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Home / Travel

Kia ora: Whangamomona

By Elisabeth Easther
NZ Herald·
23 Oct, 2014 08:30 PM5 mins to read

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State Highway 43, more commonly known as the Forgotten Highway. Photo / Greg Bowker

State Highway 43, more commonly known as the Forgotten Highway. Photo / Greg Bowker

An unforgettable stop on the Forgotten Highway entrances Elisabeth Easther.

Where is it? On SH43, the Forgotten World Highway, Manawatu-Whanganui - 65km northeast of Stratford, 439km south of Auckland or 374km north of Wellington.

Origin of name: Maori for "bountiful valley" or "stop here, there's plenty to eat".

Population: 150 - 93 men and 57 women, down 18 since the 2006 census.

Town slogan: The Whangamomona Hotel uses "worth the journey", which sums up the place rather nicely.

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Town mascot: There's a carving of Murt Kennard, local garage owner and President of the Republic of Whangamomona since 2005, above the town playground. Virtually lifesize, it's rather impressive.

Presidential sweet: The Republic was established in 1989 when council boundaries were redrawn. Rather than be shunted from Taranaki to Manawatu, the town declared itself a republic. It's working out nicely, thank you very much.

Call the cops: A goat was elected president in 1999. Billy the Kid lasted a couple of terms before dying in office and although no one's been charged, it did look suspicious. Other presidents have included a dog and a Czech shearer.

Famous locals: Gavin Mutch (world shearing champion); Steve and Dan Murphy (top dog trialists).

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Infamous local: President Murt is a bit of a character, although he'd prefer to fly under the radar.

Best website: whangamomonahotel.co.nz and the Republic has a Facebook page.

Biggest business: Farming, increasingly tourism.

Source of pride: Despite being far off the beaten track there's always something going on - shearing, docking, farm business. When visitors go to the pub they only have to ask a local what's happening before they're experiencing farming - Whanga-style.

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Stop in at the pub for a pint and a gossip. Photo / Greg Bowker

Town fiestas: Republic Day every other January is a hoot, and involves woodchopping, gumboot throwing, whip-cracking, passport sales, sheep races, possum skinning, hold-ups and shootouts. The next Republic Day is January 24. Annual events are Whanga Shears, dog trials, pig and critter hunts, an endurance horse ride, raising money for the community.

Sporting chance: Rugby teams from Whangamomona, Strathmore and Toko contest The Dean Cup, the country's second oldest trophy still contested (the older is some minor thing called the Ranfurly Shield). Whanga is the holder; it's displayed at the pub.

So what do people do here? Aside from farming and gossiping, not a lot aside from propping up the bar and meeting fellow locals. A mini-golf course is in the pipeline. Fancy a horse trek? Ask for Ed.

Lately: Forgotten World Adventures (golf cart tours along a disused rail line) has breathed new life into the place; you'd be hard pressed to find a better adventure. Carts run from October to May.

Best place to take the kids: The swimming pools at the campground and the school are cool.

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Best playgrounds: The one opposite the pub has swings, slides and jungle gyms, the school has cool equipment, ditto the campground. Take the nippers eeling on the river or send them out to chase pigs, goats and possums.

Best facilities: Spend a penny at the pub. There are loos at the hall (if it's open) and campground. The council is building some new bogs due to be finished early next year.

Best walk: Head down Whangamomona Rd past the campground; this paper road is open to the public and provides a 55km loop of pastoral walking, cycling or motorcycling. Aotuhia Station is soon to open a cream trail down Tangarakau River.

Best swims: Aside from the two pools, the river has splendid swimming holes. Ask for Weasel, he'll tell you where to go.

Best view: Tahora Saddle, 10 minutes from Whangamomona towards Taumarunui - on a good day you'll see Mt Ruapehu. For bush vistas head to Whangamomona Saddle.

Best walk: Get dropped at the top of the Whangamomona Saddle; the three-hour descent is a delightful meander. Visit Mt Damper Falls, about 40 minutes' drive through Tangarakau Gorge, a super 15-minute walk through farmland to the falls.

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Best place to pull over: Whangamomona Pub, of course.

Best museum: The McCluggage Store was nearly falling down so the Republic bought it for a song. Anything old that comes to light is stuck in there. The pub is also full of old photos and curiosities.

Your worship: The Republic is buying the 90-year-old Anglican church. The graveyard is great for pottering in.

Top shop: The pub was built in 1905 but burned down soon after; the only thing recovered was the coal range. The pub was rebuilt in 1911 around that same coal range.

What goes around comes around: The coal range was to be ditched recently but it's now at the McCluggage Store.

Cream of the coffee: The pub is the only place for a cuppa, but their coffee is genuinely good.

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Baked goods: The pub does outstanding muffins. I learned this first-hand.

Wet your whistle: The pub pulls a mean pint.

Best mountain biking: The Loop Track is a beauty. A track from Taumarunui through Whangamomona to New Plymouth, called the Forgotten World Highway, takes a couple of days and is awesome.

Best adventure: Forgotten World Adventures is the best fun ever.

Best-kept secret: Whangamomona is a secret in itself, happy to be a sleepy little hamlet.

Wildlife: You may spot pigs, possums, deer, eels, emus, alpacas, goats, cows and sheep. Many native birds nest here, too.

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Visitors say: Wow, a genuine one-horse town.

Locals say: What do you mean? Horses outnumber people round here.

Thanks to Gayleen Coplestone for giving us the inside track.

Desktop readers: Click the map below to access our full library of kia ora columns.


Mobile readers: Tap the 'read articles' links below to access our full library of kia ora columns.

Kia ora: North Island

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