
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Manawatū
    • Tararua
    • Horowhenua
  • Wellington
    • All Wellington
    • Kapiti
    • Wairarapa
    • Upper Hutt
    • Lower Hutt
  • Nelson & Tasman
    • All Nelson & Tasman
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Tasman
  • Marlborough
  • West Coast
  • Canterbury
    • All Canterbury
    • Kaikōura
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
  • Otago
    • All Otago
    • Oamaru
    • Dunedin
    • Balclutha
    • Alexandra
    • Queenstown
    • Wanaka
  • Southland
    • All Southland
    • Invercargill
    • Gore
    • Stewart Island
  • Gisborne

Media

  • Video
    • All Video
    • NZ news video
    • Herald NOW
    • Business news video
    • Politics news video
    • Sport video
    • World news video
    • Lifestyle video
    • Entertainment video
    • Travel video
    • Markets with Madison
    • Kea Kids news
  • Podcasts
    • All Podcasts
    • The Front Page
    • On the Tiles
    • Ask me Anything
    • The Little Things
  • Cartoons
  • Photo galleries
  • Today's Paper - E-editions
  • Photo sales
  • Classifieds

NZME Network

  • Advertise with NZME
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • BusinessDesk
  • Newstalk ZB
  • Sunlive
  • ZM
  • The Hits
  • Coast
  • Radio Hauraki
  • The Alternative Commentary Collective
  • Gold
  • Flava
  • iHeart Radio
  • Hokonui
  • Radio Wanaka
  • iHeartCountry New Zealand
  • Restaurant Hub
  • NZME Events

SubscribeSign In
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Home / Travel

Maui: Greeting the dawn on island of the rising sun

NZ Herald
10 Jul, 2009 03:00 AM5 mins to read

Subscribe to listen

Access to Herald Premium articles require a Premium subscription. Subscribe now to listen.
Already a subscriber?  Sign in here

Listening to articles is free for open-access content—explore other articles or learn more about text-to-speech.
‌
Save

    Share this article

Sunrises are spectacular on the volcanic peak of Haleakala in Hawaii. Photo / Supplied

Sunrises are spectacular on the volcanic peak of Haleakala in Hawaii. Photo / Supplied

Even on a foggy day, Maui is a natural wonderland, writes Jim Eagles.

As sunrise approached, the layer of cloud spread like a tablecloth across the 3055m high volcanic peak of Haleakala turned pink, then orange, then a bright flaming red streaked with veins of glowing gold.

Soon it looked as though the vast crater in front of us was once more spewing forth red-hot lava and setting the land ablaze.

This peak is the spot where, according to Hawaiian legend, the trickster demi-god Maui lassoed the sun with a rope made from his sister's hair and lengthened the day by forcing it to travel more slowly across the sky.

So important is that tradition, the island itself is called Maui and the name of the great peak on which we were standing means "house of the sun". And the centrepiece of Maui's Kahalui Airport is a statue of the demi-god himself holding the sun in his mighty hands.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

When the orange globe of the sun finally appeared above the glowing volcanic horizon on Haleakala and edged slowly upwards, it was easy to imagine it might indeed be held in place by a great rope ...

At least I know that is what the sunrise looks like most of the time, because I saw it on a DVD playing in the Haleakala National Park headquarters.

But, unfortunately, the day I rose from my bed at 2am to make the pilgrimage to Haleakala, the peak was covered by a great bank of fog that even Hawaii's house-trained sun couldn't penetrate.

We could sense the sun must be approaching because the viewing point on the crater rim, where dozens of eager observers came by bus and car to marvel at the spectacle, grew gradually lighter.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

A park ranger kept spirits up by explaining that while conditions were bad, they often came right very suddenly, and only once or twice a month did the sunrise spectacle not occur.

And luckily for us it was relatively warm at 10C - though still cold by the normal standards of the island - so the thermal blankets most people were swathed in weren't really necessary.

As we waited, the ranger told us more stories about Maui, how he was constantly tricking his brothers out of their catch, and how he fished up Hawaii in much the same way as Maori record him hauling New Zealand from the sea.

At the official sunrise time of 5.41am, another ranger performed a chant of welcome to the sun, saying "maybe it will help him overcome the fog", but although it grew lighter, the orb itself was not to be seen.

Discover more

Travel

Hawaii: Mai tai'd to the bar stool

28 Jul 09:00 PM
Travel

Hawaii: Best of times at boarding school

26 Aug 08:00 PM
Travel

Hawaii: True taste of paradise

25 Feb 11:00 PM
Travel

Hawaii: Twelve Honolulu must dos

30 Jul 12:00 AM

By 6am it was obvious that the performance was not going to occur, so the assembled spectators straggled away.

Still, there was some entertainment to be had.

The drive from sea level to the top of Haleakala, rising over 3000m in 60km, is apparently one of the steepest in the world. For a donation of US$1 ($1.56), the national park people provided a certificate confirming that I had survived "one of the greatest elevation gains in the shortest distance in the world".

Certainly my ears popped on the way up and coming down. Before we started on the upward journey, Bob, our bus driver, crushed a plastic drink bottle and screwed the cap on. By the time we had reached the summit, the drop in air pressure meant the bottle was back to normal. And by the time we got back to the bottom, the bottle was crushed again.

An Indian couple sitting opposite me marvelled at the way their unopened packet of potato chips gradually expanded as we climbed, until by the top it looked like a balloon. Bob said he had known those packets to explode in the thinner air of the summit. "It gave me a heck of a fright."

The top of Haleakala is also the only place the strange silversword plant, ahinahina, is found. Viewed through the fog, its silvery leaves did indeed look very swordlike. Apparently it takes 50 years to mature, flowers once and then dies. Tragic really.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

On a normal clear day there would also be spectacular views from up here and the chance of spotting birds like the Maui parrot bill, several kinds of honeycreepers with long, curved bills and the insect-eating alauahio.

But one thing we could do in the fog was explore the excellent displays in the park headquarters, including the awe-inspiring DVD of what the sunset should have looked like. It was so impressive I watched it twice ... then bought a bookmark carrying one of the stunning photos.

Jim Eagles visited Hawaii as a guest of Air New Zealand and Hawaii Tourism Oceania.

CHECKLIST

Getting there: Air New Zealand flies direct to Honolulu up to three times a week.

Where to stay: The Plantation Inn is a superb bed and breakfast hotel in the heart of the old whaling town of Lahaina.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Kaanapali Beach Hotel is a larger, more modern, family-oriented hotel on the coast.

What to do: Polynesian Adventures run tours to see the Kaleakala sunrise.

Further information: See discoverhawaii.com.

Save

    Share this article

Latest from Travel

Travel

Paris local reveals the underrated neighbourhood you won’t see on Instagram

19 Jun 06:00 AM
Travel

Hate skiing? Try these snow-free winter adventures in NZ instead

19 Jun 06:00 AM
Travel news

New flight route to turn Auckland into China-South America gateway

18 Jun 11:36 PM

One pass, ten snowy adventures

sponsored
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Latest from Travel

Hate skiing? Try these snow-free winter adventures in NZ instead

Hate skiing? Try these snow-free winter adventures in NZ instead

19 Jun 06:00 AM

If you need a break from the slopes or don’t fancy a ski, there’s still a lot to do this.

Paris local reveals the underrated neighbourhood you won’t see on Instagram

Paris local reveals the underrated neighbourhood you won’t see on Instagram

19 Jun 06:00 AM
New flight route to turn Auckland into China-South America gateway

New flight route to turn Auckland into China-South America gateway

18 Jun 11:36 PM
Flight from NZ has windscreen shattered after landing in Brisbane

Flight from NZ has windscreen shattered after landing in Brisbane

18 Jun 10:45 PM
Your Fiordland experience, levelled up
sponsored

Your Fiordland experience, levelled up

NZ Herald
  • About NZ Herald
  • Meet the journalists
  • Newsletters
  • Classifieds
  • Help & support
  • Contact us
  • House rules
  • Privacy Policy
  • Terms of use
  • Competition terms & conditions
  • Our use of AI
Subscriber Services
  • NZ Herald e-editions
  • Daily puzzles & quizzes
  • Manage your digital subscription
  • Manage your print subscription
  • Subscribe to the NZ Herald newspaper
  • Subscribe to Herald Premium
  • Gift a subscription
  • Subscriber FAQs
  • Subscription terms & conditions
  • Promotions and subscriber benefits
NZME Network
  • The New Zealand Herald
  • The Northland Age
  • The Northern Advocate
  • Waikato Herald
  • Bay of Plenty Times
  • Rotorua Daily Post
  • Hawke's Bay Today
  • Whanganui Chronicle
  • Viva
  • NZ Listener
  • Newstalk ZB
  • BusinessDesk
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • iHeart Radio
  • Restaurant Hub
NZME
  • About NZME
  • NZME careers
  • Advertise with NZME
  • Digital self-service advertising
  • Book your classified ad
  • Photo sales
  • NZME Events
  • © Copyright 2025 NZME Publishing Limited
TOP