Gourmet road trips: Auckland's markets are full of surprises

By PHOEBE FALCONER

To market, to market, to buy - anything, really. But if it's food you're after, the suburban weekend markets are the finest.

Start on Friday at the Aotea Square market in Queen St, outside the Aotea Centre. The vegetables, fruit and flowers are all well priced, and if your energy flags, there are food stalls for sustenance. The market is also open on Saturday.

While you're in the area, cross Queen St and head up to the row of small cafes and restaurants. Korean is cheek by jowl with Japanese and Chinese. The cafes are frequently full of hungry Asian students, which is generally an indication that the food is good and cheap.

Further afield, the Saturday Otara market is the largest Polynesian market in the world. It's huge and friendly and the air is filled with traditional Pacific Island music. There are piles of taro, kumara, potatoes, unidentifiable greens and, of course, shellfish.

The New Lynn Organic Market was launched in November, and offers gluten-free bread, chutneys and jams as well as other local organic food. The market reopens on January 17 after the Christmas break.

On Sundays, Avondale market has a more Asian impact, with many varieties of bok choy and those huge radishes, as well as okra, taro, chillies of all shapes and sizes, shellfish, and very good pork buns. Many of the vegetables and fruit are from small, independent gardens and orchards, and the standard is very high, although the pervasive fishy smell can be a bit wearing. The parking is notoriously bad, too, so be prepared for a walk.

On the North Shore, Takapuna transforms itself on a Sunday morning, and spreads from its original home in a carpark into the surrounding streets. The flowers are particularly good, and there are tempting food stalls, but the market closes at 12 sharp, so eat early.

If delicatessen food is your style, there are at least two in the city that deserve a visit.

Zarbo has bagels, mouth-watering chocolate, its own-brand sauces, marinades and jams, as well as takeaway food for lunch and dinner in the Zarbo2Go range.

The coffee is great, too.

Sabato started off importing the Italian food that owners Jacqui and Phil Dixon enjoyed themselves, and their collection of delectables now includes Spanish and other European foods as well as New Zealand meats and cheeses.

Villa Maria Estate's Auckland winery is on the original site in Kirkbride Rd, Mangere, is the largest privately owned winery in New Zealand, and the country's second or third largest producer, depending on vintage.

The tasting bar is lengthy, and the tasting portions generous.

The Asian influence on Auckland has seen the arrival of food halls, most notably Food Alley in Lower Albert St. Choices range from Korean through Japanese to Malaysian and Indian. Prices are generally in the $7 to $8 range, the place is clean and busy and fun.

There is a smaller food hall in Queen St, on the old Deka site, one in Ponsonby Rd and a great one in Mercury Lane, off Karangahape Rd.

But while you're at the bottom of Albert St, wander a little further to Seamart, for the best selection of fresh seafood in Auckland.

There are varieties of fish you've never seen before, and anything you select can be filleted in a flash.

And to round off the meal, Kapiti Cheeses has an outlet in Fanshawe St with a Liquorland right next door.

Life just gets better.

More information

Aotea Square Market, 10-6 Fri, Sat. Ph (09) 307-5075.

Otara Market, Newbury St, Otara, 6-12 Sat.

New Lynn Organic Market, 8-2 Sat. Reopens Jan 17. Ph (09) 826-1520.

Avondale Market, Avondale Racecourse, Ash St. 7-12 Sun. Ph (09) 412-9668.

Takapuna Market, Lake Rd central carpark, Takapuna. 6-12 Sun.

Zarbo, 24 Morrow St, Newmarket. Ph (09) 520-2721.

Sabato, 57 Normanby Rd, Mt Eden. Ph (09) 630-8751.

Villa Maria Estate, 5 Kirkbride Rd, Mangere. Ph (09) 255-0660. 9-5 daily.

Food Alley, Albert St, City.

Seamart, corner of Fanshawe St and Market Place, City. Ph (09) 302-8980.

Kapiti Cheeses Ltd, 136 Fanshawe St, City. Ph (09) 377-2473.

Tourism Auckland, Ph (09) 979-2333.

Gourmet road trips