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Home / Travel

Hawkes Bay: The taste of the land

By Patricia Greig
NZ Herald·
8 Feb, 2015 08:30 PM4 mins to read

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Gordon Russell is head winemaker at Esk Valley Estate. Photo / Supplied

Gordon Russell is head winemaker at Esk Valley Estate. Photo / Supplied

Hawkes Bay's unique landscape and climate is reflected in the exquisite wines produced there, discovers Patricia Greig.

Hawkes Bay is a haven for creativity and community. Hip bars and tiny coffee shops seem to sprout where they're least expected and despite being surrounded by beautiful art deco buildings and century-old vineyards, the feeling evoked is certainly not antiquated.

The first wine term I learned upon my arrival in the bay was terroir.

It explains land and climate conditions, and how a certain wine may encapsulate its surroundings with a unique taste.

It's also about the human attention and energy that goes into the wine's cultivation, from the vines to the blending to the inspired final taste. It's a term that's been adopted by the Hawkes Bay region as a sort of motto.

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Vidal Estate Winery in Hastings began in 1905 and opened the country's first winery restaurant in 1979. Head winemaker Hugh Crichton aims to capture taste to reflect the unique Hawkes Bay environment in his wines and is meticulous in his processes - and it pays off.

The proof is in the chardonnay: having tried the 2010-2013 Legacy vintages under Crichton's guidance, I assure you every sip is to be savoured with complex flavours to be explored.

Nathan Bielby is the head chef at Vidal Estate's restaurant and is certainly one to watch.
Again with great attention to detail, Bielby prides himself on clean, simple flavours sourcing fresh and local produce and meat, particularly enjoying bringing the best fish to the table, improvising depending on what comes in on the boat. Hawkes Bay hums with an awareness of its well-established local food movement and farmers' markets draw in huge crowds.

Hawkes Bay people are advocates for their land. Bielby has a good-sized garden close to his kitchen and takes pleasure in harvesting produce for the Vidal Estate kitchen.

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The wine industry in Hawkes Bay prides itself on being open to exploring, sharing and adopting new techniques in order to make the best wine possible.

This attitude, paired with classic Kiwi ingenuity led winegrowers to explore the possibilities of planting the Gimblett Gravels Winegrowing District which now covers 800ha.

The result: premium red and white wines unique to the region, such as Esk Valley's Winemakers Gimblett Gravels Syrah and the aforementioned Vidal Legacy Hawkes Bay Chardonnay.

Along with Crichton, Gordon Russell, senior winemaker at Esk Valley Estate, sees wine and the use of the land and climate as an art form to express the essence of the region.

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Being able to capture the taste of the land beautifully is something to strive for.

The estate has incredible views and you can admire the terraced vineyard above the winery.

The dedicated nature of the wine community makes Hawkes Bay the perfect place to get an education on wine.

Relating to terroir and the creative processes behind wine, and using it to express yourself and your tastes is often, sadly, overlooked.

Continuing on my foray into Hawkes Bay cuisine, a visit to Napier's Mister D's pulled together the creativity and dedication behind the region's cultural ethos.

David Griffith opened the establishment following stints as head chef at Huka Lodge and Terroir at Craggy Range.

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The restaurant is buzzing, serving a vibrant bistro menu with appropriate twists.

Considering the Ahiri Port is five minutes away and remembering the pride in local food, I recommend you try the fish in a bag. Mister D recommends you drink Bollinger. Yes sir.

Down the lane right next door is Monica Loves, perfect for a pre- or post-dinner cocktail. The people of Napier are have some great ideas, following their gut instincts and doing it right.

You only have to look at the various galleries, stores and cafes that make Napier a destination - Aroha and Friends in Ahiri has a selection of designer goods and local art, and is right next to F.G. Smith, a bustling cafe showing the wares of local artists - to see the creative community is alive and well in the bay.

CHECKLIST

Getting there: Air New Zealand has up to eight flights daily from Auckland to Napier.

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Patricia Greig travelled to Hawkes Bay courtesy of Vidal Estate and Esk Valley.

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