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Home / Travel

Kia ora: Castlepoint

By Elisabeth Easther
NZ Herald·
22 Jan, 2015 08:30 PM5 mins to read

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The lighthouse at Castlepoint. Photo / Supplied

The lighthouse at Castlepoint. Photo / Supplied

Elisabeth Easther finds the perfect place to escape the crowds.

Where is it? On the Wairarapa Coast, an hour's drive from Masterton and 163km from Wellington.

Origin of name: In 1770, Captain Cook took one look at the impressive 162m tall Castle Rock and decided it resembled the battlements of a castle - the name stuck. Maori call the area Rangiwhakaoma, which translates to "where the sky runs".

Population: With 15 permanent households and close to 150 baches the full-time population is small, to say the least.

Town icon: The lighthouse.

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Loving this: The beach at Castlepoint was voted one of the Top 10 Most Loved New Zealand Beaches.

Legendary: There's a wonderful legend about Kupe and a giant octopus. Kupe hunted the gargantuan creature for weeks all over the Pacific and up and down the shores of Aotearoa, and for a time the octopus hid in the cave at Castlepoint.

Best websites: wairarapanz.com and castlepoint.co.nz or try castlepoint.shutterfly.com where the pictures are stunning.

Lest we forget: The first Anzac Day service was held at the tiny town of Tinui, not far from Castlepoint, in 1916, at the Church of the Good Shepherd.

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What do people do? Farming, tourism, fishing, retail and retirement.

Source of pride: The Lighthouse, the DoC reserve and the beautiful beach.

Town fiestas: The Castlepoint Horse Races along the beach are immensely popular and have been running since the 1840s, although formal records began in the 1870s when noted riders competed for bottles of rum and stray coins. This year it's on March 7. There are also fishing competitions, some with quite sizeable purses.

Here for a short time? Walk to the lighthouse, up Castle Rock and along the beach. Catch your breath.

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Best reason to stop: To see some of the most breathtaking scenery you'll find anywhere in the world, and to smell that fresh fresh air.

Kids love: The safe swimming, surfing and body boarding, and fishing in the lagoon for crabs and herring.

Best playground: The beach and the surf, you don't come to Castlepoint for swings and slides.

Best walks: The Deliverance Cove Track (aka Castle Rock walk) is an invigorating walk, passing through pine forests, over bridges and takes about 45 minutes. The Whareama Coastal Walk is two nights and two days, but can be done as a single day, too. It is fully catered and traverses private land. There are loads of other walks that cater to all fitness levels, including the Okau walks.

Best view: From the saddle, up on Castle Rock track; you don't have to go all the way up to enjoy phenomenal scenery.

Best place to pull over: After passing the Whakataki Pub, bear left on Mataikona Rd and after a few kilometres, and at low tide, you can view the outstanding Whakatakai rock formations - genuine geological gems.

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Best swim: Depending on wind and weather conditions, you can choose between the bay and the basin. Be careful, though, the sea can be a bit wild, but it's invigorating.

View over the lagoon. Photo / Destination Wairarapa

Nice arts: Go to Tinui; the craft shop and photo gallery are well worth stopping at.

Floral tribute Look for the rare shrubby Castlepoint daisy, Brachyglottis compactus; the only place in the world that it grows is on the crumbled limestone of the reef and Castle Rock.

Top shop: Castlepoint Store and Tearooms (44 Jetty Road) is on the beachfront and has most things you'll need, including fuel.

Best food: Tinui Cafe & Bar does amazing food, The Whakataki pub is also grand, and don't forget The Berley Pot at the Castlepoint Store.

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Wet your whistle: You've a small handful of choices, from the historic Whakataki Hotel (built in 1896) with its garden bar and playground, to The Gumboot Bar (part of The Berley Pot) or the Tinui Cafe and Bar. If it's views you're after, go for The Gumboot.

A sporting chance: Tinui has three tennis courts, Castlepoint has a nine-hole golf course and it's also ace for fishing, surfing and diving.

Best adventures: Go out to sea, although nobody's doing charters these days so you have to know someone or have your own boat - the commercial fisherman do so well with their cray quotas they don't need to be bothered with tourists.

Job opportunity: Why not move to Castlepoint and start a fishing/diving charter business? Also, the Castlepoint Store and The Whakataki are on the market if you're looking to move.

Oarsome: Kayaking is cool here, especially when there are dolphins in the bay. People also like to jet-ski, but you have to BYO.

Best kept secret: The cave beneath the lighthouse is amazing and accessible only over rocks at low tide, but watch out for that giant wheke (octopus).

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Wildlife: Several dolphin species, fur seals, and some small whale species. Seabirds also love it here with everything from fronted terns, red-billed gulls, and black shags, reef herons and black-backed gulls, gannets and oystercatchers nesting here.

Wind you up: The wind here can be frustrating because when it blows it really blows - so don't forget to pack a kite.

Don't be an idiot: Fur seals might look cute but don't try to pat them or you will regret it.

Locals say: Castlepoint lights up our lives.

Visitors say: What a bright idea it was to come here.

Thanks to Emily Crofoot from Castlepoint Station, a most magnificent ambassador for this fabulous region.

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