Howth, Ireland. Photo / Unsplash
As a destination that is rich in stories rather than sights, Dublin rewards travellers who linger, writes local Louise Slyth.
Dublin is famous worldwide for two things: Guinness, and the craic (pronounced crack). The former is our black porter, which has been brewed here since 1759. The latter is our very own brand of good times. You’ll find both here in spades, but there’s a lot more to Dublin town than that.
Dublin is a place to be rather than see. It’s not bursting with bucket-list landmarks, but that’s part of the appeal. In Paris you can admire the grace and grandeur of the Eiffel Tower. Our Millenium Spire will merely leave you wondering why someone would erect a huge spike in the middle of the city, (as well as giving you a crick in your neck). We have a castle, but it’s more of an administrative building than a sightseeing highlight.
Instead, the city’s nuanced charm lies in its stories, which explains its close connection to both music and literature. Tradfest is our annual traditional Irish music and folk festival. And Whelan’s pub has been a cornerstone of Dublin’s live music scene for over 30 years, hosting names like Nick Cave. Meanwhile, the city’s stadiums draw huge acts like Taylor Swift and Coldplay.
The Unesco City of Literature, has also been home to famous writers like Oscar Wilde and James Joyce, and you can see their legacy as you walk through the streets.
A statue of Wilde reclines on a rock in Merrion Square. Samuel Beckett has a bridge in his name. Joyce is literally embedded into the city streets. You can follow the James Joyce Trail, a self-guided walk marked by small bronze plaques that trace the steps of Leopold Bloom from the book Ulysses.
The Museum of Literature Ireland is a great place to learn about our cultural heritage. Insider tip – in the summer months it’s hard to beat the peaceful courtyard garden of its Commons Cafe.
If you’re looking for a beautiful green space to settle down with a book or simply enjoy nature, you’ll be spoilt for choice. Phoenix Park is one of Europe’s largest city parks, and home to a wild herd of fallow deer. Even right in the city centre, you have the choice of Iveagh Gardens, Merrion Square, or St Stephen’s Green.
Dublin shines at night, with myriad restaurants and bars to enjoy. Many city centre restaurants have won international awards, like seafood spot Sole, or steak restaurant FX Buckley.
Newly relaunched bistro Coppinger is run by the same team behind Coppinger Row – once a favourite of visiting stars including Beyoncé and George Clooney.
A personal favourite is Wilde, which has a perfectly cosy yet glamorous atmosphere. Here, seasonal local produce is delivered with flair, with the warmest of welcomes.
A short stroll to the neighbourhood of Portobello takes you to Lena: A wonderful Italian restaurant that opened in 2025 and already has a Michelin listing due to its modern yet comforting dishes.
In terms of bars, Temple Bar is for tourists, not travellers. Instead, head to local favourites like Kehoe’s, Grogan’s or Nearys’s. But beware, the better the Guinness, the stickier the floor is likely to be... If you want something more upmarket, head to Cafe en Seine, or 37 Dawson Street. No 27 Bar and Lounge at The Shelbourne Hotel is renowned as a place to see and be seen, but locals know to check out the cosy Horseshoe Bar, tucked just past the grand staircase.
The Irish love the outdoors almost as much as New Zealanders do, and you don’t have to travel far to appreciate our natural world. The Dublin Coastal Trail snakes its way through 11 charming villages, from Skerries in the north to Killiney in the south. Each has its own distinct personality.
You can cover the whole 64km route in around three hours using public transport, but the best plan is to choose a couple of places to stop and savour.
My favourite is the bustling fishing village of Howth, which boasts blustery cliff path walks, amazing fresh seafood, and its own resident seal population. Or there’s Bull Island, a national nature reserve, popular with birdwatches and walkers.
If you’re more drawn to the forest than the sea, then the Wicklow Mountains National Park is a great alternative. The Glendalough Valley has a renowned monastic site, as well as lots of walking trails. The Glendalough Bus service runs trips several times a day.
There’s no bad time to visit Dublin; each season is alluring in its own way. October until March is chillier but generally more relaxed, with fewer crowds and still lots to do, even if it’s a bit rainy.
As a local, I love autumn; there’s nothing like stomping through a carpet of copper leaves in one of our many city parks, then going for a relaxing brunch or afternoon tea. It’s also a great time for culture, including the Dublin Theatre Festival, Culture Night, the Dublin Fringe Festival and Open House Dublin, with free exhibitions across the city.
Dublin isn’t the prettiest capital city you’ll visit, but its laid-back charm is sure to leave a lasting impression.
The writer travelled independently.