Lakeside lunch in a mountain retreat

CHRISTINE McCRACKEN meant to go to Greymouth, but a friendly rail employee suggested she spend her time on the shores of Lake Brunner.

I'm on the near-deserted shores of a small piece of paradise called Lake Brunner in Moana, Westland, on a sunny afternoon, walking off a satisfying lunch from the Station House Cafe.

There's a gentle breeze blowing as I wander around the shores of the lake.

I had planned a return journey from Christchurch to Greymouth on the TranzAlpine Railway, but a friendly Tranz Rail staff member recommended the stopover at Moana; a break of around 2 3/4 hours and a pre-paid lunch at the cafe, just a few steps from the railway station. I was assured that I would have no regrets about not continuing to Greymouth.

Leaving Christchurch, we headed out across the Canterbury Plains. The panoramic windows in the carriages were perfect for taking in the scenery as I relaxed in air-conditioned comfort with a book ready to fill in the rare quiet moments. A speaker system sprang into life and the crew shared their knowledge, the passing highlights and some of the local history.

As we approached the foothills of the Southern Alps I made my way through the swaying carriages to an open-air viewing car where, buffeted by wind, I took photos without fear of my reflection glaring back at me from the glass windows.

Heading back to the enclosed carriages, I stopped at the buffet car to investigate. It was doing a steady trade serving drinks, snacks and light meals that you have to take back to your seat to consume. As smooth as the journey was, I am sure there were a few mishaps.

We wound our way through the hills, along the sides of river gorges and over high viaducts. We passed alongside large areas of high-country grazing land and alpine tussock following, in places, the route of the horse-drawn Cobb & Co coaches, which were the link between Canterbury and the West Coast from 1866 to 1923. Some areas can be reached only by train and some have only recently become accessible by four-wheel-drive vehicles.

We pulled in for a short stop at the small alpine village of Arthurs Pass and, as I stepped down from the train, the bitter wind caught me by surprise. The sun hadn't made an impact here yet - even though it was only half an hour shy of midday.

Some of the more energetic travellers stepped off to spend five hours exploring the village and walking the nearby tracks of Arthurs Pass National Park. Back on the train, the ceiling lights cast an almost luminescent glow through the carriage as we passed through the 8.5km Otira Tunnel, the longest of 16 tunnels on our journey.

From Otira we briefly followed the Taramakau River, enjoying the wide, green, river valley and rainforest, testimony to the high rainfall on the West Coast.

At the almost non-existent town of Jacksons, with a pub once famed for its possum pies, we headed northwest towards Lake Brunner and the angler's paradise of Moana.

Seven of us left the train and as we watched it disappear from view, our attention turned to the cafe on the opposite side of the tracks.

We saw the ancient pedestrian bridge 50m away - turned and glanced at each other - then like disobedient schoolchildren, stepped down and crossed the tracks to a choice of seasonal whitebait fritters, nachos, Thai chicken plus much more, including my favourite, home-made meat pie and salad, served with the inevitable chips.

You could though, simply sit on the deck with a muffin and coffee, or perhaps sample some of the boutique brew that West Coasters are so proud of and fought so hard to retain, Monteith's Ale.

An alternative lunch venue is the Moana Hotel - an easy 10-minute walk from the train with restaurant dining or takeaway meals to choose from.

After lunch I stepped out into the sun, walking past the silent holiday homes, the almost deserted camping ground and into the peace of the rainforest, the edge of a 52ha reserve. I picked my way round damp muddy spots, a reminder that the weather here is not always so favourable, then made my way to the lake edge where one of my co-travellers was dozing quietly on the warm pebbles.

Now, I'm paddling slowly around the edge of Lake Brunner, also known as Moana-Kotuku (Lake of the White Heron) while vainly keeping an eye out for one of the rare herons. The lake is also fondly promoted by the locals as being "where the trout die of old age" but, as it is a popular fishing spot, this may not be strictly true.

I follow the lake shore, pass the yacht club, where, high in a tree, hangs a well-worn rope knotted at the end. My mind is filled with pictures of happy fearless children, swinging high above the lake and releasing the rope to drop screaming into the chilly water.

Our scheduled departure time is 3:20 pm and as it draws near, all seven of us are seated on the decks of the Station House Cafe looking across the railway station to the lake beyond. None of us are inspired to move from this serene spot, until our host tells us that the empty coal train, blocking our dangerous walk across the tracks, won't be moving; we will have to use the over-bridge.

Twenty-six trains pass this point every day and Moana is one of the few places where two trains can pass at the same time.

The last of the coffee and the local brew is swiftly downed and we make the short walk down the bank and across the over-bridge to the station and wait for our journey back to reality.

I take with me only one regret; I didn't stay long enough.

Tranz Rail Travel

Greymouth New Zealand

* The author travelled on Tranz Rail's Lake Brunner Lunch excursion for $129, ph 0800 802 802