Find unexpected beauty in ancient rock art in Timaru. Photo / Venture Timaru
All together now - “there’s plenty to do in Timaru!” Or so says Lorna Riley, after ending up there unexpectedly.
“Excuse me, young man! Are you in charge of this shore excursion?” The strident American accent cuts through the still of the cave, and the young man in question nods a polite but clearly apprehensive assent. Several of us freeze. Are we about to witness a guest meltdown?
The woman ramps up. “Well then, I have something to say! This wasn’t supposed to be on our itinerary!”. To be fair, on this point, she is quite correct. We’re on a cruise around Australia and New Zealand with Azamara, and a few days prior had been advised that due to a combination of a cyclone and hull cleaning issues, we would no longer be able to visit some of the advertised and much-anticipated highlights: Milford Sound, Akaroa and Bay of Islands.
I’m not proud of this, but when our captain made his well-reasoned decision known, I scoffed loudly. Timaru, what kind of substitute is that?! I also may have apologised to some Australians in our midst (“I’m so sorry! I’m not sure if there’s anything to do there!”). The most shameful part of this? I’d never even been to Timaru. Until now, that is.
Just as the ship has had to pivot its plans, so has Timaru. With just 48 hours’ notice, a number of shore excursions have been planned for our visit, no mean feat for either the Azamara team or the town, which is welcoming its second cruise ship in less than a month. The teen and I have opted for the excursion that makes the most of our shortened day in port: checking out some ancient Māori rock art. Along with my ignorance of Timaru’s delights, I had no idea such taonga existed in South Canterbury, so it’s with enthusiasm that we board our coach along with 50 or so fellow passengers and head into the town centre.
First stop is Te Ana Māori Rock Art Centre, conveniently located in the Landing Services building on George St. The bluestone structure was built in the 1870s, and was saved from demolition in 1989 - fortunately, as it’s a wonderful building with a rich history (and with a pōhutukawa in full bloom outside, a rarity this far south).
Te Ana is a non-profit organisation, with all revenue collected from the rock art centre and its tours reinvested to protect and revitalise this precious asset. Our Ngāi Tahu guide explains that as descendants of the people that created these artworks, the iwi are now guardians of one of the most significant collections of ancient rock art in the country: eight tribal taonga cut from sites over a hundred years ago, now returned to their home and their people. Te Ana is a high-tech, high-spec space, and we feel like we’re taking a walk through Aotearoa’s first art gallery. There’s a chance to make your own rock art, hold a moa bone - and we spend a long time in the gallery shop which has a stunning array of jewellery (the perfect place to buy some pounamu), artwork and souvenirs.
We have time before our bus leaves so we head outside to browse the Timaru artisan farmers market, which normally only operates on Saturdays but has been specially set up for our visit on this grey Thursday morning. There are crafts and goodies galore, and it’s clear the market is a big hit with visitors and locals alike. It’s surely compulsory to take a snap in the giant chair under the willow tree (after all, Timaru means place of shelter), and to admire the Edwardian buildings that lend Timaru a unique charm. I’m also rather taken with the story (and Donald Paterson sculpture) of Captain Harry Cain, who went to sea at the age of 13 before settling in Timaru some 30 years later and opening a general store. Harry eventually became mayor in 1870, but met rather a sticky end when he was poisoned by his son-in-law. I resolve to be even nicer to my own son-in-law once I return home.
Then it’s on to to the main attraction: a visit to rock art in situ. During the half-hour or so bus journey to Opihi, our guide explains that there are an astounding 761 rock art sites in the South Island, and South Canterbury is home to more than half of them.
The drawings were carved into the limestone, or painted with pigments rendered from soot and iron oxide. We’re also advised that while photographs are encouraged, posting these to social media or publishing without permission is not - Instagram sacrifices a small price to pay for respect. A quick comfort stop at Pleasant Point, and then we’re disembarking at the privately owned farm where the limestone caves are located. Ngāi Tahu have done an impressive job of replanting the area with suitable natives, and there’s lots to admire as we traverse the uneven ground down to the site.
Entering the first cave, it takes a moment to adjust to the slightly claustrophobic, dusty air - but as our eyes adjust, we see some black marks and then bigger pictures begin to emerge: here, a painting of a giant bird, showing Māori were here when the giant pouāki (Haast eagle) flew overhead; there, Papatūānuku, the mother Earth; further along, a trio of taniwha. The drawings are a wonderful window to the past, while remaining open to interpretation, and our guide explains that while they represent art, they also represent science - showing us how those who came before us viewed the world around them.
We’re awestruck at this truly spiritual opportunity - and it’s now that our fellow passenger pipes up. “This wasn’t supposed to be on the itinerary!”. We wait, breath bated. “But it SHOULD be”, she exclaims, “this place is WONDERFUL!”.
She’s right. It is. And I’m wrong - there’s plenty to do in Timaru. To quote our guide: “Titia ki te uma kā taoka o nehe - pin to your heart the treasures passed down”. Timaru - you’re forever pinned to my heart.
GETTING THERE
To visit Timaru when not on an unscheduled cruise ship visit, it’s two hours’ south of Christchurch, or two and a half hours north from Dunedin.
DETAILS
For more information on Te Ana Māori Rock Art Centre and Tours, see teana.co.nz
For itineraries on Azamara cruises, see azamara.com/home
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