Prasat Phanom Rung in Buriram province. Photo / 123rf
Skip the crowds and visit Isan, Thailand’s hidden northeast, where ancient temples, fiery cuisine and slow village life hide along the Mekong, writes Poonam Binayak.
While most visitors tick off Thailand’s headline destinations (think Bangkok, Chiang Mai and the southern islands), those seeking an undiscovered side of Thailand should head northeast to Isan.
Spread across 20 provinces bordering Laos and Cambodia, Isan (pronounced ee-saan) is Thailand’s largest region but one of its least visited. Rural and deeply traditional, it’s a place where rice farming, silk weaving and fishing still shape everyday life and tourist numbers are low, leaving space to explore at your own pace. English is not widely spoken, but patience is rewarded with genuine interactions and discoveries – ancient temples, stunning geological eccentricities, and a cuisine unlike anywhere else in the country.
For travellers interested in history and archaeology, Isan has plenty to offer. In Udon Thani province lies Ban Chiang, a Unesco World Heritage Site where excavations in the 1960s revealed red-painted pottery and tools dating back over 4000 years – among the earliest evidence of Bronze Age civilisation in Southeast Asia. There is a small museum on site displaying these finds.
Further south, the region’s Khmer-era temples rival those of Cambodia in detail if not in fame. The standout is Prasat Phanom Rung in Buriram province, built between the 10th and 13th centuries atop a dormant volcano. The sandstone complex is aligned with the rising sun – four times a year, light pours straight through all 15 doorways in perfect symmetry, illuminating the main sanctuary dedicated to the Hindu deity Shiva.
Also worth visiting is Phimai Historical Park in Nakhon Ratchasima (often called Korat), home to one of Thailand’s largest Khmer temple complexes. Though originally a Mahayana Buddhist site, its intricate carvings depict Hindu deities and celestial figures. Walk through its towering prang (spires) and you’ll see echoes of Angkor Wat, yet without the crowds.
Isan’s natural scenery is as distinctive as its history. One striking site is Phu Kradueng National Park in Loei province. Rising to 1316m, the climb to the summit is demanding, but the view from the top – pine forests, sandstone cliffs, and sweeping plains – makes the effort worthwhile.
Further northeast, in Bueng Kan province, Thailand’s youngest (formed in 2011), nature takes on a more unusual form. The province’s best-known landmark, Three Whale Rock (Hin Sam Wan), consists of three giant boulders shaped like a family of whales rising from the forest canopy. From their tops, the panoramic view across the Mekong River to the hills of Laos is extraordinary.
In the south, Pha Taem National Park in Ubon Ratchathani province offers a blend of natural and archaeological wonders. Set on a cliff high above the Mekong, the park features rock paintings – scenes of catfish, rice paddies, and hunters – believed to be around 4000 years old. Nearby trails lead to viewpoints and waterfalls, making it ideal for both hikers and history enthusiasts.
For a different glimpse into the region’s past, head to Phu Wiang National Park in Khon Kaen, where Thailand’s first dinosaur fossils were discovered. The park’s nature trail takes visitors to real excavation sites, while the Phu Wiang Dinosaur Museum displays reconstructed skeletons and models that explain how these finds reshaped understanding of the area’s prehistoric ecology.
The Mekong River – one of the great rivers in the world – runs along the region’s eastern edge, shaping much of its identity. In Chiang Khan, a charming riverside town in Loei, restored wooden shophouses and quiet laneways recall the Thailand of decades past and evenings are best spent walking or cycling along the riverfront promenade while the sun sets over the water.
Farther south, Nakhon Phanom offers a slower pace along the Mekong. The town’s riverside promenade is popular with cyclists, offering clear views across to Laos. Small communities of Vietnamese origin live here, descendants of families who arrived during the mid-20th century from Indochina. Visitors can sample local dishes influenced by these communities or take a boat ride along the river.
If there is one reason to travel to Isan, it is the food. Bold, fiery and sour, Isan cuisine is one of Thailand’s most widely recognised regional cuisines, influencing menus from Bangkok to New York. In 2023, TIME magazine named Isan one of the World’s Greatest Places, noting its rich culinary traditions.
Must-try dishes here include som tam (papaya salad) in Loei province, known for its extra punchy pla ra (fermented fish sauce); duck larb (a salad of finely chopped protein with herbs and aromatics) in Udon Thani province; and Gai Yang (grilled chicken served with som tam and sticky rice) and ‘crying tiger’ steak with a spicy dipping sauce in Khon Kaen.
The easiest way into Isan is via Bangkok. From there, domestic flights connect to Udon Thani, Khon Kaen, or Ubon Ratchathani, while buses and trains are also options.
Attractions in the region are spread out, and public transport is limited, so it’s best to rent a car in Bangkok.