Market St in Kinsale. Photo / David Creedon
Everyone dreams of celebrating St Patrick’s Day in the land where it all began. Why not go beyond the capital and get off the beaten track in Kinsale? It’s a riot of colour, easygoing vibes, history and gastronomy, writes Shikha Shah.
At some point in our lives, we’ve all had a gorgeous photograph inspire us to visit a destination.
One of the oldest and most photogenic towns in Ireland is the medieval fishing port of Kinsale (from the Irish, Ceann tSaile – “Head of the Sea”) and, from the moment I saw a postcard, it was love at first sight. Kinsale’s pop-coloured streetscape, on the southwest coast of Ireland in County Cork, was screaming to be explored.
For all those Ireland-bound in 2023 and beyond, don’t overlook this little gem. It’s well worth a day trip or a weekend getaway, especially if you’re someone who appreciates life in the slow lane. Here’s everything you can do in the small seaside town.
Roam the ancient streets bursting with colour
There’s a good reason Ireland is synonymous with the “Emerald Isle”. The drive to Kinsale from Cobh, sitting at the starting point of the 2500km Wild Atlantic Way, is akin to a long, green quilt dotted with small towns and villages.
Arriving in town, visitors are greeted with a beautiful mural created by local artist Audrey Cantillon and a handsome yachting harbour. Make this your starting point for a self-guided walking tour through Kinsale’s maze of narrow winding streets.
Building facades in eye-popping colours look as fresh as a first lick of paint and undeniably add to the town’s charm and personality. Albeit compact, many of these buildings are home to Kinsale’s wealth of art galleries, craft shops, and bookstores as well as creaky old pubs, restaurants and cafes with outdoor seating.
Step into the past
For a tiny fishing village, Kinsale boasts an interesting past. Start your heritage trail at Desmond Castle, a classic, three-story rock tower house located on Cork St. This circa 15th-century structure has worn many hats over the years including serving as a Customs House, an arsenal before the Battle of Kinsale and a naval prison for the French prisoners of war. Today, it houses the International Museum of Wine. Step inside and learn stories about “Irish Wine Geese” and emigrant Irish families who, from the 17th century onwards, engaged in the global trade of wine and spirits.
To feel a sense of peace, spend a few minutes at the 800-year-old St Multose Church. A striking stone structure, much of its exterior, including the impressive bell tower, is well-preserved. Fine stained-glass work by Irish artist Kate O’Brien as well as an interior boasting tile flooring, beautiful timber ornaments and carved memorials. There’s also a carved flat stone that fishermen’s wives would rub in the olden times, praying for their husband’s safe homecoming.
Reserve an hour or two to undertake the Scilly Walk - a well-signposted, easy and enjoyable 6km loop walk along the glistening water’s edge. Start at The Spaniard, an atmospheric thatched-roof pub, and make sure to go all the way up to Charles Fort, a star-shaped 17th-century fortress that was built to guard the Kinsale harbour. Stroll back to town from High Rd, also considered the “Golden Mile” or “Millionaire’s Row” because of its string of luxurious homes.
The trail is peppered with an array of inviting pubs, cafes, and restaurants, like the Bulman Bar and Robinson Crusoe-inspired Man Friday, where you can grab a pint and some pub grub. Alternatively, sit outside and keep your eyes peeled for interesting sea life such as dolphins, seals, cormorants and herons. Located directly across the harbour from Charles Fort, the pentagonal James Fort - a striking example of 17th-century military architecture - is another must-visit.
Consider a ramble around the Old Head of Kinsale, a headland that extends out into the Atlantic Ocean for 3km. With its rugged beauty and breathtaking coastal panorama, this walk is a slice of wild Cork. Highlights include the 3rd-century Old Head Castle, lighthouse and RMS Lusitania Museum and view tower dedicated to the British liner that was torpedoed in 1915 by a German U-boat.
If you’ve heard of Kinsale’s reputation for being the “gourmet capital of Ireland”, it’s time to give it a taste. On the culinary front, Kinsale has it all, from farmers’ markets loaded with organic local produce, renowned chocolatiers selling handmade chocolates and Michelin-starred restaurants, not forgetting a revered craft beer scene, countless homely pubs and bistros, and arguably the best seafood chowder in Ireland.
Bite into Kinsale’s gourmet present
Start with a hearty breakfast at OHK Cafe, a breakfast bar run by two sisters in the O’Herlihy family home. With a menu featuring ingredients from local producers, think pots of tea, strong coffee and hot pastries. A cheerful cafe and book exchange, Poet’s Corner is your go-to spot if you’re craving a cup of coffee alongside a toasted sandwich and a good read.
Head straight to Bastion for small, artistic plates. It’s a Michelin-awarded restaurant with both a seven-course and five-course tasting menu. For seafood that is local, fresh and seasonal, Fishy Fishy is a no-brainer. Adorned with photographs of local fishermen who supply the catch, the main restaurant serves delicious chowder, local oysters, pan-fried scallops, local lobster and fish pies. Weather permitting, a little outdoor picnic might suit your agenda, in which case pack a few portions of fish and chips from Dino’s, located right on the harbour.
Finish with a creamy pint of Guinness (of course!) by the fire at Dalton’s, a favourite among the locals, or soak up the craic over craft beer and live music at Kitty O’Se’s. For wine and charcuterie lovers, there is the Black Pig’s wine garden which comes with a cosy lit courtyard. It offers 200 wines by the bottle and 100 by the glass, with a focus on organic, biodynamic and natural wines.
You can’t leave Kinsale without sampling mead, the world’s oldest alcoholic drink made by fermenting honey, at Kinsale Mead Co, Ireland’s first meadery in 200 years. Book the distillery tour for mead tastings and insight into mead food pairings.
Full of treasures, Kinsale is more than a feast for the eyes. Quirky, characterful and lively, the dapper little town will woo you in the span of a few hours.
Getting there
Kinsale is a 50-minute drive from the seaport town of Cobh in County Cork. Dublin to Kinsale by car takes approximately three hours.
Getting around
There is no public transport in Kinsale but it’s small enough to get around on foot.
Stay
Trident Hotel Kinsale enjoys an enviable position on the waterfront, with stunning views from expansive windows. For self-catering options, see Curragh Farm Lodges.
Discover more of Ireland’s hidden gems at ireland.com/en-nz/
Opinion: Weta collaborations and wide spaces make the possibilities endless, and complex.