How the world got hooked on Taiwan's steamed soup dumplings

The original Din Tai Fung originates from Taipei. Photo / 123rf

Although xiao long bao (AKA XLB, soup dumplings) probably originated on the outskirts of Shanghai a few hundred years ago, it was from Taiwan that these dainty steamed soup dumplings initiated a global takeover. It's all thanks to Din Tai Fung, which we know today as a restaurant chain with more than 100 branches in more than a dozen cities around the world – some with Michelin stars to their names.

The original - and now flagship - Din Tai Fung, on Xinyi Rd in Taipei, opened in the 1950s selling cooking oil on one side and xiao long bao on the other; the popularity of the latter saw the oil make way for the expansion of the restaurant. Over the years, Din Tai Fung took a dish famed for its finicky nature, nailed the execution of it, and deployed it all around the world.

Din Tai Fung is famed for its xiao long bao (AKA soup dumplings). Photo / Anna King Shahab

There's still something special about enjoying xiao long bao at a Taipei branch of Din Tai Fung. In my case that was the branch in the ground floor mall of Taipei 101, after a visit to the observatory deck of the city's famed skyscraper (I also highly recommend this if in Taipei). It's a bustling spot, and even with a booking we lingered for a time at the entrance until our number came up on the digital screen and we were shown to our large round table, complete with the requisite lazy susan – something about that spinning tabletop addition instantly sparks my appetite.

After we'd settled in, we were invited to view the kitchen, which is easy to do as there are large windows so guests can witness the action. It's a smooth operation: dozens of chefs focusing on their assigned task. The making of xiao long bao happens in rather a factory line manner here; one chef responsible for kneading dough, another for weighing filling, another for spooning the filling on to the pastry, another for closing and pleating the dumpling, another still for weighing the final product to ensure it's the requisite 21 grams – and that's not even all the steps and chefs.

Dozens of chefs focus on their assigned task. Photo / Anna King Shahab

The filling in your traditional xiao long bao is relatively simple in terms of flavouring, but in terms of execution it's a long process that requires a good deal of skill. A stock is made with pork bones and formed into a jelly that's then combined with fatty pork mince, aromatics and seasonings – this is the filling. The pastry dough is rolled out thinly (even thinner at the periphery where it will later be pleated). The filling is added to the pastry skin and the dumpling is folded, then pleated around the closure – the pleating professionals at Din Tai Fung make 18 of them – enough to prove the pastry is sufficiently thin, and not too many as to cause the top of the dumpling to become too dense. The dumplings are steamed six to a basket and in the process, that jelly turns into delicious soup. Should any of those thin-skinnned dumplings break during cooking, the whole basket is a goner. The xiao long bao are served with a dipping sauce of red vinegar and julienned ginger.

First-timer? There's a method to devouring a xiao long bao in order to not to lose any of that precious soup. Using chopsticks, carefully uplift a dumpling by the top where the pleats meet, and place it on a ceramic soup spoon. Lift it to your lips, nibble off a wee bit of the top and tip the spoon to slurp the glorious liquid from its casing before gobbling up the whole thing.

At Din Tai Fung in Taipei 101, our table of six was looked after by restaurant manager Agnes, who as it happened was born and grew up in New Zealand to Taiwanese parents. She and her team, smartly attired in crisp white shirts and black waistcoats, placed basket after plate after basket of delicious dishes on our lazy susan – as well as the original xiao long bao we enjoyed versions with truffle and with crab roe, a host of other dumplings including prawn shao mai, mushroom dumplings, and wontons in spicy sauce, plus cold dishes like pickled cucumber and marinated tofu, and hot dishes like shrimp fried rice, blanketed at the table with fresh shavings of black truffle.

The team at Din Tai Fung in Taipei 101 are smartly attired in crisp white shirts and black waistcoats. Photo / Anna King Shahab

Now, I'd be the first to label a dessert dumpling a novelty dish I don't need in my life, but I must say the chocolate xiao long bao at Din Tai Fung broke my resolve. That beautifully thin pastry skin encased molten French chocolate truffle – not at all too sweet, it was an emphatic finish to a wonderful lunch.

CHECKLIST: TAIWAN

There are 12 branches of Din Tai Fung on the island of Taiwan alone. The website has a link to download an app that lets you monitor the wait time for tables. dintaifung.com.tw/eng

Taiwan has recently lifted all Covid-19 entry restrictions and is open to tourists. Air New Zealand flies direct from Auckland to Taipei.