Mambray Creek: Base camp with emus and kangaroos

Camping at Mambray Creek in Mt Remarkable National Park. Photo / Supplied

The road to Mambray Creek, in South Australia's mid-north, is anything but remarkable. After hours of passing nothing but road-kill, skinny sheep and salt bush, you could be forgiven for turning the car around and heading back to Adelaide.

But if you belong to a family aiming to experience a bit of the real Australia, the one that lies beyond the black stump, this journey is worth seeing through.

Fortunately, by the time you've turned off Port Wakefield Rd, 260km north of Adelaide, and approach Mt Remarkable National Park, the scenery has improved - and the attitude. Teenage sarcasm turns to awe as they spy the wild kangaroos and emus that wander freely through the Mambray Creek campsite.

A magnificent creek runs parallel to the campsite which, depending on the time of year and rainfall, sparkles with life or exposes intriguing rock formations, sunbeds for the goannas.

There's plenty of space between the campsites and each has its own fireplace. Visitors are prohibited from using fallen logs, which often provide homes for wildlife, so the rangers stock the camp with firewood for purchase.

But, if you don't fancy camping, not to worry.

As well as public toilets and solar powered showers with gas heating as back-up, Mambray Creek also offers visitors a home among the gum trees.

At A$65 ($80) a night and sleeping up to four people, the solar-powered cabin at Mambray Creek has all the mod cons. All you need to bring is your bed linen and a chilly bin to keep your food cold.

But if, after reading a good book in the mild winter sun, watching the breeze sweep through the trees, listening to the birds and admiring visiting wildlife, you need a little more action, the answer lies right on your doorstep.

Set at the foot of the southern Flinders Ranges, Mambray Creek is the starting point to a number of walking trails in the 16,000ha Mt Remarkable National Park.

The trails, which vary in length and difficulty, wind their way from deep red gorges and sparkling creeks up mountain ranges and rocky ridges that offer spectacular views of the Spencer Gulf.

Returning to your base camp at Mambray Creek with sore muscles, it's good to know a hearty pub meal and cold beer are only a short drive away.

If you venture back out on to the dreary road, even momentarily, you'll find a few gems along the coast. The locals at Port Germein - home of Australia's longest wooden jetty - are never short of a joke, the beer is cold and the food is tasty. But after a few hours in civilisation you'll be itching to get back to the camp where the loudest noise you'll hear is the sound of your own thoughts blending with the crackling fire, running water and the occasional "coo, coo" of an owl.

- AAP