More than 2000 roam freely in the group of lush green Indonesian islands that make up Komodo National Park, which is deservedly ranked as one of the New Seven Wonders of Nature.
The world's largest lizard can grow to three metres and has shark-like teeth and poisonous saliva, so it's no surprise we're not allowed off our Holland America Line cruise ship, MS Rotterdam, outside of a planned excursion.
As well as preying on other animals living on the islands, the cannibalistic dragons feast on their young ... and, to our horror, humans. If you survive their initial bite, it's likely you'll die from blood poisoning a few days later.
But, flanked by two guides clutching forked sticks for protection, we're daring to trek through Komodo Island in search of these incredible reptiles. As with all wild animals, though, there's no guarantee we'll find them.
After 45 minutes in the blistering noon heat, we're about to give up hope when suddenly, our guides stop and usher us to move forward very slowly.
We enter a clearing to find six huge dragons, deliciously evil looking, with scaly skin, long tongues and black beady eyes.
My heart is hammering as one creeps behind us and sprawls lazily under a tree. It's easy to see why this is the most talked about excursion on our two-week Indonesia cruise itinerary.
Clicking away, everyone gets the photos they're after, and we head back to the ship to sip cocktails on sun loungers while listening to live jazz.
That's the beauty of cruising around Southeast Asia. After exploring historic temples and perusing bustling markets, you can retreat to the luxury of the mid-size ship with its champagne bars, fine dining restaurants, casino and lavish spa. Most exciting of all, you nearly always wake up in a new destination every day.
Barong is the most well-known Balinese dance. Photo/ Getty Images
We had started our adventure in Bogor, about 60km south of Jakarta, with a visit to the Taman Safari Park, one of the world's most successful breeding centres for endangered species. Tigers, rhinos and Chinese bears are just some of the animals found there.
But organised tours can be a bit rushed, so when we reach Lombok, we explore alone. We barter with a taxi driver, then for the next five hours he amazes us with his knowledge.
"Lombok is the Bali of 25 years ago," he says.
A new, bigger airport opened there a few years ago, but the island remains unspoilt and lush. Fringed by beaches strewn with coconut palms and covered with rainforest, it has all the beauty of a honeymoon destination.
We visit Sukarara, a weaving village, to watch women at work. It takes a whole month to make one sarong and we can't resist buying one of their intricate designs.
Afterwards, we find a boutique hotel on Mangsit Beach for a spicy Indonesian lunch. But the food is just as delicious on the ship. Choosing from different menus every night, we enjoy meals of succulent lamb, juicy prime rib and hot chocolate puds.
This is our first cruise, and three days in we are still discovering new things - like the library, quizzes and dance classes.
It's also possible to while away the hours doing nothing at all.
The evening entertainment is also impressive. Talented musicians and dancers cater for all tastes and languages, and shows deliberately don't have dialogue.
One waiter in the Italian restaurant, Canaletto, used to be a guide in Bali and over a feast of Tuscan steak and delicious red wine, he recommends the best beaches to visit and how much we should pay for a taxi.
At his suggestion, we head to Kuta Beach for our first of two days in Bali. Tourists of all ages are learning to surf or shopping at stalls selling cheap beachwear and jewellery and we enjoy chatting with the locals.
A local woman weaves on a traditional loom. Photo / Getty Images
On our second day, we opt for another ship excursion and witness a traditional barong dance performance, where a battle between good and evil is represented with colourful masks and acrobatic moves.
For lunch, we enjoy an Indonesian buffet at a restaurant overlooking active volcano Mount Batur and the biggest lake in Bali. Full from the food and relishing the stunning views, we head to Tirta Empul, the temple of holy springs. Balinese people travel from across the island to bathe in its protective waters.
Our hilarious guide keeps us entertained with fascinating stories of Balinese beliefs, religion and culture. He tells us there's only a 0.2 per cent divorce rate here, and because I am the firstborn in my family, my Balinese name would be Wayan.
We finish the day at an art gallery in Ubud, and while some travellers treat themselves to souvenirs, others collapse in the shade. Some don't get off the bus at all.
But back on the ship, there's lots of time to relax. We have forgotten what day of the week it is, and are only reminded by "calendar" carpets in the lift.
I spend every spare minute sunbathing or looking out to sea, and I even glimpse a pod of dolphins on one occasion. It's like a scene from a fairy tale and I can hardly believe it's real.
Just like those mysterious dragons.
The writer was a guest of Holland America Line.
- AAP
