The River Thames, with Eton on the left bank and Windsor on the right. Photo / Getty Images
The River Thames, with Eton on the left bank and Windsor on the right. Photo / Getty Images
A 40-minute drive west of London, Windsor provides a city respite for the royals. This is how you can experience the A-list lifestyle for yourself, writes Kate Wickers.
Like the soldiers that guard its famous castle, the town of Windsor is polishing its buttons to beready to be on parade for the summer season. Situated on an idyllic stretch of the Thames River and bordering Windsor Great Park (almost 2,000 hectares of wide-ranging parkland), Windsor sees 7.8 million tourists visit annually.
Like any tourist mecca, it has its share of chain restaurants and shops selling tourist kitsch, but you don’t have to stray far off the path to discover places that the locals love and are fit for a king.
Windsor town is situated on an idyllic stretch of the Thames River and borders Windsor Great Park. Photo / Getty Images
Begin with breakfast in Millar’s Eatery (think artisan breads, chorizo hash, pastel de nata, and freshly ground coffee) on St Leonard’s Road. Resist the urge to head straight for the castle (although do try to catch the change of guard along the High Street at 10.50) and instead make your way to the George IV Castle Gates. From here, The Long Walk stretches in an impressive 4km straight line to The Copper Horse statue of George III. Most tourists turn back when they reach the white gates at the halfway point, but instead carry on into the deer park, home a 500-strong herd of red deer (including two resplendent stags). Your reward for going the extra mile will be sweeping views back to the castle and London (look for Wembley Stadium’s famous arches).
Then, retrace your steps to The Two Brewers pub, which sits snugly by the George IV Castle Gates. Built in 1709 and established as a public house in 1792, it has a dark wood interior, open fires and flickers with candlelight even in summer months.
The Long Walk, a 4km stretch from George IV Castle Gates to The Copper Horse, offers stunning views of Windsor Castle and London. Photo / 123rf
AFTERNOON
Visiting the castle post-lunch is a far less hectic scene. King Charles is the 40th monarch to have lived here since the castle was founded in the 11th century by William the Conqueror and highlights include the State Rooms, Queen Mary’s dolls house and a vast fine art collection including works by Holbein and Rubens.
In the Quire (where services are sung) in St George’s Chapel ask a steward to show you the intricately oak-carved misericords (Medieval shelves for one’s bottom). The designs range from biblical and historical to humorous (a pig playing the bagpipes). The seat reserved for the monarch’s spouse has a carving of a goblin “mooning”. Enjoy a coffee at Gregory & Tapping (also nice for a glass of wine in the evening), close to Windsor’s Royal Station, then head down to the river.
On the left side of Windsor Bridge, you can take an organised trip with French Brothers, and rent a row boat or motorboat from John Logie Boats. As the sun dips, watch the castle’s Bagshot Heath stone change colour from brown to reddish honey tones.
Windsor Bridge over the River Thames. Photo / Getty Images
EVENING
For dinner, head back to St Leonard’s Road to Al Fassia (serving up Moroccan cuisine since 1976), for pastries filled with chicken and almonds and tajines of chicken with sweet prunes. Further along the road, Misugo is another great option with a vast sushi menu and beautifully filled bento boxes - perfect for a travel detox.
DAY TWO
MORNING
Begin with a leisurely stroll around town, past the impressive Georgian houses on Kings Road and on to the High Street to see Market Cross House (now a lovely wine bar), built in 1718, and famous for its distinctive “lean”. Next door is The Guildhall, built by Sir Christopher Wren (where King Charles and Queen Camilla got hitched). Look for the pillars that don’t support any weight, added by Wren to fool the town planners.
Windsor High Street in the UK. Photo / Getty Images
Continue down the High Street, past the bijoux Victorian Theatre Royal and cross Windsor Bridge on to Eton High Street (Jane Seymour’s funeral procession travelled this way in 1547). Here, galleries and antique shops are housed in antiquated timber-framed buildings. Eton College dominates the remainder of the town, where schoolboys, in white ties and black tailcoats, saunter to class like privileged penguins. Pull up a window seat at the Enigma Cafe and enjoy a cup of tea and slice of homemade cake (try the delicious courgette loaf).
Eton College, where schoolboys don traditional white ties and black tailcoats. Photo / 123rf
AFTERNOON
One of the loveliest ways to explore Windsor Great Park is tucked under blankets in a restored or replica Victorian horsedrawn hackney carriage. Windsor Carriages are driven by five generations of the Seear family, operating in and about Windsor since 1849. Expect to enjoy many fascinating anecdotes about Windsor and the royals and add in a champagne picnic to make it extra special. Pre-booking is essential. Experiences from £109 ($230) per carriage.
Windsor offers an A-list escape with its historic sites, gourmet cuisine, and luxurious accommodations. Photo / 123rf
For a cocktail in elegant surroundings, within an arrow’s shot of the castle, book a table at the 400-year-old Cobbles at Drury House (once home to King Charles II’s famous mistress, Nell Gwyn). Also, within these ancient, cobbled lanes, you’ll find Plate at No 6, which serves up delicious sharing plates (try the cumin grilled sardines with ratatouille).
STAY
Double rooms at Macdonald Windsor Hotel, located opposite Windsor Castle, start at £152 ($320) macdonaldhotels.co.uk.
