Vuk Malobabic takes on French Polynesia, from bustling Papeete markets to hidden gems like Raiatea's Fish and Blue Restaurant.
Most people dream of one day visiting French Polynesia. Here, Vuk Malobabic, general manager for Norwegian Spirit, details his favourite places to visit, dine and explore.
When I think of French Polynesia, a smile comes to my face without me even knowing it. I’ve travelled around the world, and yet I’ve never met more pleasant people, nor seen natural beauty, quite like I have here.
My career recently brought me to the French Polynesian islands for the first time as Norwegian Cruise Line returned to the region. While I expected it not to differ much from the Caribbean Islands, I was so wrong. The more time I spent in French Polynesia, the more it resembled paradise.
Norwegian Spirit arrived in Papeete, Tahiti, a week before guests were supposed to board the ship, which gave me plenty of time to prepare for the next cruise. It also allowed me to enjoy the local beaches, town, restaurants, bars, and culture.
Just a two-minute walk from the port is the main city market, where you can find a symphony of colours and scents from tropical flowers, fruits, handmade souvenirs and fresh seafood - a must-visit stop for those visiting for the day.
After a leisurely day walking around Papeete, I went for dinner with my colleagues at the highly recommended Hei Restaurant. It was a superb dinner and one I will never forget. The seven-course French degustation included extraordinary flavours and presentation. Even the pairing of each wine impressed the ship’s resident sommelier.
However, my favourite restaurant in Papeete is L’O a La Bouche. Located in a narrow street about 100 metres from the main city market, its service, attention to detail and overall F&B selection are what set this place apart. My favourite dish is papio fish, which is a deepwater fish with a taste that reminds me of Alaskan halibut. Not many fish have such pronounced flavour.
Exploring the island by car is a great way to see the region’s hidden gems. With my local friend, Bud, we visited Pointe Venus, a black sandy beach open to the public, which isn’t too crowded. We had brunch in the restaurant Mama’s Beach House and then followed the west coast toward the north. The road led us to a scenic waterfall in the middle of a tropical forest which the locals call the Tree Waterfalls of Tiarei, but tourists know it as Faarumai Waterfalls. Its breathtaking beauty is a must-see while you’re on the main island. We ended the day in Te Moana Tahiti Resort with a couple of refreshing cocktails on the edge of the infinity pool on one side and a natural beach on the other. It was an unforgettable day.
Bora Bora is probably the most famous French Polynesian island for daydreamers. On my day in Bora Bora, my friends and I were picked up by a local in a speedboat and taken on a day trip around the whole Island. Bora Bora has a reef that you can walk around to explore the island, but it’s much faster by speedboat.
Our first stop was the edge of the reef for diving with sharks. Even though I was terrified to be in the sea with 30 two-metre sharks, I did it, and I am so glad I did. I learnt that reef sharks prefer to eat fish, so there was no reason to be frightened. After 45 minutes with reef sharks, we swam with stingrays. Our local tour guide let us pet them, hold them and take photos. Just 20 minutes from here is an amazing coral maze with an explosion of colours that I had no idea existed. While I’m not a big fan of snorkelling, this experience changed my mind and I purchased my own mask and fins. The final stop for the day was a small private island for local food and drinks, chilling under palm trees and listening to locals playing the guitar. If your destiny brings you to Bora Bora, this excursion is a must!
An island that captivated my attention is Raiatea. From what seemed like just a small town, I soon discovered water shuttles that can take you to other small islands just off the coast. My good friend Harry came for a cruise and showed me a couple of “hacks” for how best to see Raiatea to ensure you make the most of your day.
Situated on the beach 10km from the main town where we dock, you will find an extraordinary restaurant that is not a typical tourist destination: Fish and Blue Restaurant, which is a personal favourite of mine. As you walk through the restaurant, the scenery will unfold onto the beach with a couple of dinner tables in the sea, while the rest is on a sandy beach. Fish and Blue has its own pier, which will take you to the edge of the coral reef. This makes for a super romantic spot where you can sit, enjoy delicious cocktails and watch one of best sunsets in the world.
Before being seated for dinner, I recommend trying cocktails made from freshly squeezed tropical fruits and top-shelf liquor. The menu is simple, based on fresh Polynesian seafood with a touch of French cuisine and delicate Asian flavours. Fish and Blue uses local ingredients, with a menu proving the best things in life are usually very simple. The restaurant is open for dinner only, so I would recommend making a reservation when they open (around 5pm), which will give you the reward of a beautiful sunset with a Bora Bora silhouette in view. Travelling the globe, I have tried many restaurants, but Fish and Blue is definitely in my top three all-time favourite restaurants.
While I left French Polynesia weeks ago, my thoughts are still there, and I can’t wait to go back in a few weeks’ time to see old friends, familiar places, and discover something new.
Fancy an elegant three-course lunch on board a contemporary cruise ship packed with features that appeal to the adult cruiser? Thanks to Norwegian Cruise Line, 30 lucky Herald newspaper, Herald Premium or Bay of Plenty Times subscribers (and their +one) have a chance to enjoy a welcome glass of champagne followed by an exclusive tour and lunch in a beautiful restaurant with ocean views on Norwegian Spirit on Friday, March 15 in Tauranga (10 winners), or Saturday, March 16 in Auckland (20 winners). You’ll be hosted by Norwegian Cruise Line, and Bay of Plenty Times Editor Scott Inglis in Tauranga and Travel Editor Stephanie Holmes in Auckland. Get in quick - entries close at midnight on February 23. Go to nzherald.co.nz/win to enter and remember to specify which date/location you would like to attend. Terms and conditions apply.
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