Luxuriating on lakefront

By HEATHER RAMSAY


I wish I'd been driving an Alfa Romeo when I arrived at On the Point, a luxury lodge on the shores of Lake Rotorua. Not that I mind my Japanese import, but as we swept between the pillars of the entry portico, tiled terraces with wrought iron balustrades overlooking the lake transported me momentarily to the Italian lakes district.

A sleek Italian car would have suited the surroundings perfectly. Although On the Point feels European, its roots are pure New Zealand.

It occupies 2.8ha on Kawaha Point, where pre-European Maori fishing villages once spread along the shore. The remains of a pa can be seen on a rocky point above the lake, and Mokoia Island, scene of bloody battles and the love story of Hinemoa and Tutanekai, looms darkly just offshore.

In the early 1900s a wealthy Englishman built a gracious home on the point, which became a Rotorua landmark famous for its parties and society occasions. A new homestead was built after a fire in the 1930s, and it remained a family home until it was remodelled into seven elegant guest suites.

Facilities are modern, but history, fine craftsmanship and the use of antiques, heirlooms and classic furnishings give the lodge a feeling of solidity and tradition.

There's also a lakefront log cabin - but cast away all thoughts of rustic, pioneer-style living. This was our hideaway for two days and, unless you count soaking in a jacuzzi on a private terrace watching squalls scud across the lake, there was no hardship.

My main difficulty was learning to drive a massaging shower with more controls than an Alfa Romeo.

The cabin is self-contained but we dined at the lodge so we could enjoy the snooker room, pre-dinner drinks in front of a fire, and dinner in the wood-panelled formal dining room. We joined other guests, but dining spaces and menus are flexible.

Despite its seclusion, On the Point is right in the city, so activities and attractions are close. In fact, some of the activities come right to you.

One morning a helicopter swooped by to take guests to White Island, and Blair Watson of Clark Gregor Fishing moored his catamaran at the private jetty, to take us in search of trout.

Blair assured us that the catch rate on Lake Rotorua is 0.8 fish an hour. He joked he didn't know which 0.2 of the trout would be missing, and we replied that we hoped they'd come pre-gutted.

After some unsuccessful trolling on the eastern side of the lake, we headed for Ohau Channel, which connects Lake Rotorua to Lake Rotoiti.

Skilful manoeuvring saw us slip over the weir into the channel, which was buzzing with bird activity. Dozens of shags, ducks, grey herons and even a kotuku lined the waterway, and the fish-finder showed plenty of action below. However, trolling isn't permitted in the channel and by now we had other things on our mind.

On the southern side of Lake Rotoiti are the Manupirua Hot Springs, fed by water piped from under the bush-clad hillside and reached only by boat. Not even the resident caretaker was around when we soaked (there's an honesty box on the jetty).

Back on Lake Rotorua we tried more trolling. The slow forward movement of the boat makes your lure attractive to trout, freeing you to enjoy the company and scenery.

Which is what we were doing when the trout struck. We all leapt up, but it was my pretty pink lure that had proved irresistible to the unlucky fish.

Blair offered to smoke the trout but I wanted to release it. Seeing it roll from a belly-up position to flick into the depths was a rewarding end to the day.

Trout fishing, hot springs and mud make up the area's famous tourism trinity, so with the first two ticked off, we sought out the slimy stuff.

Most visitors observe Rotorua's mud from a distance We ended up sitting, soaking and slithering in it.

The sitting and soaking happened at Wai Ora Spa, amid the action of Hell's Gate Thermal Reserve.

I enjoyed the sensation of silky geothermal mud oozing between my fingers and slipping over my skin.

Not so enjoyable was the compulsory freezing shower afterwards. But in a good-bad-good sequence, the shower was followed by a soak in a hot sulphur spa pool, complete with a hot waterfall. Traditional Maori massage is also available.

Our slithery mud adventure at Land Rover Experience had us testing our off-road driving mettle on 40km of tracks that wend through farmland and beautiful native bush.

We were there after the Bay of Plenty floods so the mud was the real deal - sticky, slippery clay sludge waiting to suck us in and hold us fast.

On the last morning Rotorua turned on the charm worthy of an Italian lover, with sun-kissed mist rising from the glassy lake. As we drove out of the lodge gates, I was moved to modify the only Italian phrase I know: "Arrivederci Rotorua".

* Heather Ramsay was a guest of On the Point and Tourism Rotorua.

Where to find it

On the Point,

214 Kawaha Point Rd, Rotorua

Contact

Phone: 07 348 4868;

email Info On the Point

On the Point

What it costs

Until September 30: Suites, double occupancy $475 per person, single $715. Premier suite, double $575 per person, single $865. Log chalet, double $ 475 per person, single $715.

From October 1: Suites, double $595 per person, single $895. Premier suite, double $695 per person, single $1045. Log chalet, double $595 per person, single $895. Prices include accommodation, pre-dinner drinks and canapes, four-course table d'hote dinner and breakfast. GST not included.

Other contacts

Clark Gregor Fishing, ph 07 347 1123; 0274 927 122; Trout NZ

Wai Ora Spa, ph 07 345 3151;

Land Rover Experience, ph 07 348 3007; Land Rover Experience