Wat Poramaiyikawat's iconic white stupa stands proud. Photo / Ronan O'Connell
When you want to escape the bustle of Bangkok, the relatively unknown island of Koh Kret is not only calm, it’s close by, writes Ronan O’Connell.
I am in one of the world’s biggest cities, a colossal metropolitan area of 20 million people, spiked by more than 200 skyscrapers. Yet surrounding me here in Bangkok is what looks, feels and smells like a rural village. What makes my idyllic location even more surprising is that it’s an island.
Thailand is, of course, world-renowned for its dreamy tropical islands, such as Phuket and Koh Samui, which are a key reason this country had 33 million foreign tourists last year. Yet this particular island in its national capital is a relative secret, and receives few visitors.
Called Koh Kret, it has more in common with the sleepy towns of Thailand’s countryside than with heaving Bangkok. Rice paddies sit alongside historic temples. Stilted wooden homes flank dusty pottery studios. Robed monks chant while burning incense in ancient monasteries. Cars are entirely absent, with motorbikes and boats the only transport. And fishermen dangle their rods into the Chao Phraya river that surrounds Ko Kret.
Meanwhile, for the first time in a week, I can breathe properly thanks to this island’s much cleaner air. Don’t get me wrong, Bangkok is one of my favourite cities on the planet. Not just because of its addictive cuisine, magnificent temples, varied nightlife and incredible value. But also because of owning a piece of my soul. I recently lived for a decade on-off in Bangkok, which is my wife’s home city and our young son’s most cherished holiday destination.
But after a while – such as that aforementioned week – this colossal city grinds me down with its crowds, pollution and clatter. Especially having grown up in Perth, Australia, which stands in stark contrast because of being green, clean and peaceful. New Zealand travellers would experience a similar shock to their system.
So when friends and family ask for advice about visiting Bangkok, I always recommend a way to refresh themselves: spend an early morning or late afternoon in Koh Kret. I specify those two times of day for a reason. Because while this island minimises some of the downsides of Bangkok, it cannot escape its draining heat and humidity. For most of the year, this city’s weather sits at about 34C and humidity north of 70%. The only way to counter this weather, somewhat, is by avoiding its harshest sunlight, roughly between 10.30am and 3pm.
Fortunately, it is outside of that period that Koh Kret is at its most charming. Arrive between 7am and 8am and you’ll witness monks moving between temples, local markets at their busiest, and Koh Kret residents exercising and socialising.
In the late afternoon to evening, the island is bathed in soft light, which accentuates its memorable scenery. And as the sun sets, Koh Kret’s riverside market returns to life. This charming bazaar has stalls selling clothes, art, souvenirs, snacks and freshly-cooked Thai food. Standout dishes include Pad Kra Pao (basil chicken or pork) and Khanom Chin fermented noodle curry.
This market is where many visitors begin their island visit. There are two main ways to reach Koh Kret, 20km north of downtown Bangkok. The simplest is by taxi or the Grab rideshare app, which costs $20 to $25 and takes between 40 and 70 minutes, depending on Bangkok’s dense traffic.
More scenic, and even cheaper, is catching the Chao Phraya Express Boat. This comfortable ferry along Bangkok’s main river costs $2 per person, departs many times a day from several piers in central Bangkok, and in less than 80 minutes brings you to Nonthaburi Pier. From there, it’s a short taxi ride to Wat Sanam Nuea temple, alongside which is a pier that is the main access point for Koh Kret. At this pier, visitors have two options: catch the ferry to the island, or book a boat tour of Koh Kret.
The former presents a challenge. Koh Kret is about 2.7km wide and 1.5km long so exploring it comprehensively on foot could leave you exhausted. Whereas by paying about $30 to $40 for a traditional longtail boat tour, you can see the entire island in relative ease.
Your driver will do a full circle of Koh Kret, dropping you at four to six key spots along the way, while waiting for you to return to the same pier. Make sure you pause at its pottery enclave. For centuries, Koh Kret has been renowned for the quality of its ceramics, which are hand-shaped before being fired in huge kilns, and then sold at the market.
Similarly unmissable is the island’s array of gleaming Buddhist temples, most of which date back to the country’s Ayutthaya Kingdom era (1351 to 1767). The finest of all is Wat Poramaiyikawat. Prayers echo through the grounds of this historic monastery, famed for its leaning white stupa. Just as they have done for almost 300 years here on Koh Kret, a wonderfully serene island amid one of the world’s busiest cities.
The writer travelled at their own expense.