Glacier Bay, Alaska. Photo / Katie Harris
Coming from Te Waipounamu, New Zealand’s South Island, I thought I knew mountains.
I grew up in the shadow of the Southern Alps, hiked the closest peak to Aoraki Mt Cook you can scramble up without ice axes, swam in glacial waters, and slept in ice caves. So I know snow.
But embarking on a sea journey around Alaska and the inside passage proved I was very, very wrong.
It’s really the scale of the Alaskan mountains and coastline that knocks the wind out of you.
Each morning, you’re hit with another postcard-perfect view. Another glacier lumbering down a grand slope. Another eagle soaring over peaks to find its latest prey.
It’s like seeing a dozen Mt Ruapehus every time you glance port-side and I really started to question things on day two of my journey on Viking Venus from Seward, Alaska to Vancouver. Surely, the mountains could not keep going?
But they just came quicker and faster. Glaciers as far as the eye can see. And you never get sick of them.
Prior to embarkation, I hadn’t really considered myself a cruise person. Sure, I could appreciate the beauty of crossing borders without the severe jet lag. But being cooped up with 900 other guests for 11 days as we flitted in and out of ports felt slightly intimidating.
Yet within a few days of the voyage, I could see what all the fuss was about.
Firstly, there was the camaraderie. Typically, travelling for me does not come with hundreds of inbuilt companions. Yet each day while cruising with Viking felt like an opportunity to form bonds with travellers from around the globe.
The endless options of daily excursion buddies almost made me forget I was travelling solo.
One of the most exciting parts of cruising Alaska was the frequency at which we were called to the outer decks to witness some of nature’s greatness.
Be it a unique mountain range, whale spotting or a new glacier, the crew made sure to keep us abreast of when we needed to get our cameras out.
The beauty of Alaska by sea is that the wildlife watching comes all-inclusive. Most days I saw otters, sea birds and on one (very lucky) morning, a whale.
Aboard the Venus, wildlife photographer Richard Lovelock ran seminars on nature photography and was frequently outside the Explorer’s Lounge helping guests perfect their own nature snaps.
It wasn’t just the views that sold me on touring Alaska by sea. Instead of rushing out of bed to catch a new flight every day or so, when cruising, you can move at your own pace.
Miss the breakfast buffet? Get a late waffle at Manfredi’s. Skipped your early morning tour into Ketchikan? Take another one of the free buses in the afternoon.
While the destinations are set, the pace you explore is entirely up to you.
Some land days, I wanted to see and do as much as possible. I’d pack in hikes, museums, cafes and shopping. But on others, I focused on rejuvenating in the Nordic spa onboard.
And by visiting the 49th state by ocean, even if you do take a rain check, you’re just a window away from some of the best views of your life.
Visiting Alaska isn’t just about the scenery, though.
The whole state is dripping with culture, history and indigenous storytelling.
But because many of the main tourist centres are sealocked, or at least incredibly taxing to get to by land, many miss out the full Alaskan experience.
Even Alaska’s capital city, Juneau, is sealocked, only accessible by sea or plane. Yet the city is well-worth a visit, not just for the seafood restaurants or shops but Mendenhall Glacier.
Another one of my favourite spots was sealocked too; Kitchikan, where I toured Totem Bight State Historical Park and learnt how Tlingit and Haida artists create their totem carvings. Our guide explained how each carving told a story, and shared the similarities with some of the myths in Māori culture.
While you don’t need to travel far to learn about the legend of Paikea, the whale rider, being amongst the totem poles on the other side of the world, learning of Alaska’s very own whale rider reminded me how connected the world really is.
And how important and sacred Māori storytelling is in Aotearoa.
ALASKA
GETTING THERE
Fly from Auckland to Alaska with one stopover in San Francisco with United and Alaska Airlines.
DETAILS
The writer took the Seward to Vancouver route, stopping in Valdez, Haines, Sitka, Juneau and Ketchikan, staying in a deluxe stateroom. The cruise is offered in both directions, with prices from $10,201 per person, based on double cabin occupancy.
Viking offers a 25% solo supplement for the remaining 2026 departures on stateroom categories V2 - DV1.
The next available cruise sails from Vancouver on May 27 next year.
New Zealand Herald Travel flew and sailed courtesy of Viking Cruises.