Italy's Lake Como a land blessed by heaven

The beauty and allure of Italy's Lake Como are legendary.

"Unequalled on earth for its loveliness," gushed Henri Stendahl. "I do not know of any land so conspicuously blessed by heaven," declared Franz Lizst. "I want nothing more than to live here and die here," exclaimed Gustave Flaubert.

When you experience the magic of Lake Como you'll understand these lofty sentiments. For me, the lake represents the ultimate convergence of nature and art - pristine lake and mountain environment together with old world villas, classical gardens, and picture postcard villages. Add to this pleasant summer weather, pedestrian-friendly villages with few cars, ferryboats as the main form of transport, ancient mountainside hiking trails with stunning views, and we have ingredients for the perfect holiday.

Most of the villas, gardens, and picturesque villages are in the central area of the lake, near Bellagio.

Settling in for the week, my wife and I rented a serviced apartment at Bellagio's Residence La Limonera. This centrally located property has romantic balconies with lake views, private walled-in gardens, and tasteful furnishings. It is thoroughly modern where it counts, with quality bathrooms, air conditioning, cable TV and internet access. And it's good value for money: all inclusive 2006 rates range from 100 to 150 euros (NZ$179-$168) a night.

To our delight we discovered that Bellagio is a food and wine lovers' paradise. Within 100m of La Limonera there are two bakeries, a deli, several wine shops, a fruit market, a health food store and a small grocery. We found incredibly delicious fresh fruits, local cheeses and wines, specialty cold meats and delicacies. We bought eggs stamped with the name of the farm they came from and the date they were laid.

We quickly found our favourite cafe, Pasticceria Rozzi, opposite the ferry dock, where, from the second day, Senora Rozzi knew our drink orders and welcomed us like locals. We walked every little lane, checking out all the shops and restaurants. We spent the necessary time at the tourist office finding out if there were any special events during our stay, and picking up the maps for some spectacular walks.

We completed the Circular walk through the suburbs of Bellagio, which introduced us to the tiny fishing village of Pescallo and led us through the gardens of the stately Villa Melzi. The next day a 15-minute ferry ride took us to the lake's most imposing mansion, Villa Carlotta.

For the rest of our week we settled on four daily itineraries to explore the area:

VARENNA:

For genuine enchantment and historical appeal it's hard to surpass Varenna. Its medieval lakeside buildings of ochre and red set against the deep green mountainside present a scene of unique beauty. We arrived by mid-morning so we could take the circular hike to Castello di Vezio, descending near the Villa Monestero (about two hours). This walk passes the back gardens of locals, many with small orchards, grapevines and large vegetable patches.

On the morning we hiked up the pathway a local woman was coming down laden with a huge basket of grapes. We exchanged greetings and she gave us a large bunch to sample. We pre-booked lunch at the beautiful courtyard restaurant of Villa Cipressi, a historic villa recently converted to a hotel and located next to the Monestero gardens. After a delicious lunch of fresh lake fish, salad and the obligatory glass of wine, we toured the Cipressi and Monestero gardens. A romantic lakeside walkway through the town completed the circle back to the ferry dock.

VILLA BALBIANELLO:

This is often referred to as "one of the most beautiful places on earth". You will need to phone ahead to double check opening hours and reserve a tour. The villa is adjacent to the townof Lenno, 20 minutes by ferry from Bellagio.

We went on a Tuesday in order to shop at the weekly Lenno market, the largest gathering of merchants in the area. Then we enjoyed homemade pasta at Trattoria San Stefano, on the main piazza. After lunch, we walked through the delightful forest park leading to the villa (about 30 minutes) for a scheduled tour in the afternoon.

If you're unable to go on a Tuesday, board the fast ferry to Argegno (leaves Bellagio at 8.14am, arrives 8.35am), take the breathtaking cablecar ride up to Pigia and walk the ancient Roman pathway down to the lakeside village of Ossuccio (allow three hours). After lunch in Ossuccio, take a water taxi to Villa Balbianello (scheduled for about 3pm).

HISTORIC COMO:

Although the city of Como is predominantly commercial and industrial, it has a large and charming historic area filled with stylish shops and trendy restaurants. Because the lake has been popular since Roman days there is much of historical interest, such as the imposing Duomo and the 10th century San Fedele. Porta Vittorio is a surviving remnant of the medieval walls of the city and many of the area's original buildings dated from the 17th century.

We maximised our time for shopping and touring by taking the 8.13am fast ferry to Como (45 minutes). After coffee and pastry at the large cafe on Piazza Cavour, opposite the ferry dock, we explored the narrow streets and piazzas. For lunch, we enjoyed Bar Argentino opposite the Duomo.

After lunch consider taking the funicular up to Brunate for a panoramic view over the city and lake. Or proceed to Cernobbio, an attractive lakeside town only 15 minutes away by ferry and home to one of the world's most famous hotels, the Grand Hotel Villa D'Este. Walking from the ferry dock, we took our time exploring the town's quaint little lanes and shops before arriving at the hotel grounds (a 20-minute walk). Here we lingered over a drink and some nibbles, just as the world's rich and famous have done for centuries. After a leisurely stroll through the gardens, soaking up as much of the opulence as we could, we ambled back to catch the ferry to Como and onward to Bellagio.

SENTIERO DEL VIANDANTE:

This is a spectacular two- to three-hour walk along an ancient mountainside trail. The pathway, mostly under the shade of trees, winds through centuries-old mountainside villages, and along terraced hills of fruit orchards and grapevines. If you want to end with a restful, leisurely lunch at a lakeside restaurant, ferry to Bellano to start the walk so that you'll finish at Varenna, where there are many choices for dining. We wanted to end by crashing on a beach and swimming in the lake, so we finished in Bellano which boasts one of the lake's best beaches.

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NEED TO KNOW

Getting to Bellagio: About an hour by train from Milan's central station to Varenna-Essino (destination Tirano), then 20 minutes by ferry to Bellagio.

Where to stay: Residence La Limonera (www.residencelalimonera.com), Ph 39-031-952124 is the best. Or try Residence L'Ulivo (www.residencelulivo.it), Ph 39-031-956434.

Where to eat: The romantic La Pergola Restaurant, a delightful 15-minute walk away in Pescallo, is our favourite. In town, Bilacus, on Salita Serbelloni, offers atmospheric outside dining under the grape arbours.

Getting around: Save time and money with a seven-day, mid-lake ferryboat pass, and travel like a local (www.navigazionelaghi.it).

Recommended walks: Maps of a number of circular walks are available from the Bellagio Tourist Office, including one through the suburbs of Bellagio, Varenna.

Day trips: The historic hilltop town of Bergamo is a scenic two-hour drive away. The bus ride along the Lecco stretch of the lake is particularly scenic. Alta Citta and the hamlet of San Vigilio are appealing as is the regional cuisine specialising in risotto and polentas.