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Home / Travel

Kia ora: Palmerston

By Elisabeth Easther
NZ Herald·
20 Nov, 2014 08:30 PM6 mins to read

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The Sir John Mckenzie memorial on Puketapu Hill. Photo / Otago Daily Times

The Sir John Mckenzie memorial on Puketapu Hill. Photo / Otago Daily Times

Otago's gateway is a hip town of vintage shops and nice beaches, says Elisabeth Easther.

Where is it? On the South Island's East Coast, in the Otago district, smack bang between Dunedin and Oamaru on SH1, 54km from the former and 58km from the latter.

Origin of name: Palmerston was named in honour of Lord Palmerston, British Prime Minister 1855-1858.

Population: 801.

Town colours: Green and gold, used by the high school sports teams and the local rugby club.

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Street stories: Most of the street names are from the Orkney Isles: Copinsha St, Ronaldsay St, Kirkwall, Mull, Stronsa, Stromness - named by homesick Scots.

Wireless: The first radio contact between New Zealand and England was made on October 18, 1924, at Shag Valley Station, by Frank Bell, attracting international media attention for being the first round-the-world radio broadcast.

Famous locals: Keith Murdoch (former All Black) and Sir John McKenzie (former Otago MP) - there's a monument on top of Puketapu in his honour.

Best website: Palmerston has a great Facebook page or try tourismwaitaki.co.nz.

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Ore-inspiring: Gold mining is big business. OceanaGold has New Zealand's largest open-cast gold mine, operating 24 hours a day, seven days a week and employing almost 300 people.

Other industries: Farming, Taylor's Lime Works and Glenn Park Eggs.

Local knowledge: Palmerston has a wonderful I-site staffed by locals who love to share the treasures found here.

Source of pride: Palmerston prides itself on being the Gateway to Central Otago, a true junction town between SH1 and SH85 (known as the Pigroot).

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Town fiestas: Every February the Palmerston and Waihemo A&P Show celebrates everything rural; this year was the 130th show. Using the natural arena of the sports ground, there is always lots to see and do, a great day's entertainment. In March there's Tina's two-day equestrian event, celebrating 25 years in 2015 - and it doesn't matter whether you're a learner or a proficient horseperson, there's an event for you.

But wait, there's more: In October, you can join in Kelly's Canter and race on foot to Puketapu Hill's peak and back. Kelly's Canter is named for the constable who was stationed here during World War II. Part of his job was to climb to Puketapu's peak each day to check no enemy ships or subs were approaching.

Former All Black prop Keith Murdoch has links to Palmerston. Photo / Supplied

Here for a short time? Walk up Puketapu or visit the penguins and seals at Anderson's Lagoon. The OceanaGold mine site still has a working gold mining battery from the old days, close to the current mining site.

Best reason to stop: Palmerston is a great place to base yourself while enjoying an Otago holiday. There are so many wonderful things to do, from cycling, walking and horse trekking. There's also great fishing and beautiful beaches within a five-minute drive. Plus they're handy to Dunedin, Oamaru and the Maniatoto.

Kids love: Going to McGregors Bakery & Tearooms/Takeaway for an icecream on a hot day.

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Best park: For the under-fives there's a fenced playground on SH1 at the southern end of town, its a very pretty spot with swings, slides and climbing frames. The bigger kids gravitate towards the skate park (plus playground), also on SH1 at the north end of town. There you'll also find swings, a rock-climbing wall and a witch's hat.

Best walk: Trot up Puketapu, the views are astonishing - right out to sea on one side and over the town and down the valley on the other. Or go to Anderson's Lagoon, drive about five minutes from town, park the car, climb a stile and enjoy walking right out to the beach, it's about 40 minutes each way and not very challenging.

Best view: If you're in Palmerston, gaze up to the peak of Puketapu when it's bathed in afternoon sun, or enjoy the lookout point at the base of Puketapu and survey the town looking through the valley across to the mountains.

Best swim: There's a great covered swimming pool at East Otago High School (public keys available) or in summer you can swim in the Shag River - ask a local for the best bathing spot.

Best museum: The Vintage Machinery Museum at Mill Domain has a wonderful collection of working traction engines that are a big draw at the A&P Show. Or check out Waihemo Heritage Museum on Goodwood Rd for local history, photographs and farming history, too.

Living history: Enjoy the town's historical walk, there are several beautiful stone churches. The cemetery is also fascinating and may hold answers to your genealogical queries.

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Nice arts: Visit the Palmerston Craft Co-op on Sanday St, where you can admire (and buy) beautiful locally produced art and crafts.

Top shop: Design Withdrawals for clothing, jewellery and coffee - open seven days a week.

Cream of the coffee: Design Withdrawals, aside from great coffee it's genuinely groovy.

Baked goods: McGregors Bakery, try its mutton pies or The Coffee Cup Cafe on Ronaldsay Street, it's new and modern with sunny outside seating.

Best food: During the day, hop along to McGregors Bakery, The Coffee Cup Cafe or The Fish and Chip Shop (also on Ronaldsay Street). In the evening have a restaurant meal at Waihemo Lodge (13 Runbrake Street), or head back to the chippie if you'd rather.

Wet your whistle: Waihemo Lodge and the RSA (109 Ronaldsay Street) are both bonza for a beverage.

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Best digs: Pioneer Motel for delightful hosts and clean, comfortable units.

Best mountain biking: Pedal from Macraes Flat to Stoneburn to Taiere Peak to Palmerston - it's a pretty serious ride so you'll want to be prepared for some ups and downs. There are about 10 other routes around here, too, starting at Grade One, and a brochure is being produced by Tourism Waitaki.

Digital fun: If you're fond of geocaching, you'll find a few treasures tucked away in this neck of the woods.

Best kept secret: Trash Converters is a super second-hand shop and has one of the largest collections of Matchbox cars in the country. Also excellent for war memorabilia.

Wildlife: Just five minutes from town you'll find viewing sites for yellow-eyed penguins, little blue penguins, seals and sea lions, and many different native bird species.

Be warned: Do not drive through without stopping - you might miss the adventure of a lifetime.

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Visitors say: Palmerston South? What a novel idea.

Locals say: And not to be confused with that other town in the North Island.

Thanks to a lovely group of Palmerston-ites who were happy to share the secrets of their pretty town - a team effort.

Desktop readers: Click the map below to access our full library of kia ora columns.


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Kia ora: North Island

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