Most people, however old, have an inner-child, and I reacquaint with mine very quickly when visiting Disneyland. In Hong Kong, we're at this iconic play space for only a few hours, made possible on a whirlwind stopover because it's close to the airport. Whileso much is comfortingly the same as at other locations, such as Anaheim in California (where we first caught the theme-park bug a few years ago), so much is different too.
First, there are the families. In the US, they are often large in stature — and girth — travelling in dense packs, many in matching outfits, perhaps to minimise the possibility of losing one another. In Kong Kong we're struck by all the little people in buggies, with their proud parents in tow.
The Chinese one-child rule has been relaxed a bit, but many couples still have a single, much indulged son or daughter, and on this particular bright winter's day, thousands of them have flocked here to see Donald (the duck, not the president!) and other endearing Disney favourites, with Tinker Bell, Goofy, Mickey and Minnie among them.
My daughter's already bought "ears", which are practically a prerequisite for a day at Disneyland. These hats and hairbands are particularly beloved by the teenage girls who dress up in childlike clothing and walk around the park chatting and laughing and, of course, taking endless selfies, holding soft toys depicting their favourite characters.
We head for the Jungle River Cruise, a firm family favourite. While the animals are the same as in other Disney parks, the delivery certainly isn't. Our Chinese guide is so excitable, we can hardly get her drift, as she shrieks the words out in rapid-fire. But that doesn't matter as we've done the cruise before, here and in the US, and the elephants, apes and hippos in their lush, tropical settings are as incredibly lifelike as ever. It's a huge thrill for the little ones on board, who point and exclaim while their carers snap away with their phones.
Our major challenge of the day is the terrifying Grizzly Gulch, a ride featuring runaway mine cars hurtling up and down on a very fast and twisty circuit. You'll swear that you're never going to do it again — but you do.
The Hong Kong Disneyland Main Street Parade. Photo / Getty Images
Some people handle terror in white-knuckled silence. I'm one of them, clinging on to the safety bar as hard as I can. The ear-piercing screams of those taking a different approach fill the air as we traverse the rapids. A little girl signs to her deaf brother throughout the ride and, excitedly, he signs back. I notice that they go back to the end of the line immediately for a repeat performance.
Lord Mystic's Manor was being constructed last time we were here so it's great to be able to sample the end product — and it's a good one, with antiquities, art and armour among its features. Everywhere you look, inanimate objects suddenly spring to life and the attention to detail is incredible.
Zig-zagging around the park a bit, we return to the vicinity of Sleeping Beauty Castle — currently being refurbished — at Fantasyland, and enjoy some somewhat more sedate thrills on the legendary Mad Hatter teacups ride and Cinderella's Carousel.
We're sorry the Small World attraction is closed for maintenance. We've come a day too early, but Winnie the Pooh is operational and it's a fun journey through the gentle world of this beloved bear and his companion Christopher Robin.
Devoted grandparents hover over their precious bundles in prams and buggies, and hold hands with timid toddlers as the popular Flights of Fancy Parade rolls around at 3pm, with singing, dancing, acrobatics and fabulous costumes. We're all just one big, happy family here at the happiest place on earth.
FACT BOX
GETTING THERE Air New Zealand flies from Auckland to Hong Kong, with one-way Economy Class fares from $789.
Hong Kong Disneyland is a 10-minute drive, or 30-minute train journey, from Hong Kong International Airport.
