Fiji’s Yasawa Islands offer untouched beaches, deep coral reefs and a chance to embrace a slower pace of life in our own Pacific backyard. Hopping on and off boats between the resorts dotted on the Yasawa Islands is fun and the best way to travel, writes Eva de Jong.
Anyone who has lugged a suitcase around the crowded streets of Europe in 40C heat on their way to a different hotel, city and surroundings for a night knows how exhausting travel can be. Time spent in an airport, waiting lounge or at a crowded train station is usually the worst part of a trip.
That’s not the case with the Yasawa Islands. This collection of 20 small volcanic islands marooned in the Pacific Ocean may be thrillingly remote, but travel between them takes just 20-30 minutes by boat. Even better, hopping between destinations isn’t an unavoidable chore but a delightful part of the trip.
Each day, I wake up and head to a new location on board the South Sea Cruises ferry. The Fijian workers easily lob our suitcases onto the silver tenders that race out to meet the ferry as it zooms past. An important note for this kind of travel: you’ve got to stay on your toes because the ferry doesn’t hang around.
I visit five islands in one week and love every one. In the rich tropical landscape of the Yasawa Islands, there is no way to avoid the softening of your shoulders and the sudden heavy feeling of relaxation.
On Kuata Island, home to Barefoot Kuata Island Resort, the rocky volcanic peaks loom above the milky-green sea. At 9pm, people are still floating on their backs in the ocean and the cliff face glows a soft pink. All sense of time is lost.
Travelling in Fiji will have this effect; it’s surprising how often things work out when you don’t stress over them: no hurry, no worry.
An abundance of reef sharks and manta rays in Yasawa’s waters draws keen divers from around the world, and while I don’t dive, I do take a short boat ride to a snorkel spot in the deep reef surrounding Vomo Island, a luxurious private island resort.
In the bright ocean, I watch an octopus cling to a piece of frilly coral and blend into the pastel pink colour. It floats upwards, its tentacles flaring outwards, then dissolves again into the surroundings. I lose sight of it, and it disappears into the depths.
Anywhere you go in the Yasawa Islands, the sticky humidity makes for long, warm evenings where you can wear a singlet, drink a cold Fiji beer or pina colada and watch the low red sun slip below the horizon from your bure.
There are bursts of sudden rain that drench the palm trees and leave hundreds of swollen mangoes floating in a pool of water on the lawn. I pick up a ripe one and cram the sticky flesh into my mouth. At night, I listen to the thundering rain and picture the mangoes all falling to the ground in a chorus - thud, thud, thud.
The filming of Blue Lagoon and luminous eyes of Brooke Shields first sent a flurry of American tourists in search of this deep turquoise landscape. The continuing presence of tourists in Fiji has created a complex relationship.
On Waya Island, during a wonderful stay at Octopus Resort, Chief Autiko Livinai Ratu of Nalauwaki village explains how resorts offer isolated villages resources such as access to clean drinking water. However, tourists can damage reefs by wearing copious sunscreen and walking over precious corals, which threatens the fragile marine landscape that many locals rely on as a food source.
Now, many resorts are also investing in coral re-growth schemes and efforts to protect marine species to try to better preserve the reefs.
The Pacific landscape offers time to forget the rush of everyday life, get away from a screen and be at peace.
On morning walks, I pause to study the red hibiscus flowers scattered on the path and crisp petals of the frangipani trees with their thumbprints of yellow. There’s no doubt that these islands are precious, and being a tourist in this natural beauty is a privilege.
There are other ways to unwind, too. Most resorts offer luxurious spa treatments and an array of mineral facials or massages, or the chance to have your body wrapped in seaweed or scrubbed with mud and papaya.
Island hopping in Fiji is a perfect combination of adventurous travel within the serene and relaxing landscape of the Pacific.
Fiji, Yasawa Islands
GETTING THERE
Fly direct from Auckland to Nadi via Fiji Airways. Take the South Sea Cruises ferry to the Yasawa Islands.
DETAILS
New Zealand Herald Travel travelled courtesy of Fiji Airways and Tourism Fiji.