Colourful luzzu boats moored at the charming village of Marsaxlokk. Photo / Unsplash
Alessia Armenise asks three locals to share their favourite spots on the Mediterranean island, from beach shacks to chic restaurants.
It may seem absurd to say, but somehow its booming economy does Malta something of a disservice when it comes to attracting travellers seeking Mediterranean charm.
Although travel is a big part of my job, even I put off visiting the island because of its reputation for prosperous careers over rich cultural experiences.
Thankfully, I put rumours aside and took a trip. Here’s why you should, too.
“Malta often gets reduced to a postcard idea of sun, sea and limestone, but it is far more layered than that. It is intense and compact and full of contrasts,” says Sophie Edwards, a half-Maltese local I met on the island, who immigrated in 2019 with her husband.
“Ancient history sits next to everyday life. There is a strong sense of identity here and a rhythm to life that is very Mediterranean. It is small but culturally very rich and surprisingly complex.”
Landing at Malta’s International Airport in December, I was immediately welcomed by its wonderful balmy weather, a welcome difference from the rain and cold that most of mainland Europe experiences during winter.
If anyone tries to convince you that Italy is wonderful all year round, as a Southern Italian native and a seasoned European traveller, I can assure you they are lying.
Malta, however, seems to be blessed with a microclimate that only certain Mediterranean corners have, while also being extremely easy to reach from any major city on the continent – a big plus for anyone on a big European tour.
Since becoming a major economic hub in the 80s and joining the EU in 2004, the island has seen a dramatic influx of workers relocating for career opportunities, bringing an international energy and diverse culture to cities like its capital, Valletta.
Hesitant of only seeing the expat side of the island, I did what any traveller seeking authenticity does: I asked the locals.
“Malta is a kaleidoscope of experiences, quite incredibly varied given its tiny size,” says Maltese architect Chris Briffa, who was born on the island and lives there with his wife Hanna and their three children.
“If I had to choose my favourite places, it would be medieval Birgu, where I was raised, and the coastline of the Grand Harbour, which is one long, adventurous stretch – I like walking on this rugged coastline early in the morning, winter or summer.”
For Sophie, who runs Villa Bologna Pottery and Villa Bologna Restaurant with her husband Rowley, there’s no place she loves more than Attard, which is just a short bus or car ride from Valletta. But when it comes to spending a day at the seaside, she says that nowhere beats Mġarr, and especially the sandy beach of Għajn Tuffieħa.
As for food, if you want to experience real Maltese delicacies, venture to the fishing villages, “like Marsaxlokk or St Paul’s Bay, or inland villages like Mġarr, where tender rabbit meat is often the dish of the day,” says Chris.
And if he had to imagine a perfect foodie day?
“I would go for lunch at Tartarun in Marsaxlokk; have a cocktail or two at Ginscal in Valletta, and then to Salumeria in St Julian’s to share some delicious sourdough pizzas,” he continues.
In Valletta, Sophie swears by Trabuxu, “a cosy, family-run spot that is intimate and consistently good with an easy, unpretentious atmosphere.
“For something a bit more glamorous, The Beef Bar is great for food and energy. And very often we end up at local band clubs in village squares for a casual beer on plastic chairs”.
For Thomas Camilleri, who was born and raised on the island and runs one of Valletta’s oldest independent shops, Hollywood Valletta, the capital is the best place to be, but “the rugged western edge of Malta is also incredible.
“Start at Ġebel Ċiantar with its Bronze Age wall viewpoint and walk along the cliffs towards Miġra l-Ferħa. The whole walk is spectacular,” he suggests.
There is plenty of great food in Valletta and, thanks to Chris’ suggestion, I experienced one of the most Italian lunches I’ve ever eaten at the restaurant Da Pippo.
When they told me it was a favourite of Maltese lawyers, as it sits very close to the tribunal, I did not expect to enter what resembled a family party, with people singing along to the music and massive plates of pasta being passed around.
I also didn’t expect a kilo of seafood spaghetti to be considered a three-person starter, but that’s what we were served, and I utterly enjoyed every bite of food just as much as the ambience.
For more traditional delicacies, Thomas had a few ideas for me.
“For a great tuna ftira (a traditional Maltese sourdough bread), Xufi Bar in Mosta is a must-try. For a delicious brunch with an Asian twist, head to Emma’s Kitchen in San Ġwann. Celebrating with a slap-up meal? Noni in Valletta is excellent, and the chef-patron, Jonathan, is lovely.”
Visiting in the middle of winter, I was blown away by the atmosphere on the island. While many similar destinations shut down during the low season, Malta seems to shine 365 days a year – but I still plan to be back to see how the island looks in the thick of it.
“During the warmer months, it’s hard to beat the mood at Salumeria Gardens or Paradise Exiles,” said Thomas.
The former is in a garden and serves the best pizza on the island with great beer on tap, the latter is right on the sea and is always full of locals still in their wet swimwear catching up over drinks and food.
As for me, I’m already daydreaming about soaking up the sun while on a catamaran, sipping a crisp glass of local white.
The writer travelled at their own expense.