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Home / Travel

Kia ora: Ophir

By Elisabeth Easther
NZ Herald·
8 Oct, 2015 08:30 PM4 mins to read

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The Otago Central Rail Trail has helped to bring Ophir back to life. Photo / Tim Hawkins

The Otago Central Rail Trail has helped to bring Ophir back to life. Photo / Tim Hawkins

Elisabeth Easther finds gold in a charming hamlet in Central Otago.

Origin of name: Originally known as Blacks, the name was changed in 1863 after gold was discovered. The original Ophir was where King Solomon found the gold that covered the famous temple in Jerusalem.

Population: A mere 58, although it rises in the summer months when the cribbies come out to play.

Town slogan: Ophir Awesome.

Town icon: Daniel O'Connell Bridge - it's so beautiful it could be called the Bridge of Sighs.

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So cool: New Zealand's second lowest temperature was recorded here, a nippy -21.6C on July 3, 1995. The locals who grew up here recall how the ink used to freeze in the inkwells at the village school. But it sometimes gets close to 40C in summer, so it all evens out.

Famous locals: David Gawn, New Zealand's Chief of Army, grew up here. Lois Galer, the writer, lives here.

Back in the day: When gold mining boomed, hardy souls lived in tents on the outskirts of town. The poor lived on rabbits and pinched fruit from Ophir's public trees.

Big business: It was originally gold, then farming, but today tourism brings in the bucks.

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An opportunity: The town could do with an updated backpackers' lodge and a caravan park and a laundromat - just saying. There are many B&Bs around here, though.

Source of pride: The community, the people, the buildings and the gorgeous gardens.

Town fiestas: In October, everyone buys potato plants to grow. Then, at Easter, there's a potluck dinner that includes a spud auction - all in aid of improving the town.

Town centre: The hall is the focal point and diversions include monthly movies and occasional fundraisers.

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Who loves it here: Families and people who want to get away from it all. Artists and photographers also love it thanks to the enormous sky and breathtaking landscapes

Best place to take kids: In summer, the local pool, built in the 1920s, is perfect for swimming, the river for fishing and gold-panning. Or bike round town and beyond, down to the bridge and round the lovely loop track.

Best playground: Visit the pre-school where the playground is available for smaller visitors to enjoy.

Best walk: Aside from the town's heritage walk, another sweet stroll goes from centre of Ophir to the bridge, then carry on out of town (as if you're going to Omakau) and walk the loop to Omakau and back.

Best view: In Ophir, climb the hill up the back - yes, it is farmland but the farmer is pretty cool with thoughtful wandering unless it's lambing season.

Best museum: The old post office holds the history.

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Top shop: The Barn is run by a wonderful woman called Sandra who has turned her garage into a shop that sells all manner of vintage delights, arts and crafts. Open from Labour Weekend to Anzac Day. The church also has a second-hand shop but it looks set to become a B&B in the not-too-distant future.

Cream of the coffee: Pitches Store is just divine. Based in a heritage building, this is an oasis of gorgeous.

Baked: Pitches Store again. There's always something new to try.

Best food: Pitches again, everything is delicious, from the black pudding and scallops to, oh, the pork belly.

Whet your whistle: Pitches again, perfect spot for a cheeky mostly local vino or two.

Still thirsty: Blacks Hotel is a charming country pub, built in the 1930s. If you time it right you can enjoy quiz night by a roaring fire, darts or pool competitions. Or how about euchre on Monday afternoons. They also do quality pub food at dinnertime - good solid fare.

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Best mountain biking: The famous Otago Central Rail Trail has helped to bring the town back to life.

Best adventures: Gold-panning, duck-shooting, rabbit-shooting and fishing.

Club together: The golf course over the river at Omakau is a well-loved nine-holer, and it costs only $150 a year to join, plus $15 green fees.

Wildlife: Birds, bees, rabbits, ducks and those pesky rabbits and possums. There's a tiny little native falcon round these parts too - no mouse is safe.

Locals say: The sky, the mountains, the clouds, the geography - stay here long enough and they'll become part of your soul.

The writer's neighbours say: We met on the bridge at Ophir, fell in love and now we're married.

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Thanks to Colleen Hurd.

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