Waitomo caves.
A new book on the caves of New Zealand and the intrepid Kiwis who explore them is shining new light on our subterranean wonderland, as Sarah Ell discovers.
There's something about a cave that excites the imagination: what lies beneath the earth, hidden in the dark? While "trolls" and "weta" may be the first two things that spring to mind, a new book by cavers Marcus Thomas and Neil Silverwood reveals much more. Caves: Exploring New Zealand's Subterranean Wilderness, tells the stories of New Zealand's world-famous and lesser-known caves, and the committed spelunkers who push themselves to the limit while plumbing their depths.
When Weekend talks to photographer Silverwood, he has just returned from a week crawling around in caves on Mt Owen in the Kahurangi National Park photographing nesting kea - who turned out to be not nesting yet, necessitating a return trip - for New Zealand Geographic magazine. He says the aim of the book is to change people's ideas about caves.
"There is a perception that caves are nasty, grim places full of spiders and ready to collapse at any second," he laughs. "Or people say 'I'm claustrophobic, I could never do that' or 'what if there's an earthquake?' We wanted to show people how wonderful caves are. They can be incredibly beautiful, and are a medium for adventure." New Zealand is quite a cavey place. Silverwood says the largest enclosed space in New Zealand is underground - a 100m-wide passage in the Mt Owen system.
Silverwood was introduced to caving by his father and when he found a new cave at the age of 14, he was truly bitten by the bug.
"I just got hooked on that feeling of exploration - to be the first person in a new passage is as good as life gets. Making the first footprints, shining the first light: one of the people in the book says it's like a drug - once you've had it you just want more and more and more."
To get a taste of life underground, Silverwood recommends taking a commercial trip at a site like Waitomo, where all equipment and guiding is provided, so "it's a safe experience but still an adventure". For those more seriously interested, the New Zealand Speleological Society has branches in Auckland and other main centres, and runs regular get-togethers.
For Silverwood, the attraction comes not only from the sense of exploration, but also the camaraderie of the community of cavers. About 350 people belong to the society nationwide, with a low turnover of members: it's a sport for life, Silverwood says.
"I've been caving for 25 years and I can remember every time I have been caving. It's a fantastic sport and we want to show people that."
For those wanting to try a taste of caving, there are several DoC-managed sites and privately owned caves around the Northland-Auckland-Waikato region that can be explored. Take a torch - a head-torch if possible, to keep your hands free - and keep an eye out for orcs.
KAWITI CAVES, WAIOMIO:
Just south of Kawakawa is the turn-off to the Kawiti glow-worm caves, on privately owned Maori land. The Kawiti family run guided tours of the 200m-long limestone caverns, on a boardwalk. (kawiticaves.co.nz)
ABBEY CAVE, WHANGAREI:
The three Abbey Caves, Organ, Middle and Ivy, on the outskirts of Whangarei, offer glow-worms and stalactites. The reserve area also includes limestone outcrops, bluffs, and some nice native bush to wander through.
WAIPU CAVES, WAIPU:
A good place to break a journey north, the Waipu Caves contain some of the largest stalagmites in the country. There's also a nice 2km walk through the limestone landscape from the caves carpark.
RANGITOTO LAVA CAVES:
Near the summit of Rangitoto are a series of gnarly lava tunnels and caves created by the volcano's eruption.
WHATIPU SEA CAVES, WAITAKERE RANGES:
Although now a long way from the tideline, the caves along the Whatipu cliff-face were carved out by the sea. Used during the timber-milling era, one was even used a dance-hall in the early 1900s.
NIKAU CAVE, WAIKARETU:
Owned by the Woodward family, these caves can be viewed only by 90-minute guided tour - but what a tour. Be prepared to get wet and muddy, and to be amazed. There's also a great cafe and accommodation on site. (nikaucave.co.nz)
WAITOMO CAVES, KING COUNTRY:
The "big daddy" of North Island caves, the Waitomo area has long been a tourist attraction. Three caves are open to the public: the main-glow worm cave with its subterranean lake, Ruakuri and Aranui.
You can also go black-water rafting, or stay at night in the historic Waitomo Caves Hotel. Further down Te Anga Rd is the Mangapohue Natural Bridge - not a cave per se but a groovy limestone gorge where fossils can be found - and the Piripiri cave, on DoC land. (www.waitomo.com)
As well as the caves talks, here are six things to look forward to at next weekend's Going West Books and Writers Festival:
1. NZ poetry by the likes of Hone Tuwhare, Bill Manhire, Alistair Campbell and James K Baxter is set to music in an evening which also includes new poet laureate Selina Tusitala Marsh and Rod Oram as the Sir Graeme Douglas Orator. Small Holes in the Silence, Friday, September 8.
2. Manhire plays tour guide through NZ poems set to music by Norman Meehan. They'll speak with poet Paula Green about the challenges of putting words to music. Words and Melody, Saturday, September 9.
3. It's yet to be published but Diana Wichtel's deeply personal family story Driving to Treblinka is bound to be one of the most talked-about NZ books of the year. She talks with Steve Braunias. Lost Somewhere in Between, Saturday.
4. Writer Colin Hogg hit the road to see what moral decline had descended upon those parts of the US where cannabis is now legal. Hogg speaks with journalist Russell Brown about what he discovered. Hit the High Road, Sun, Sept 10.
5. Ockham New Zealand Book Awards Acorn Foundation Fiction Prize winner, Catherine Chidgey, discusses The Wish Child, her fourth novel. Alchemy from Ashes, Sun, Sept 10.
6. A thriving showcase of 'zines, handmade books and limited-edition publications take centre stage at the Indie Book Fair, Te Uru Waitakere Contemporary Gallery, Sunday. Don't forget to check out the exhibition in the Asia-Pacific Century which looks at the changing face of NZ.
• Full Going West Books and Writers Festival programme goingwestfest.co.nz Note " the venue for most festival events has moved from the Titirangi Memorial Hall to West Auckland's Civic Building, 6 Henderson Valley Rd.
• Caves: Exploring New Zealand's Subterranean Wilderness, Marcus Thomas and Neil Silverwood, Whio, $79.99
• Thomas and Silverwood will discuss the book at next weekend's Going West Books and Writers Festival, Sunday, September 10, 9.15-10am
'We can make three days feel like a week,' one expert said.