A South Korean taekwondo expert performs martial arts. Photo / AP
I am squeezed into a cupboard. I would say a broom cupboard except it is half filled with vacuum cleaners. The other half is filled with me trying on, in the fashion of an incompetent contortionist, shorts I've spotted in Seoul's Good Morning City mall opposite the neo-futuristic Dongdaemun Design Plaza.
I buy the made-in-Korea shorts, appreciating the assistant making her makeshift fitting room available for this non-Korean-speaking tourist. Many shops don't let you try before you buy; I never get an explanation so can assume it is to avoid makeup smudges on the clothing.
Every day, despite a busy sightseeing itinerary, I have found time to browse the shops in the different areas of this bedazzling city, which wraps its environs and life around the river Han. Often I am on my way back to the central Lotte Hotel after eating out, as the shops don't close until 10 (some markets continue until midnight).
In the many shopping malls and markets serving this city of 10 million plus, there is a rich mix of Korean brands and global big guns.
Korea is particularly popular with Asian tourists seeking cosmetics, at prices they consider better than in their home countries, and they love the range of products. Another growing tourism sector is cosmetic appearance surgery, including at the Inha Medical Centre minutes away from the international airport, if you fancy in-transit attention.
What constantly impresses is the Koreans' politeness, whether they are a sales assistant or a bystander asked directions. Helping to understand that outlook is the explanation of the traditional hanbok-costumed staff at the National Museum, who introduce us to the history of Korea and explain the customs and etiquette of these gentle people. Bowing shows respect. The young have a reverence for elders and view their teachers as builders of the nation and won't walk on their shadows.
That respect for elders is highlighted by the scene at an outdoor swimming pool we pass in the middle of a 30C-plus day. The complex is crowded but no one is swimming. Why? Because children are allowed to swim 45 minutes and then must rest 15 minutes - all at the same time. And they do. Unquestioningly.
Literacy rates are the highest in the world, as is internet access. There is a drive to succeed, which perhaps can be attributed to overcoming adversity so recently and repeatedly. South Korea has developed from being war-torn in 1953 to one of the world's most-affluent countries. It is now part of a 20-50-country group with greater than US$20,000 gross national income and a 50-million plus population.
We learn how dynasties and kings have shaped this stretch of land, smaller than New Zealand (think more Austria or Ireland). The kings were hard working: just look at King Sejong (1397-1450, and on the 10,000 won note) who created hangul, the Korean phonetic alphabet system, its 24 letters representing 11,000 sounds when placed in different combinations. His genius didn't stop there: he is credited with helping invent rocket launchers and rain gauges.
Our guides tell us how this country, founded on the principle to live and work for the benefit of mankind, has never invaded but certainly has been invaded, most recently by the Japanese, who occupied Korea from 1910 to 1945.
This year, the country is celebrating 70 years of independence from the Japanese, denoted by patriotic displays of the Korean flags, some covering storeys of multilevel buildings, others banknote-sized, tagged to trees. The red and blue of the flag represents ying and yang, the harmony of positive and negative, earth and sky.
The division between South and North, means there is the influence, too, of the Americans' intervention, their presence marked by the high, barbed-wire-topped fences surrounding the central military base of 35,000 troops.
Certain streets are dedicated to Western restaurants, and the green tea cafe and coffee shop culture is thriving, particularly among the young who like Americanos (a long, long black). At night, younger workers head to Hongdae and Gangnam. The more mature like the City Hall district. They go out after work around 6-7pm and finish about midnight, dining on European pasta and pizza or traditional fare like the popular Korean dish referred to as chicken and beer (soju, a little like sake, is added to the chicken dish).
When I mention to a guide that one American coffee chain encountered resistance in Auckland for how staff were treated, he shrugs and says Koreans don't worry about that sort of thing.
Perhaps they have a different perspective on life after rallying to bring their economy back from collapse in 1997, when they worked overtime for free and donated gold to bail out their country, saying they had no right to wealth when their country was poor.
There is an underlying sadness, too, as the older Koreans talk about two Koreas rather than North and South. They hope one day for unification but also acknowledge difficulties for achieving this with the power-loving dictator in the North.
Never been to Korea? That is not surprising as Kiwis are relative newcomer tourists here. Of the country's 14 million tourists, seven million come from China. They especially like the variety and prices of makeup, the Korean dramas and that the climate is wetter than China's.
Five days in Korea confirm I have experienced only a portion of what this country has to offer tourists. We visit the Gyeongbokgung Palace to watch the colourful changing of the guard and venture north to the Demilitarised Zone marking the division between North and South Korea. We enjoy wonderful Korean buffets. But the best part is playing tourist, walking and looking.
We wander among the street markets where artisans sell produce and we are always looking at the architecture and searching for side alleys filled with even more shops and restaurants.
Seoul is clean and easy to navigate, by foot, bus, subway or taxi if that is more your style. I reckon this is a destination that will feature more often on Kiwis' itineraries. Seoul definitely has a warm heart and a kind soul.
Korean Air flies Auckland to Seoul, daily from Dec 15 to March 1, and four and five times a week other times of the year. Economy class from $1920, business class from $4420.
• Donna McIntyre was a guest of Korean Air.
The trendy spot is just six minutes from the Waikiki beach.