Lenno, a small hamlet on Lake Como, boasts a population of about 1800. Photo / Unsplash
Lenno, a small hamlet on Lake Como, boasts a population of about 1800. Photo / Unsplash
When it comes to visiting Italy in summer, Lake Como tops most people’s to-do lists, and there is a way to avoid the hordes, writes Dianne Bortoletto.
The town of Bellagio basks in the spotlight as Lake Como’s crown jewel, but there’s a quieter haven across the lake,away from the masses, and it’s the perfect base to explore the extraordinary towns that lap Italy’s third-largest lake.
Welcome to Lenno. A charming hamlet with a population of about 1800 some 20km northeast of Como, the closest train station. From Como, take a 30-minute fast hydrofoil or a scenic 90-minute ferry to arrive lakeside. To travel on land, take a 30-minute bus towards Menaggio or, for the strong-hearted, rent a car and brace for a white-knuckled drive along extremely narrow roads.
Nestled under peaks that stretch into the sky, Lenno offers postcard views so pretty they hardly seem real. In the distance, glacier-capped blue and grey mountains are surrounded by greenery, while above, fluffy clouds float carefree in the cerulean sky. These stunning scenes are twice as nice, reflected in the mirrored surface of Lago di Como.
Shaped like an upside-down Y, the picturesque towns of Bellagio, Menaggio and Varenna are around the intersection of Lake Como’s three branches.
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Lenno, on the western arm, has frequent and easy-to-navigate ferry services. A one-day ferry pass costs €15 (NZ$27) for adults and is by far the best and most spectacular way to explore the area. A day hopping from one stunning town to the next, all while drinking in panoramic glassy lake and mountain scenes, is forever etched into the memory banks.
Lenno is conveniently located on Lake Como's western arm, with easy access via frequent ferry services. Photo / 123rf
Located in the Tremezzina area, Lenno is filled with history dating back to prehistoric times, believed to have been occupied by Celtic tribes before coming under Roman rule in AD6.
At the heart of Lenno’s historical soul is Piazza XI Febbraio, a sun-drenched square where the 11th-century Church of St Stephen still stands. Behind the Romanesque facade is a blend of architectural styles and side chapels adorned with 16th-century frescoes.
Adjacent to the church stands the octagonal Baptistery of St John the Evangelist and close by are remnants of a centuries-old olive mill, a nod to the Lenno’s agricultural heritage. Time your visit close to the hour, grab a cone or cup from the nearby La Fabbrica Del Gelato, and enjoy one of life’s simple pleasures to the soundtrack of chiming bells.
In contrast, Villa del Balbianello presents a grandiose way of life. Perched on the promontory a 1km walk away, the 18th-century masterpiece is considered one of the most beautiful villas in Italy, featured in blockbuster films such as Star Wars: Episode II, Casino Royale and A Month by the Lake. Open from March to November, besides private weddings, events and filming, the immaculate gardens are as enchanting as the elaborate interiors.
Dianne Bortoletto and Marnie Paoliello soaking up the Lenno sun. Photo / Dianne Bortoletto
Dubbed “the pearl” of Lake Como, Bellagio is a stunning 30-minute ferry ride from Lenno. Sit on the outside deck for uninterrupted views of Bellagio’s pastel waterfront buildings and mountainous backdrop as the ferry approaches the port.
Glamorous, Bellagio’s promenade is lined with colourful potted flowers, expensive hotels with sprawling alfresco areas and opulent shops selling silk scarves and designer accessories. It’s tempting to take a seat and people-watch, but you’ll pay handsomely to watch mostly tourists saunter by.
Instead, put the map away and walk up the steeped narrow laneways. Catch your breath along with glimpses of the alpine vistas and the shimmering lake as you enter and exit chic shops.
Villa del Balbianello near Lenno is a stunning 18th-century villa featured in blockbuster films like Star Wars: Episode II and Casino Royale. Photo / 123rf
Bellagio isn’t just a feast for the eyes. Michelin-starred restaurants include Ristorante Mistral presenting innovative takes on regional delicacies, while family-run trattorias in unassuming piazzas serve authentic and more-affordable fare. Local delicacies include freshly caught lake fish, mostly perch (persico) or missoltino, which is a dried salted fish, buckwheat pasta (pizzoccheri), polenta, and braised boar.
Italians have an innate ability to find great food, and a low tolerance of substandard food. To avoid the tourist traps in Bellagio, eat where the Italians eat. Most likely the restaurant won’t have a view, but your wallet and taste buds will thank you for it. La Grotta Pizzeria is one such place, inside and down into what felt like a windowless basement, it was full of residents feasting on thin, crisp and flavour-packed wood-fired pizza. Tucked away between laneways is La Fontana whose pasta e fagioli is so good, we caught the ferry to be back twice in three days.
Before booking accommodation in Lenno, it’s wise to check the location. A 10-minute walk down to Lenno is code for a 30-minute thigh-burning, glute-challenging walk back up. On the plus side, it’ll melt away any guilt for overindulging. On flat land close to the shore, port and Lenno’s centre are three hotels ranging from two to four stars; all have rooms with views and a restaurant.
Bellagio, known as the "pearl" of Lake Como, is only a 30-minute ferry ride from Lenno. Photo / 123rf
No matter where you stay, an unmissable summer experience is Lido di Lenno, the exclusive beach club, restaurant and bar. Book a sun lounge (lido) ahead of your trip to spend a glorious day swimming in Italy’s famous lake. The contemporary restaurant is excellent and worthy of a meal at any time of year.
While not as ostentatious as its flamboyant neighbour Bellagio, Lenno has everything you need and nothing you don’t, including the crowds.
What to know before you go
Lenno is a quiet haven for travellers seeking to experience the beauty of Lake Como without the glitz and crowds of Bellagio. Here’s where to rest your head and tantalise your taste buds:
Stay
Albergo Lenno: This 4-star hotel in a 1900s building has traditional charm and a stunning lakefront location adjacent to the ferry terminal. With a swimming pool (seasonal) and a restaurant serving regional specialities, some rooms have balconies and views.
San Giorgio Hotel: The 3-star hotel is lakeside and has a restaurant with mountain or lake views from rooms.
Hotel Pilnio: This delightful two-star hotel and restaurant is in the heart of historic Lenno and some rooms have views.
Airbnbs: Lenno offers a good selection of Airbnbs, just check how far up the hill it is because the area is extremely steep.
Eat
Lido di Lenno: For a luxurious treat, indulge in an upscale lakeside dining experience. This elegant restaurant boasts breathtaking views and a menu showcasing modern Italian cuisine.
Trattoria Vecchia Marina: This family-run restaurant is known for its friendly atmosphere and delicious regional cuisine including fresh lake fish.
Wine Note da Kita & Nora: A cool bar and eatery offering fresh food that’s reasonably priced.
For more things to see and do in Italy, go to italia.it
