Taiwan’s capital, Taipei. Photo / Unsplash
Armed with local friends and conversational Mandarin, Sinean Callery spends three months exploring Taiwan and shares gems for visitors eager to go beyond the tourist trail.
When Portuguese sailors first laid eyes on Taiwan, they called it only “Ilha Formosa”, or beautiful island – and it definitely lives up to that name. Once a hidden gem, this island is gaining a reputation as a paradise among outdoor enthusiasts and foodies alike thanks to its lush landscape and vibrant street food scene. What surprised me most when I arrived in Taiwan, though, was the incredible depth and diversity of the tiny island’s culture.
Many traditions that were suppressed in China during the Cultural Revolution still thrive in Taiwan. Over time, these have merged with indigenous culture and local superstitions to take on a unique character. Thanks to local friends and conversational Mandarin, I dove deep into this rich culture during my three-month stay.
In Taiwan, the supernatural is serious business, earning it the nickname “Ghost Island”. Many of the festivals observed in Taiwan come from mainland China – for example the Qingming Tomb sweeping festival, the Dragonboat festival or the Spring Festival – but some of these have taken on a special Taiwanese character.
On the mainland, Hungry Ghost Festival or Zhongyuan Jie takes place on the 15th day of the seventh lunar month (typically August or September), when the gates to the otherworld are thought to be open.
However, in Taiwan, they dedicate an entire month to the festival. During “Ghost Month”, the veil between our world and the next is thin, and locals are eager to appease the spirits and avoid bringing bad luck upon themselves.
Alongside burning joss paper or spirit money, there are many taboos to observe – from staying indoors at night to not swimming in the sea. The month ends with a very unique event – the Toucheng Pole Climbing Festival, also known as Qiang Gu or Ghost Grappling Festival – where teams of young men compete to climb greased poles and capture a flag.
You may have heard of the Pingxi Lantern Festival, for which thousands of lanterns light up the night on the 15th day of the first lunar calendar month. As the lanterns gently carry wishes and prayers into the sky, something less peaceful is happening in the south of Taiwan – the Yanshui Beehive Fireworks Festival, when locals and visitors don protective head gear and clothing and allow themselves to be bombarded with firecrackers. The tradition began in 1875, when fireworks were set off to chase away the “evil spirits” responsible for a cholera epidemic in the southern town of Yanshui. Today, this baptism of fire is thought to bring good luck.
Many of Taiwan’s unique festivals come from the 16 recognised indigenous tribes of the island. These events typically feature lots of dancing, singing, feasting and, of course, the infamous xiao mi jiu – a strong, sweet wine made from millet. If you attend the Rukai Millet Festival in summer, you will see the typical bamboo swing (tiyuma) – traditionally an opportunity for unwed men and women to meet. Don’t worry if you don’t speak Mandarin; lyrics tend to be simple, repetitive and easy to catch onto. The dances are easy to learn too, so don’t be afraid to participate. If you do attend one of the smaller, more local festivals, make sure to get permission before taking and sharing photos.
Another unique cultural experience in Taiwan is the 330km-long Taoist Dajia Mazu pilgrimage. For nine days, pilgrims accompany a litter (a carriage mounted on poles and carried by people) holding a statue of the sea goddess Mazu from Taichung to Chiayi. Along the way, the convoy stops at various temples – and is occasionally forcefully rerouted to smaller temples keen to receive the goddess’ blessings. You will often see worshippers crawling under the litter for good luck.
The start date of this pilgrimage is determined by throwing moon blocks (two wooden crescents). When you visit a temple, you can try this form of divination yourself. Think of a question, then throw a pair of blocks. There are three possible outcomes: one block has its flat side facing down, the other block’s flat side faces up – this means the deity is smiling, and it’s a yes. Both blocks having their flat side facing down means no, or that the deity is angered. If both flat sides face up, the deity is laughing at you and your question.
To get a good basis in Taiwanese culture before taking a deeper dive, why not start your visit with a trip to the National Palace Museum in Taipei’s Shilin district, home to countless artefacts of Chinese culture. You can follow this with a trip to the nearby Shung Ye Museum of Formosan Aborigines.
Most importantly, don’t be afraid to chat to Taiwanese people. Making local friends is the best way to learn about the island’s culture.
The writer travelled at their own expense.