Feats of engineering, Dunstan. Photo / Elisabeth Easther
From a clawfoot tub in Clyde to a massage chair in Lawrence, Elisabeth Easther cycles the famed Lake Dunstan Trail and lesser-known Clutha Gold Trail, discovering postcard scenery, small-town charm and a fair bit of thyme along the way.
When the Lake Dunstan Trail opened in May 2021 there was fanfare and excitement as droves of keen cyclists descended on Central Otago to ride it. Fifty-five kilometres long, this magnificent trail connects Cromwell with Clyde, and those early reports gushed about the scenery, the majestic mountains and the many feats of engineering over the Clutha River. From elegant suspension bridges to cantilevered clip-ons bolted to rock walls over water – judging from social media posts and travel stories, minds were officially blown.
Not to mention that the country had just spent much of the previous year in lockdown, and with international travel still off the menu, Kiwis hit local attractions in record numbers. As a result, I had terrible FOMO, because everyone seemed to be riding the Lake Dunstan Trail but me.
Four years later, it’s my turn and I set off for dam-side Clyde and to celebrate I spend a night at Oliver’s, a local establishment that manages to be both opulent and cosy. A lovingly restored heritage hotel, Oliver’s also offers fine dining, a casual cafe and delicatessen while my boudoir boasts a claw foot tub and underfloor heating. My FOMO is about to abate.
Up early the next morning and dressed for cycling, I join a pair of concrete merchants and four other cyclists at the communal breakfast table while unflappable Andy works calmly in her scullery. Sitting down to Oliver’s hearty morning repast of homemade muesli, berries, stewed apricots, homemade bread and jam as well as cooked options, I am ready for action.
Over the road from Oliver’s, the team at Bike it Now! fit me out with an e-bike, then a small group of us are driven to Cromwell to the head of the trail. I am also given Gary, a recently retired arrival to Clyde. At least Gary thought he’d retired after spending 40 years as a commercial baker in Invercargill, but be warned, practical chaps get snapped up round here and find themselves doing everything from driving shuttles to chaperoning solo cyclists.
Saddled up, we pedal beside the river with its jaw-dropping backdrop of snow-capped peaks. As we ride, Gary tells me how he and his wife relish their new life, and his contentment is contagious. As we shoot the breeze, I try to think of words to capture the colours of the river and cliffs of schist, but everything feels like a pretentious paint chart. What I will say, I could ride this trail every day forever and never tire of it.
Eight kilometres in we reach Carrick Winery near Bannockburn where we stop for a cuppa on their manicured lawn dotted with chairs, tables and art. With the view duly admired, we are off again. As the sun rises higher, the aroma of thyme fills the air, thanks to some French fella who planted the heady herb back in the day, Gary tells me. Merci monsieur.
At Pick Axe Bridge, Gary slows so we can find the eponymous tool wedged into the rock by some long-dead miner. Central Otago’s Excalibur. Pulling over at The Coffee Float, this burger joint operates from an old moored boat at the river’s edge. Shut for winter, it’s actually for sale if anyone fancies picking up sticks and relocating.
A new photo opportunity around each bend with trail segments called quirky things like Three Little Pigs, Colosseum and Cold Stew – cheers to the trail builders – and all too soon we’re back in Clyde, and it’s adios to my new pal Gary.
If the Lake Dunstan Trail is the main course, then the 62km leg from Lawrence to Waihola on The Clutha Gold Trail is dessert. Reaching Lawrence on dusk, I park at Lawrence Townhouse, the brainchild of local entrepreneur Jude. A former shearing gang cook, Jude recognised the town’s future and created a range of accommodation options from the newly built townhouses to Mata Au Lodge. Jude also runs a shuttle service and The Slippery Chip food truck. A hard-case, Jude had seen a fair few towns in her shearing days, but it is Lawrence that stole her heart. Jude also knows what big groups need, from the massive kitchen and living room, this place sleeps six. It also has excellent amenities including laundry and a top-of-the-line massage chair. Instead of going out for dinner, I eat toast and set the controller to full-body Shiatzu.
Properly pummelled, the next day I set off on another steed from Bike it Now!. Fully charged, the sturdy Merida had been left outside my digs. “No lock, this is Lawrence mate,” and from the get-go I’m virtually the only rider on the trail. I do spy one far-off farmer, otherwise it’s just me and the rolling green hills. The perfect temperature too, and I relish the aromas of fallen leaves and wet grass, damp wool and wood smoke. Riding through rural Waitahuna, the old rail town features wrought iron sculptures and old bicycles rusting on fences. Gingerly riding the dank dark tunnels, grateful for my torch, I pop out at pretty Mount Stuart Reserve to find a paddock of bonny black sheep with curly horns wagging their undocked tails.
Riding along under wide open skies, I eventually hit Milton where op shops and farm stores line the bustling main street. The locals go about their weekday business, and I stop for a snack to fuel up for the final 17km leg to Waihola. The bridges on this stretch are very impressive and I stop to chat to a cheerful local who tells me about a local businessman whose largesse makes this section possible, including the native trees and the one-way flax roundabout. All too soon, I’m on the home stretch clattering on boardwalks that lead through rushes and wetlands, when I arrive at Lake Waihola. And the verdict for both these rides? I can absolutely see what all the fuss is about, although rather than ease my FOMO, I just want to go back.
Bike it Now! | bikeitnow.co.nz
Oliver’s | olivers.co.nz
Lawrence Townhouse | lawrenceaccommodation.com