Aotea Great Barrier Island is the closest you will come to a Pacific Island holiday without leaving New Zealand shores. Photo / 123rf
Leave the city behind for a break on our sixth-largest island, writes Karllie Clifton
Aotea Great Barrier Island offers non-stop stunning beaches and a delightful subtropical climate. This is the closest you will come to a Pacific Island holiday without having to leave the shores of Aotearoa New Zealand. With our borders closed, this island paradise was buzzing with visitors over the last summer season. There is no doubt it will come alive again when Tāmaki Makaurau Auckland re-opens to the rest of our nation.
Home to the people of Ngāti Rehua Ngāti Wai ki Aotea, many waka (Māori canoes) reached the shores of this island, including the Aotea waka. Hence the name Aotea. Māori settled and thrived there. Later, Captain James Cook gave the island another name, the one it is more commonly known by today, Great Barrier Island. The island is a barrier for the Hauraki Gulf and on a wild stormy day that is well and truly felt. The locals are friendly, albeit a little quirky at times, but they all contribute to the unique character of the landscape. As an off-the-grid paradise, Aotea Great Barrier is a unique travel experience.
A 40-minute flight from Auckland's domestic airport will deposit you at the island's main hub - Claris. Just don't expect a metropolis, here there are just a handful of convenience stores, a cafe, gallery and little else.
Aotea Great Barrier is the sixth-largest island in Aotearoa New Zealand and visitors are often surprised at how large the motu is. Travelling from one end to the other can take an hour and a half following winding narrow roads. There is no public transport but there are a number of options for getting around. Car hire is popular and almost a necessity for anyone planning to stay. Electric motorbikes have become a fun transport option in recent years and can be found near the airport at Motu Bikes. There are also local operators who will be only too happy to transfer visitors from one location to another.
With campgrounds and backpackers to estates and luxury homes, there are lodgings for all budgets and preferences. Many opt for Tryphena down south as it is the most populated area on the island with shops, cafes and the iconic Irish Pub. Medlands, near Claris, is home to the most frequented campground and beach on the island. Oruawharo Bay, also known as Medlands Beach, is a summer playground for many. However, there are other great locations to consider further north. Whangaparapara has many old stories with a few industries operating there over the years including mining, milling and whaling. You will also find very comfortable lodgings and a restaurant on the water's edge at Great Barrier Lodge.
Up north and away from the crowds are Port Fitzroy and, disputably the most stunning beach on the island, Whangapoua. Port Fitzroy is a popular anchorage for the many boats that frequent these waters over summer, offering both shelter and supplies. It is also home to Glenfern Sanctuary where a predator-proof fence protects the special species that live there. This includes the niho taniwha (chevron skink), tāiko (black petrel), pāteke (brown teal), kākā and a giant kauri known to be around 600 years old. Whangapoua is best accessed from the end of Mabey Rd unless you are there for the best surfing on the island. In that case, park up at the Whangapoua campsite and make your way across the estuary to the estuary mouth.
Some visitors head out on the spectacular Aotea Track, hiking over three days and two nights, staying in Department of Conservation huts. This multi-day hike offers stunning views and includes the highest summit on the island, Hirakimatā (Mount Hobson). Over the summer months, the endangered tāiko return from as far away as South America to breed on Aotea and Hauturu-o-Toi (Little Barrier Island). At night, they fill the skies around Hirakimatā making quite a racket, but it is a very special sight and sound to experience from the Mount Heale hut.
If a multi-day hiking adventure sounds a bit too much then there are plenty of tracks to choose from for all ages and abilities. A favourite includes Palmers Track from Windy Canyon to the summit of Hirakimatā, especially in late summer through autumn when the very distinct blue mushrooms, werewere kokako (Entoloma Hochstetteri) appear. The trail to the Kaitoke Hot Springs is the most popular walking track on the island, one of the easiest and suitable for all ages. It should only take about 30 minutes to reach the springs from the main road. A soak in these healing thermal waters is a treat any time of the year but it's worth noting that they cool down considerably after rain.
Remembering this island is off-the-grid with a population of just over a thousand permanent residents, there are limited options for dining. However, what options there are will not disappoint. Eateries such as My Fat Puku and Pa Beach Cafe are the perfect place to start your day with great coffee and hearty brunch items on the menu. As for the best burgers in town, you cannot beat the Swallow burger shack in Claris. The island also boasts a gin distiller (Island Gin) and beer brewery (Aotea Brewery), both of which you can taste and enjoy on the island. It's always wise to check opening times and book ahead. Some menu items might not be available; running out of supplies is to be expected when most ingredients come from the mainland.
There is so much more to explore and enjoy on Aotea Great Barrier. The nine-hole golf course is a hit and you can pay green fees and hire golf clubs from the local bottle store, The Rocks, in Claris. Fishing and diving are popular activities for visitors and locals alike. All the local fishing charters will know the best fishing spots. And visits to the museum and art gallery in Claris are a must with treasures and tales to be found in both.
Once the sun goes down, things get even better. Aotea Great Barrier is one of only two Dark Sky Sanctuaries in Aotearoa New Zealand. With no light pollution, experiencing this dark sky is something special. The island attracts astronomers and astrophotographers from all over. Local guides at Good Heavens offer a fantastic dark sky experience with wonderful stories and expert knowledge of what lurks out in our universe.
Whether you are considering an outdoors adventure or a relaxing holiday, Aotea Great Barrier Island will not disappoint. The staff at the information centre will be happy to help you plan your island stay or check out the official Aotea Great Barrier website - https://www.greatbarrier.co.nz/
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