Japan's vast rail network presents travellers with a fantastic way to see the country. Photo / Getty Images
Japan's vast rail network presents travellers with a fantastic way to see the country. Photo / Getty Images
Taking the train cross-country is one of the most enchanting ways to discover Japan, writes Denise Stephens
Bullet trains, or shinkansen, are famous for speeding from Tokyo to other large cities, but there’s more than this to Japanese rail travel. Trains run across the country, from small local lines to long-distance expresses, taking visitors beyond the bullet train routes. The train windows look out onto small towns with wooden houses and temples, rice fields and rivers, mountains and more. Here are some rail routes that give a different view of Japan.
Hello Kitty Haruka
Many visitors take their first train trip on an airport train such as the Hello Kitty Haruka. This whisks travellers from Kansai Airport to Osaka in 45 minutes, and to Kyoto in one hour and 20 minutes. It has comfortable seats and luggage racks so travellers can relax after a long flight. If looking at Osaka’s urban sprawl doesn’t appeal, cute motifs of Hello Kitty, the Japanese cartoon character, decorate the carriage interiors.
The Hello Kitty Haruka runs from Kansai Airport to Osaka and Kyoto.
Japan Rail runs limited express trains to many smaller towns and cities, travelling fast enough to get to the destination in a reasonable time, but slow enough to see the scenery. The Hida Wide View Express travels from Nagoya through the Japanese Alps, arriving in historic Takayama three hours later. Along the way, passengers can admire views of mountains, rivers and even a castle through the extra-large windows.
The Hida Wide View Express goes on a scenic journey through the Japanese Alps.
Sunrise Izumo Express
The Sunrise Izumo travels overnight between Tokyo and far-flung Izumo. It’s one of the last two sleeper trains in Japan, surviving where others have been replaced by the speedy shinkansen. As well as one- and two-person cabins like those on many international sleeper trains, the Sunrise Izumo has some uniquely Japanese accommodation. In the nobinobi carriage, carpeted sleeping platforms are divided by a small partition for privacy. Each berth is equipped with a padded blanket, a plastic cup and an individual reading light. It’s basic but very popular, particularly with younger travellers.
Kinosaki Express
Kinosaki Onsen is a charming hot-spring town only two hours from Kyoto on the Kinosaki Express. After leaving Kyoto, the train wends its way through mountains and across river gorges. Heading towards Kinosaki, the countryside may be covered in snow during winter, but it’s a popular season to visit to soak in the hot pools and eat snow crab, a local delicacy.
Kinosaki Onsen is a charming hot-spring town two hours from Kyoto by train. Photo / Getty Images
Enoden Railway
South of Tokyo, the Enoden railway runs along the coast from Enoshima to Kamakura, stopping at all stations. The retro carriages are packed in the summer with Tokyo residents going to the beach or to see Kamakura’s famous hydrangeas. At other times of the year, visitors use the Enoden line to reach historic temples such as Kotoku-in, home to the Great Buddha. Only half an hour long, it’s an enjoyable trip with coastal views and interesting stops.
The Enoden line runs between Enoshima and Kamakura, an area famous for hydrangeas.
Snow Monkey Express
Japan has many private railway companies running regional and local services. The Nagano Electric Railway is one of these, running local and express trains from Nagano to Yudanaka, an old-fashioned hot-spring town near the famous snow monkeys that are known for their unusual love for bathing in the onsen. The Snow Monkey Express will get you to Yudanaka in less than an hour, passing through small towns surrounded by a patchwork of rice fields, with a dramatic backdrop of snow-covered mountains.
Yudanaka in Japan is an old-fashioned hot spring town near the famous snow monkeys. Photo / Getty Images
Top tips for train travel in Japan
Food
It’s perfectly acceptable to eat on long-distance trains, and most seats are equipped with a tray table. Kiosks at railway stations sell ekiben, or train bento box meals, which often feature regional specialties. There isn’t any food service on the trains themselves, although sometimes there are vending machines for drinks.
Luggage
Express trains have surprisingly large overhead luggage racks that can easily fit medium-sized cases. There’s plenty of legroom between seats, so luggage can also be placed there. Placing luggage is not permittedin the aisle and train staff will ask you to move it. Most hotels will arrange delivery to your next destination for large suitcases.
Long-distance trains are equipped with tray tables and large luggage racks.
Reservations
Some trains require reservations, such as the Narita Express from Narita Airport to Tokyo. On other trains reservations are optional, but recommended at peak times such as New Year or cherry blossom season. It’s also worth reserving seats when heading to popular destinations such as Takayama. Reservations for JR trains can be done at any JR station in Japan.
JR Pass
If you’re planning a lot of long-distance train travel, a JR Pass (Japan Rail Pass) may be worthwhile, but a substantial price increase in October in 2023 has made it less likely to save you money. First-time visitors doing a standard Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto itinerary will not save money with a JR Pass, even with the addition of a side trip to Hiroshima. Price the individual train trips for your itinerary first and then compare with the cost of the JR Pass.
