Aerial view of terraced fields of rice near the foothills of Rinjani mountain in Lombok. The island is full of volcanoes, rice fields and uncrowded coastlines. Photo / 123rf
Everyone’s heard of Bali. But despite lying just a two-hour boat ride to the east, Lombok remains a mystery to many travellers, writes local Leyla Rose.
Affectionately nicknamed “Bali’s little sister”, Lombok has all the beautiful nature of Bali – beaches, rainforests, paddy fields and mountains – but with none of the crowds and crazy traffic. I was born and raised here and, after a brief six-year stint abroad, I’m now back living on the island.
The most well-known place in Lombok is the Gilis, which are three small, motor vehicle-free islands off the northwest coast. Tourists often mistake them as part of Bali, largely because of the direct speedboats between the two. But even then, it’s only Gili Trawangan (the largest island known for its party scene) that I would consider “super touristy”. Gili Air is much more low-key, with fewer bars and quieter beaches. It’s my favourite of the three, with plenty of great dining options. Meanwhile, Gili Meno is dubbed the “honeymoon island” for its peaceful serenity.
On the south coast of Lombok, the town of Kuta is the main tourist hotspot (not to be mistaken for the notorious party city in Bali). I remember when it was just a sleepy village where surfers and backpackers went. Nowadays, it’s the most-visited place in Lombok, with new villas, boutique hotels and restaurants constantly popping up. Part of the reason for this growth is Kuta’s proximity to Lombok’s international airport, just a 30-minute drive away. Another reason is the development of an international racetrack, built as part of the Government’s “5 New Balis”, a plan to diversify tourism beyond Bali.
Despite the boom in visitors, Kuta remains quiet compared to Bali. Surrounding the town are miles of stunning coastline, with everything from huge stretches of white sands to secluded coves. Some beaches, such as Tanjung Aan and Selong Belanak, are more popular than others, but even they are never crowded. Most of the time, you’ll enjoy beaches all to yourself and, despite its growth, it’s still a top surf destination.
For somewhere a little more laid-back, the town of Senggigi on the west coast is the OG beach resort. It experienced its heyday in the 90s/early 2000s, when it was popular for everyone from backpackers to families and older travellers. Although it’s less visited now, there’s still plenty to love, with a good selection of restaurants and resorts, and easy access to markets in the main city of Mataram. For somewhere even quieter, just a five-minute drive up the coast from Senggigi is the village of Mangsit, where large hotels line the long stretch of beach. A further 45 minutes north is the peaceful Sira Beach with its upscale resorts like The Sira, Oberoi and Tugu Lombok.
The north of Lombok is dominated by Mt Rinjani, Indonesia’s second-highest volcano at 3726m. This active volcano is a popular choice for keen hikers, with routes that take between two and four days, depending on the length. The scenery is worth the challenge, with temperate rainforest, a beautiful crater lake and views of surrounding islands from the peak.
Those less keen on hiking can visit Sembalun, a town at the bottom of the mountain and a starting point for the trek. There are easier day hikes and viewpoints here, as well as easy walks through the network of fields growing everything from strawberries to carrots and chillies. Also nearby is Senaru, an alternative starting point also known for its two waterfalls, Sendang Gile and Tiu Kelep. These can also be visited as part of a day trip from Senggigi, which is about a two-hour drive away.
If you want to slow down, Lombok provides opportunities for that too. Tetebatu is a personal favourite that I always recommend to visitors. Nestled in the verdant valleys at the foot of Mt Rinjani, this village in central Lombok is, quite literally, a breath of fresh air. There isn’t much by way of tourist infrastructure – there are a few homestays and local cafes, but that’s all you need. It’s very much an agricultural village, surrounded by terraced rice paddies and vegetable fields. After waking up early, take a stroll along the paths that wind through the fields, watching the sun rise from behind the volcano and lighting up the land in a soft golden glow. Then, head into the Monkey Forest to spot the elusive black langur, and end your walk with a swim at the picturesque Sarang Walet Waterfall.
To discover Lombok’s best-kept secret, head for the “Secret Gilis”. This collection of islands off Lombok’s southwest coast sees only a tiny fraction of the visitors to the Gili Islands, making it a tranquil beach escape. My favourite island is Gili Asahan, where there are only a handful of resorts, such as Pearl Beach Resort, dotted along the beach, while another island with good accommodation options is Gili Gede. It never fails to blow my mind just how stunning the crystal-clear waters surrounding these islands are – for some of the best snorkelling and scuba diving in Lombok, one of the activities you can’t miss is an island-hopping boat trip from one spot to another.
Of course, there are compromises to be made. Lombok is a predominantly Muslim island, so you won’t find the same Hindu culture with its many temples and colourful ceremonies. There’s also much less of a party scene, and shopping tends to lean more towards traditional markets and local handicrafts than upscale boutiques and malls. But if you’re willing to trade that for a more laid-back experience, Lombok should be your next travel destination.