Karlovy Vary has spent much of its life within the borders of Germany, where it was known as Carlsbad. According to legend, it got its name in the 14th century when King Charles IV, while hunting, discovered water bubbling out of the ground.
Since then, Europe's royalty have ventured there regularly to "take the waters". Until, that is, after World War II when Czechoslovakia fell into the Soviet orbit and the place became an increasingly rundown destination for a Russian proletariat set on finding miracle cures for a distinctly unhealthy lifestyle.
The Russians still come, but now the rotund ones with roubles to spare are those who have made good from the demise of communism. These nouveau riche make up a large percentage of the guests at the now rejuvenated grand hotels, which stand either in splendid isolation amid the surrounding hills and valleys or straddle the stream that runs down the pretty main street.
Each hotel offers its own speciality treatments, and a bewildering choice of the likes of mineral baths, mudpacks, massages, electrotherapy and pure oxygen inhalation.
Generally, guests stay one to three weeks to get the full going-over, although some spas now cater for walk-in visitors. There are treatments to boggle the mind. Got a dodgy heart? Then carbon oxygen baths - dips in carbonated water - are recommended.
Troubled by diseases of the gallbladder, pancreas or liver? For you, the taking of water from Karlovy Vary's hot mineral springs is combined with hydrotherapeutic treatments such as iodine bath, carbon-dioxide bath and massage.
Those not attracted by the thought of a strong jolt of intestinal purging are free to undertake more mild "cleansing" by sipping the spring water available at 12 locations around Karlovy Vary. The largest of the springs, named Vridlo, gushes up from a depth of 3000m to a height of 12m.
People walking around the town with little drinking cups are a common sight. The water they sample is said to be rich in hydrocarbonate, sulphate, chloride and natrium. It varies between 30C and 72C.
A word of warning, however. "Cleansing" can easily equate to diarrhoea if the taking of the waters becomes too enthusiastic.
Those not in need of a drastic overhaul will quickly find there is far more to Karlovy Vary than its hot springs. In summer it is a hunting, fishing and shooting sort of place. And in winter frequent dumpings of snow add to the splendour of the regal hotels and many beautifully restored baroque and art nouveau buildings.
At all times, this is a town made for promenading. On these strolls, visitors will inevitably come across the glass and crystal for which the Czech Republic is famous. And on the outskirts of Karlovy Vary is the Moser glass factory, which, in terms of furnishing the tables of royalty and the rich and famous, is probably the most celebrated of its manufacturers.
Guided tours of the factory are available for a small fee, and what is on show is an eye-opener - in more ways than the superb quality of the finished product.
Production at the factory has probably changed little since it started in 1857. The male glassblowers go about their work - it is considered too tough for women's lungs - as they always have. The lack of protective clothing or footwear would cause palpitations at Occupational Safety and Health. As would a company policy that lets them drink four bottles of beer a day while on the job.
The Czechs love their beer, and obviously stand by the idea that steady consumption ameliorates the influence of alcohol.
The factory's operation would also cause deep unease at Council of Trade Union headquarters. Moser's master craftsmen are paid only for work that passes quality control - and the company's striving for perfection means a rejection rate of between 40 and 60 per cent.
A museum on the premises and a factory shop bear testimony to the superb fruits of that policy, if not the space to spare in the glassblowers' wallets.
CHECKLIST
Getting there: Cathay Pacific flies to Frankfurt. Lufthansa Airways will fly you on to Prague.
Karlovy Vary is 130 km west of Prague. There is a bus from central Prague which takes a little over two hours. It is also possible to travel by train to Karlovy Vary, however this normally involves a change and can be slower than by bus. For bus and train times online, see idos.cz. It may be worth asking about a Czech Flexipass.
Another transport option is to hire a car which allows more flexibility to explore the countryside along the way.
Accommodation: The Hotel Dvorak is situated in the heart of Karlovy Vary, right on the Tepla River and close to the colonnades. It boasts modern comfort along with in-house spa treatments.
Further information: Contact House of Travel on 0800 838 747.
Kevin Hart's trip to Karlovy Vary was organised by House of Travel with support from Cathay Pacific and Lufthansa.
