Musée Bourdelle houses gardens filled with sculptures and is completely free to enter. Photo / Supplied
Musée Bourdelle houses gardens filled with sculptures and is completely free to enter. Photo / Supplied
Often overlooked in favour of its flashier neighbours, Paris’ 15th arrondissement is full of traditional brasseries, hidden museums, and a quintessentially French atmosphere, writes local Alessia Armenise
My love story with the most mistreated arrondissement in Paris started by chance, when, still a young student in a foreign country,I stumbled across a tiny studio apartment that would be my home for many years to come.
In my 20s, people thought I was foolish for deciding to swap the Right Bank, with its cool clubs, trendy restaurants, and up-and-coming neighbourhoods, for the Left Bank. I went from living in the heart of the hustle and bustle of the Gare du Nord to living in a place that was considered bourgeois (but not as fancy as other parts of the city) and, let’s call a spade a spade, quite boring.
However, I always appreciated the sense of safety, the village-like atmosphere, and the feeling that I was living in a “real” part of the French capital, still unconquered by fashionable cafes and tourist crowds. For these reasons, since then and during various periods over the last 12 years, every time I lived in Paris, I would always choose to find a place in the 15th.
Firstly, it’s good to point out that not all the area included in the 15th arrondissement is made equal. This district is the third-largest and the most populous in the city, so some parts of it are residential and somewhat scruffy, but there are plenty of treasures to be found for those who are willing to explore.
This isn’t the kind of neighbourhood you’ll discover through influencer recommendations, as even most Parisians rarely venture to this corner of the Rive Gauche and don’t really know much about it unless they have lived there.
The 15th is one of those hidden gems that need local knowledge, and, after more than a decade as a resident and a fan, I have rounded up the best things to find in the most underrated neighbourhood in Paris.
The 15th is Paris’ most populous arrondissement, yet it rarely features in tourist guides. Photo / Supplied
Where to stay
If you are looking for a real “living like a local” experience, nothing better than sleeping in a splendid Haussmannian building, in a B&B that feels like staying in a charming apartment. Relais 12bis is a five-room family-owned hideaway, only minutes away from the Eiffel Tower and the Champ de Mars.
If a classic hotel stay is more your style, Hotel Ami is situated in one of the most charming corners of the 15th, right in the heart of the bustling residential neighbourhood, making it perfect for experiencing life as a resident. The rooms are colourful and comfortable, and the outdoor patio is a fantastic spot for breakfast during the warmer months.
Hotel Ami is situated in one of the most charming corners of the 15th. Photo / Supplied
Where to eat
The 15th being historically a very French, middle-class neighbourhood, means you’ll find no shortage of traditional brasseries to try. Le Bélisaire, for example, is nestled on a small road and is one of the locals’ favourite dinner spots, so a reservation is a must if you want to get a table. The food is exactly what you expect, classic French dishes, perfectly executed.
Similar in style, though more upscale than the more famous and affordable Bouillon Chartier, Le Café du Commerce is a Parisian institution and a great place to dine if you are in a large group, which is a rarity in a city where restaurants tend to be on the smaller side.
Café du Commerce, with its vast space, is one of the few Parisian restaurants perfect for groups. Photo / Supplied
Where to drink
This isn’t by any means the most avant-garde cocktail bar in the city, but it is the one with the best views. If you are planning to celebrate your time in Paris with a glass of bubbles, there is nowhere better than Ciel de Paris, on the 56th floor of the tallest tower within Paris’ walls, the Tour Montparnasse. The restaurant boasts an incredible view over the city, which becomes even more dreamy at night, when the Eiffel Tower starts to sparkle.
No Paris visit is complete without good wine, and, in the 15th, there’s one spot where you can both taste and take home a bottle: La Cave à Millésimes. An amazing selection of wines and spirits in a friendly atmosphere, where you can have a glass with lunch, book a private wine tasting experience during the week or have a little apéro in the evening.
Ciel de Paris offers panoramic views from the 56th floor – one of the best city vistas. Photo / Supplied
What to do
If you’ve already visited Paris’ major museums and landmarks, small local museums offer a quieter way to explore a new neighbourhood and uncover lesser-known artists while getting away from the tourists and joining the artsy Parisian scene.
Musée Bourdelle, dedicated to the eponymous sculptor, is my favourite small museum in Paris. Three different buildings are connected by three sculpture-filled gardens, featuring not only the artist’s own work but also pieces from his personal collection. The studio is a marvellous example of 19th-century architecture and it’s worth a visit in itself, especially considering it’s free and doesn’t require a reservation. If you fancy staying longer, the museum hosts a cafe and restaurant, Le Rhodia, on the first floor.
Musée Bourdelle. Photo / Supplied
Paris includes a few islands, one of which is located in the 15th arrondissement. Not many people seem to visit it, but there is a second Statue of Liberty and it stands proud on the beautiful Ile aux Cygnes (Isle of Swans). This small artificial island in the Seine River is mostly ignored by tourists, but it’s a lovely place to take a walk or have a picnic overlooking the river. Even more interestingly, just above the island, you’ll find the Pont de Grenelle, where you can get one of the best and clearest views of the Eiffel Tower – no crowds in sight.
The André-Citroën Park is a great place to spend a few hours chilling in the sun or, even better, enjoying a great view of the city from a hot air balloon. Not many people are aware of this Parisian secret yet, so the queues are usually manageable. However, be sure to check its website before heading there to see if the balloon is allowed to fly on that specific day, as sometimes the winds can be too strong for it.
