Loaghtan sheep graze at Cregneash, part of the island's unique wildlife. Photo / Supplied
The Isle of Man is often considered quiet and uneventful, but this small island packs in adventure, history and raw natural beauty, writes Ben West.
The only word for it is terrifying. At certain points, the driver reaches speeds of nearly 150km/h on one of the Isle of Man’s most beautiful rural highways, the A18 Snaefell mountain road. Weaving through the open countryside and rugged mountains at top speeds, I’d enjoy gazing at the stunning panoramas – if they weren’t reduced to a blur.
Fortunately, he’s driven this route from the capital, Douglas, to Ramsey, numerous times before and knows its pesky corners and other spots to slam on the brakes. It’s part of the famous TT motorcycle racing course that has brought fame (and with riders hurtling past at up to 320km/h, a significant number of fatalities) to the island since 1907.
The next day, I discover secret coves and caves and beautiful sandy beaches during a thrilling sea kayaking session, and an exhilarating if bracing mountain trail the day after that.
My action-packed days may be surprising to those who consider the Isle of Man as nothing more than a boring, sleepy little British crown dependency marooned in the Irish Sea.
The reputation is understandable; the isolated island is just 53km long by 21km wide, with 86,000 residents and a slow pace of life. However, a lack of bustling cities certainly doesn’t mean a lack of thrills or unique adventures.
Certainly, you want to get out exploring as much as you can here, as the landscapes are stunning; a varied land of beaches and high moors, wooded vales, tucked-away villages and busy seaside resorts. The area feels reminiscent of rural Scotland, Cornwall and Ireland and there are plenty of hiking and biking trails and motoring routes in which to discover them. With 40% of the island uninhabited, you’re likely to find real wildernesses.
The Raad ny Foillan coastal path is recommended, while the peak of Snaefell, the island’s highest at 2000ft, on a clear day provides panoramic views of what is known as the seven kingdoms: the British Kingdoms – the Isle of Man, England, Ireland, Scotland and Wales – plus Heaven and the Sea (or Neptune).
Ancient ruins, waterfalls and secluded coves are nestled among the 18 national mountain and coastal glens, and the diverse wildlife includes dolphins, basking sharks, seals and even wallabies, and 336 species of birds have been spotted too.
The Isle of Man’s richness and diversity of nature led to the island being made a Unesco Biosphere in 2016, which makes it the only entire nation in the world to have such a designation.
It is classed as a nation as it is a self-governing British Crown Dependency rather than part of the UK, which means that it’s a possession of the British Crown, not the UK itself. It has its own parliament, government and laws, with the UK covering its defence and international relations. Its parliament, the Tynwald, was established by the Vikings and is the world’s oldest, and also the first national parliament to give women the vote, in 1881.
Its inhabitants are British citizens, and the King of the UK is also the Lord of Mann, the hereditary head of state. Can’t deny it’s a bit confusing!
As for cultural heritage, the Isle of Man sits upon Celtic and Norse foundations and there’s plenty to see here if you love a historical deep dive.
Highlights include the 2000BC Cashtal yn Ard Neolithic site, a 10th-century AD Viking boat burial at Balladoole, and Castle Rushen, a Viking castle at Peel. Douglas’ surprisingly large Manx Museum gives a fascinating overview of the island’s history, everything from Norse kings to the TT races.
I enjoy looking at the night sky in the Isle of Man. I know little about astronomy but when you are unaccustomed to huge swathes of stars because of light pollution where you live, stargazing here is transfixing.
The island boasts 26 officially recognised Dark Sky Discovery Sites, meaning that the Milky Way is clearly visible, cloud permitting. The island’s low population density and lack of major built-up areas mean light pollution is so low there are clear views of astronomical sights like the Orion Nebula, distant planets, and sometimes even the Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis). The best chance of seeing the Northern Lights is during September and March.
After several days of hiking, kayaking, cycling and car racing, I need a quiet day of calm. I opt for a gentle ride on two of the island’s three scenic heritage railways. Riding in an antique wooden carriage connected to an elderly steam train proves to be a delightful if slightly noisy journey past woods and lush green fields, with the sea beyond. Launched in 1873 and the longest narrow-gauge steam line in Britain that still uses its original locomotives and carriages, it runs from Douglas to Port Erin. It inspired the Rev. W. Awdry, who visited in 1950, to write his Thomas the Tank Engine stories.
I also hop aboard the island’s immaculately preserved Manx Electric Railway, which started in 1893 and still runs on its original line, making it the oldest continuously used electric railway in the world. Rather like a tram, it links Douglas to the historic port town of Ramsey, via Laxey, home of the largest working water wheel in the world. Bona fide historic railway enthusiasts can also sample the Snaefell Mountain Railway, an electric railway connecting Laxey with Snaefell’s peak, although two heritage railway journeys in one day is definitely enough for me.
A nice end to the day is to sample some Manx spirits at Ramsey’s Fynoderee Distillery, which blends locally-grown and hand-foraged botanicals to produce premium gin, vodka and rum (with single malt soon to come), with beautifully intricate illustrated labels celebrating the island’s folklore.
As I sip a refreshing Fynoderee gin and tonic, reflecting on my jam-packed week in the Isle of Man, a stirring breeze keeping the struggling sun in check, it seems inexplicable that many people, especially in the UK, dismiss visiting this magical isle.
The writer was hosted by Visit Isle of Man.