Sitting meditation in the Higher Purpose Room at Aleenta. Photo / Aleenta Retreat
Ron Emmons heads to a wellness retreat in Chiang Mai to see what a monk can teach him about stilling the mind.
“Who better to learn meditation from than a monk?” This was my thought process as I signed up for the ‘monk-level’ course in Vipassana (insight) meditation at five-star wellness resort Aleenta, in Chiang Mai, North Thailand.
The package included guidance in meditation by an English-speaking monk at a nearby temple. But if I’m being honest, the additional spa treatments, luxurious bed and gourmet meals helped swing my choice.
I checked into the retreat to embark on an inward journey of self-discovery. First up was a wellness consultation to determine my physical and spiritual abilities and aspirations, followed by the presentation of a busy schedule for the next few days.
The first activity was new to me – a private meditation session accompanied by sound healing in the appropriately named Higher Purpose Room. My therapist, Nan, knelt behind a dozen or so sound bowls of various sizes that she brought to life with soft and hard mallets as I lay on a firm mattress with my eyes closed, listening to the soothing, resonant sound and sensing my breathing growing deeper.
The next morning, I was taken to nearby Wat Umong (Tunnel Temple) and introduced to Phra Tawatchai, who had been in the monkhood for 26 years and who was to be my meditation teacher. We sat in a covered pavilion, mosquitoes buzzing around as he reminded me of the fundamental precepts of Buddhism – no killing, no lying, no stealing, no intoxication and no sexual misconduct.
He pointed out a mosquito that had settled on the shoulder of my white shirt, so I swatted it, leaving a red blob on my shirt. Instantly, I realised that I had broken the first Buddhist precept – not to kill a living being – which was not a good omen. Fortunately, my teacher saw the irony of the situation and, laughing, led me into an air-conditioned room where he started to reveal the secrets of meditation.
After explaining the five hindrances to a clear mind (anger, desire, restlessness, laziness and doubt), he guided me into a session of sitting meditation, encouraging me to focus my attention on the breath going in and out of my nostrils. I was pleased that I could concentrate on my breathing without my mind wandering too often into dreaming about the future or analysing the past.
We then practised walking meditation, which I found easier than sitting meditation as the act of stepping (lifting, moving, lowering and pressing the foot to the ground) occupied my mind enough to stay in the present moment. Keeping my eye on the monk beside me, I was aware that our walking slowed down to a snail’s pace.
Apart from almost keeling over a couple of times as I balanced on one foot, I felt that the practice was productive, inducing in me a state of relaxed awareness. I thanked Phra Tawatchai for his guidance and then spent a mindful hour wandering around the extensive grounds of this forest monastery, which was established over 600 years ago and is one of a handful of Chiang Mai temples expected to be granted Unesco World Heritage status in 2026.
I wandered along moss-covered paths between towering trees, many of which were tagged with sayings such as “Life always offers you a second chance. It’s called tomorrow”. Or, “The educated (person) is humble; the ignorant (person) prefers arrogance.” In the Spiritual Theatre, the life lessons went on; over a painting of a soldier and a monk standing side by side were the words: “To conquer millions in battle is less than to conquer oneself.”
Back at the resort, I joined a bamboo exercise class and was amazed to discover how many ways a simple bamboo pole can be used to test balance, flexibility and strength. The qigong class was similarly engaging, adding six healing sounds and slow-flowing movement to deep, rhythmic breathing, which soon put me into a calm, meditative state.
After the rigours of spiritual practice and sightseeing, I was relieved to see that the next item on my agenda was a Sense of Ayurah massage at the Ayurah Spa. As therapist Na kneaded a blend of lavender, peppermint and rosemary oil into pressure points on my front and back, my mind drifted at times to my upcoming healthy lunch at The Garden restaurant, but I spent most of the hour in the present moment, savouring the healing nature of touch.
The period between healthy lunch and healthy dinner was given over to leisure and self-practice of Vipassana meditation. I followed a half-hour nap with an exploration of the resort, which, despite its compact nature, has a spaciousness and serenity throughout.
In the small library, I was pleased to see one of my own publications on display (Portrait of Thailand, a photo-driven overview of the kingdom). Then I was even more pleased to discover a little-visited, winding path under a bamboo archway behind the Ayurah Spa that was ideal for practising walking meditation. I sauntered back and forth, my mind fixed upon the movement of my feet, until the gentle splashing of water at the nearby swimming pool drew me away for a late afternoon dip.
Floating on my back in the saltwater pool, I gazed up at wispy clouds gliding across a clear blue sky and sensed that during my stay, my mind had become clearer and calmer. Suddenly, my watch alerted me that it was time to check out, so I hopped out of the pool, dried myself off, picked up my bags, took a deep breath and returned to the busy world beyond.
The writer visited courtesy of Aleenta Retreat.