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Home / Travel

Kia ora: Eketahuna

By Elisabeth Easther
NZ Herald·
19 Mar, 2015 08:30 PM5 mins to read

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There is excellent hiking in the Tararua Ranges. Photo / NZME.

There is excellent hiking in the Tararua Ranges. Photo / NZME.

Hiking, fishing, rugby and a giant kiwi draw Elisabeth Easther to a small community that has big spirit.

Where is it? On the banks of the Makakahi River in the Tararua District, 42km north of Masterton.

Origin of name: Settled in 1872, the town was originally called Mellenskov, which is Scandinavian for "heart of the forest" but that was soon changed to Eketahuna, which is Maori for "to land on the sandbank", a reference to this being as far as a waka could be paddled.

Ha ha: Said aloud, the word "Eketahuna", sounds very much like the Afrikaans for "I have a chicken".

Population: 400 in town while the wider district is estimated to sit at about 1200.

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Town slogan: "Get amongst" it or "Kiwi Country".

Town mascot: The giant kiwi, currently painted white to celebrate the recent birth of Valentine the manukura (little white kiwi) at Pukaha Mt Bruce.

Famous locals: Athletics hero Sir Murray Halberg, All Black legend Brian Lahore, tennis player Dan King Turner and shearing champion Dion King.

Infamous local: Dennis "Doc" Dougherty turned down the chance to play for the All Blacks so he could stay with his beloved Eketahuna club - or so the legend goes.

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Big business: Farming keeps people busy - mainly sheep, dairy and deer as well as horse breeding.

Source of pride: The self-reliant spirit. When the last doctor left town, the community set up its own medical centre; when the supermarket pulled out of town everyone clubbed together to open a Four Square, and when the service station and garage burned down the locals set the new one up themselves.

Town fiestas: There's a Pro Am at picturesque Eketahuna Golf Club that's been going 12 years with serious players attending, although mind you don't hit the course's resident sheep. The Christmas Parade and Carols in the Park are popular, too, but the biggest show in town is the rugby. The club's been going for 125 years, fielding four teams and last year won the champs.

Here for a short time? Visit the volunteers at the information centre. They'll tell you where to go, nicely.

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Best reason to stop: Pukaha Mt Bruce is amazing for a close look at New Zealand's flora and fauna, their kiwi breeding programme is going great guns and they have swags of other native birds, eels and tuatara. Talks, bush walks, a cafe and tours, are great ways to spend the day.

Take the kids to: Cwmglyn Farm and Middleton Model Railway just south of town. Colin runs the model railway, one of the largest of its type in New Zealand and his wife, Biddy, with her small herd of Jersey cows, makes and sells outstanding cheese.

Best playground: Behind the library, all the usual malarkey.

A white kiwi welcomes visitors to Ekatahuna. Photo / Linda Feringa
A white kiwi welcomes visitors to Ekatahuna. Photo / Linda Feringa

Best walk: There are lots of walks in the forest park. Drive to the end of Putara Rd, where you'll find a grand walk. It's not a huge climb so you'll need to be nimble rather than fit. The Tararua Ranges have excellent hiking. If you fancy a guided walk, Shona offers excellent itineraries.

Best view: Do the 30-minute Cliff Walk from Bridge St by Parkville Bridge. At the top you'll be rewarded with stunning scenery.

Best place to pull over: Head east towards Alfredton for sweeping views of the ranges.

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Best swim: The outdoor baths are open in warmer months, and they're solar-heated. For a river swim, go to Newman Domain where you'll find swimming holes in Makakahi River, excellent picnic spots, too.

Best museum: Eketahuna Early Settlers Museum is full of interesting things including an extensive photo collection. The Mount Bruce Pioneer Museum is also great, full of old relics associated with farming and domestic life.

Nice arts: Sculpture and painter Mark Dimock has a gallery on High St that's worth a visit. Or stop by at Labour Weekend for the local art forum in the old post office, where local artists show and sell their wares.

Top shop: Maison sells beautiful things for the home as does Sarah Jones next door, where you'll find cool recycled items. Stop by the old hall on Haswell St, full of second-hand treasures.

Cream of the coffee: Addiction, in the main street next to the Four Square - the carrot cake is worth its weight in gold, and there's free wifi.

Feed me: Lady Grey Cafe, run by a handful of farmers' wives, does sensational food, from hearty all-day breakfasts to baking, light lunches and comfort food. They also do a bonza pie.

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Dining out: The Commercial Hotel (42 Main Street) does good quality pub food. At The Club you get a good cheap meal on a Wednesday and a slightly pricier feed on Fridays. They also accommodate campervans.

Wet your whistle: If you fancy imbibing, The Commercial and The Club are both popular watering holes.

Beer essentials: The Tui Brewery, at Mangatainoka, is a short drive north of Eketahuna and attracts 50,000 visitors a year. Tui HQ features the famed Tui tower, the Tuiversity Conference Centre, historic Flagon Room and Tui Cafe. Take a guided tour of the brewery where the welcoming atmosphere makes it popular with locals as well as passersby.

Best adventure: There's heaps of fishing in Mangahao River, the hunting's excellent round here, too.

Word of warning: Don't climb the kiwi. It's a long way to fall.

Visitors say: Where have you been all my life?

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Locals say: Right here in the Eke.

With thanks to K, J and D - tall stories well told.

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