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Home / Travel

Layers of London: Lesser known gems

By Kate Ford
Spy.co.nz·
17 Jun, 2018 02:00 AM9 mins to read

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In a notoriously expensive city, there are still plenty of things won't cost you a penny.

Have you seen Big Ben, gaped at the Tate Modern and waved at the Queen? Its biggest attractions are iconic and plentiful but in the UK capital, you have never seen it all. Try some of these lesser known gems on your next visit, writes Kate Ford.

Broadway Market, Hackney

Borough Market is the overlord when it comes to food stalls in London but save some time for the not-so-little guy over in Hackney. Operating on Saturdays, Broadway Market has been in business since the 1890s (probably selling eel pie back then) and currently offers all sorts of goodies. The street is closed off to make way for the stalls, where you can pick up anything from cannoli and fudge to bread and cheese. There are craft stalls dotted along the street, and the permanent shops on the perimeter continue to operate, so you can also pick up a coffee, pop in to a pub for a pint, or peruse the arty book store. Broadway Market gets busy but it's not the tourist magnet that Borough is.

Duke Of York Square, Chelsea

When you want atmosphere and the shopping scene of Oxford or Kensington High Street but without the glug of people, Duke of York Square is a chilled and elegant alternative. Nestled deep inside affluent Chelsea, it's where you'll find delightful independent stores tucked away. They won't be serving up bargain finds, but nonetheless it's all pretty to look at. For those high street purchases, the square has a Zara, Whistles, L.K. Bennett and All Saints, and for the bibliophiles, don't miss the treasure troves that are the Taschen store and the independent John Sandoe Books, just down the road. There's a sprinkle of high-end restaurants and the Saatchi Gallery, too, just to ensure that extra kick of culture.

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Wellcome Collection, King's Cross

London does many things well but it exceeds beyond all measure when it comes to museums. There are so many greats and most of them are free, even the big ones. It takes a week just to get around the Tate Modern, Victoria and Albert, British Museum, and that's only the tip of the iceberg. If you can, get to the Wellcome Collection near King's Cross. This museum — yes it's also free — aims to "challenge how we all think and feel about health". Established under Sir Henry Wellcome's will (he was a pharmacist and philanthropist), the exhibitions here put an interesting slant on what could be a dry subject. The current exhibition, on until September 16, is called Teeth. It explores everything from folk remedies and tooth fairies to barber-surgeons and dentists. Perhaps not one for those with a phobia of the "murder house", but with more than 150 objects, including "ancient protective amulets" and dentures, it will definitely make for some meaty dinner table conversation. Next up, from October 4 to March 3, is Living With Buildings, exploring "how our built environment contributes to our physical and mental health in both positive and negative ways".

The Belleville Brewing Company Taproom, Wandsworth Common

London is certainly not lacking in places to sink a pint or two, but The Belleville Brewing Company Taproom has become a firm favourite of mine. Situated in an unassuming spot behind the Wandsworth Common train station, the Taproom serves pints at £3 (NZ$5.70) each — a steal in terms of London prices. They are brewed in a US style and you'll find pale ales, session IPAs and lagers, along with seasonal drinks such as the Calif-Oregon Amber and the Battersea Brownstone. What started as a passion project became The Belleville Brewing Company, set up by 10 dads who all had children at Belleville Primary School. They've done well; not only do they make great beer but the service is exceptional and if you're lucky, there'll be a pop-up street-food style stall outside serving delicious pizza or wraps.

Brixton Market, Brixton

The best way to do Brixton Market, a sprawling mix of eateries and shops, is to visit as a group and have a small bite at a bunch of different restaurants. My husband and I went with two friends and we each chose a place to visit and a dish to order. We headed to Seven at Brixton for a pre-dinner cocktail before venturing around the culinary world and eating dumplings, pizza and burgers — sharing everything between the four of us. There are plenty of different cuisines to choose from, including Mexican, Jamaican, Portuguese and French, so have fun concocting your own mini food tour. If you visit earlier in the day, you'll also be able to wander through the arcades for jewellery, homeware, art and music.

Barbican Conservatory, Barbican

Tropical and London are two words that really don't go together. At the

Barbican Conservatory

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, however, you'll find a lush green oasis and exotic fish that balances out London the Grey. The second biggest conservatory in the city (after Kew Gardens), Barbican also gives off an air of exclusivity as it is only open on Sundays from noon to 5pm. After you've admired the 2000-odd plants and trees, refuel with afternoon tea in the conservatory and nibble on cakes and sandwiches in this peaceful environment.

Conservatory at London's Barbican Centre. Photo / Max Colson
Conservatory at London's Barbican Centre. Photo / Max Colson

LONDON FOR LESS

GO LOW (SEASON)

London's high season is late spring and summer and it's also popular in December. Prices and crowds drop outside those times. Right now is when to book your trip for Northern Hemisphere's autumn.

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The further out you go from the heart of London, the cheaper the lodging. Just make sure you're within an easy walk from the Tube and build a little extra time into your itinerary for your commute into town.

TAKE A PASS

Since I knew I was going to be visiting a lot of paid attractions, I bought a London Pass, a multi-venue card. The drawback to this kind of option is one can feel pressured to rush around and get maximum value. My goal was to avoid ticket lines and not lose money. I paid about £150 (NZ$286) for a six-day pass that came with an Oyster transit card preloaded with about £40. I visited all the places I wanted, including Windsor Castle (train fare is included in the pass) and rode a hop-on, hop-off bus for a day. I didn't max out the pass but did come out about £90 ahead. If you'd rather take a more curated approach, look online for pay-in-advance discounts and specials such as the two-for-one ticket to the Queen's Gallery and Royal Mews.

West End shows are another area where you can easily drop a bundle. But if you're flexible on times and shows, discount tickets and last-minute bargains are available in-person at the TKTS office in Leicester Square. You can also book online at officiallondontheatre.com/theatre-tickets.

HI-LOW TEAS

There are plenty of lavish teas to be had in London, including the swanky spread at gourmet grocer Fortnum & Mason that comes to about $75. Harrods, too, has an excellent option if you are in the mood to splurge. Or, you can stop by F&M's more casual restaurant, The Parlour, where for about £11 I enjoyed excellent scones, free Wi-Fi and the best cup of tea of my life. If the weather's fine, consider an al fresco repast, picking up some snacks at Harrods famous food hall and enjoying them in nearby Hyde Park.

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- Michelle Locke, AP

COMING UP

Sara Dajani previews some of the events keeping London buzzing for the rest of 2018.

Pride in London Parade
Saturday, July 7
London's biggest festival occurs every summer, with many tourists joining the fun of this LGBT+ event. The colourful festival brings together London's LGBT+ communities for a one-day parade, raising awareness and encouraging equality.

Buckingham Palace summer opening
Monday, July 20-Sunday, September 30
Buckingham Palace opens its doors every summer, with 19 of its 775 rooms open to the public. Visitors are able to see the State Rooms and the Royal Collections, with famous paintings, sculptures, porcelain, and English and French furniture on display. To mark the 70th birthday of Prince Charles, the new Prince and Patron exhibition features special artworks personally selected by the Prince of Wales.
Ticket package deals are available, and it's advisable to book well in advance — this popular summer event is often sold out.

Notting Hill Carnival
August 25-27
This free event in West London's famous borough is one of Europe's largest street festivals — last year's carnival attracted a massive two million people. London's Caribbean communities come together every year for this family-friendly festival, which is filled with performances, music, food and more. The carnival has a different theme each day, and entertainment includes steel band competitions, parades, a children's day, food stalls, and live stages.

Carnaby Street Eats

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August 11

This free-entry event takes place on one of London's most iconic streets in the heart of the West End. The all-day street food festival will have more than 30 food stalls and ethnic cuisines from the area's most popular eateries, as well as live music and entertainment.

London. Photo / petewebb.com/London and Partners
London. Photo / petewebb.com/London and Partners

Frieze Art Fair

October 3-7

Every year, this well-known art fair showcases artworks from more than

160 of the most well-known contemporary galleries in the world. About 1000 contemporary artists will be at the event, in Regent's Park, showcasing their own work, available to the public to buy. The fair also has a range of talks and Frieze projects to see and Frieze Sculpture runs concurrently nearby. Tickets are available now and often sell out, so book in advance.

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FACT BOX

GETTING THERE
Cathay Pacific flies from Auckland to London, via Hong Kong.

DETAILS
visitlondon.com

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