Having fun in a hostel environment

By HEATHER RAMSAY

Curfews, daytime lockouts, menial duties, and large dormitories full of excited, fresh-faced school-leavers on their first big adventure away from home - this is what many people would expect in a youth hostel.

Anyone whose youth hostel experiences are anchored in previous decades could be forgiven for retaining such memories, but these days the reality is quite different.

The Youth Hostel Association (YHA) started in Germany in 1910 and today Hostelling International's triangular blue icon featuring a pine tree and a shelter is recognised in more than 80 countries, with New Zealand's first hostel opening in 1932.

Like the international organisation, the non-profit YHA of New Zealand has moved with the times. It entered the new millennium as a modern organisation committed to educating members about the world's people and the environment through travel, and to creating sustainable living centres which minimise their impact on the environment.

New Zealand has 24 youth hostels and 38 YHA associate hostels sprinkled from Pukenui in the Far North, to Invercargill in the deep south. Some are in the hub of busy cities, some are at remote, pristine locations, and others are situated at tourist hotspots.

Each property has its own character, but they all provide accommodation that conforms to international standards of affordability, cleanliness, comfort and security. Many also have New Zealand Qualmark ratings, for example Kiwi Paka YHA Waitomo Caves has a five-star rating (Qualmark star ratings are a guide to the quality of the accommodation with five being the top award).

Although I'm forearmed with this knowledge, when we pull up outside the Wellington YHA, I still feel a flutter of apprehension. The word "youth" no longer applies to me, and "hostel" raises the spectre of communal living, which had been buried with the flowing dresses, waistcoats and flares of student days.

Reassuringly, the outside of the Wellington YHA resembles a hotel, as does the funky, modern foyer, which is busy with people of all ages and nationalities.

However, it isn't until we're ensconced in our double, ensuite room that the fear of being cast into a dormitory with a dozen snoring, snuffling teenagers is completely laid to rest. Sure, the room and bathroom are smallish and we have to make our own bed with the sheets provided. But it's bright and clean and, best of all, it's ours and ours alone.

The Wellington YHA has been upgraded and extended, and has 300 beds in a prime inner-city location close to Te Papa, the Courtenay Place entertainment zone, and public transport.

Reflecting the changing expectations of travellers, most of these are double rooms, with either private or shared facilities. Dorms are available, but the largest sleeps only six people. These changes are mirrored in the organisation's hostels throughout the country.

Rooms don't have televisions or tea and coffee-making facilities, but there are several attractive common areas, including a spacious TV room, a library, and a games room.

The huge kitchens are well equipped - just bring food. The kitchen's recycling bins are the first sign we see of the YHA's commitment to environmental responsibility.

This is a seriously "green" organisation, paying more than just lip service to the popular eco-tourism catchphrase. It has adopted the International YHA Federation Environmental Charter, which encourages good practice in consumption, recycling, pollution, energy conservation, transport, nature and education.

New Zealand YHA-owned and operated hostels are monitored for carbon dioxide emissions and energy conservation, and the Wellington YHA has a state-of the-art system that transfers heat from used hot water. Visitors here and at other hostels will find heaters on timers, energy efficient bulbs, low-flow shower heads, dual flush cisterns and extensive recycling programmes.

Mardi Neumann, the Community Programmes Co-ordinator, enlightens us on some of the YHA's community and conservation initiatives. She's in town to put the final touches to the YHA Young Conservationist Awards, which are run in partnership with the Department of Conservation.

"It's a way of recognising the contribution of young people to conservation, and encouraging them to think of practical ways of monitoring and improving the environment," she says.

There is a strong connection with DoC, and the two organisations work side by side in a number of areas. One of these is at Opoutere on the Coromandel Peninsula, where DoC bases its Dotterel Recovery and Protection Programme at the local Youth Hostel.

Mardi is enthusiastic about Opoutere.

"It's a special place," she says, echoing the sentiments of just about everyone we've spoken to in the organisation. "You should go there sometime."

So we do. And everyone is right - it is a special place. After skirting Wharekawa Harbour we arrive at a collection of quaint buildings tucked under bush-clad Mt Maungaruahine. Fantails, tui, kereru and kaka swoop and flit around us as we take our bags into our double cabin. Their joyful chorus is the only sound, and it's easy to see why they're so happy.

The hostel is right on the inlet, and huge pohutukawa trees frame the view out to the ocean. Dolphins are leaping in the clear blue water when we walk out to the spit, which is a refuge for the endangered New Zealand dotterel.

During the September to February nesting season a DoC ranger stays at the Opoutere YHA. As well as monitoring the nests and adult birds, the ranger meets with visitors and locals, discussing details of the programme and general conservation issues.

The Opoutere Youth Hostel was originally the Wharekawa Native School, built in 1909. Aylsa Keenan, the hostel manager, points out her father - seen sitting proudly in the front row of a school photo taken in 1945 - and says it seems fitting as the family is still involved in this tiny community.

Today the school itself is a dormitory, and the old schoolhouse contains the hostel kitchen, a cosy living area and some bedrooms. The rooms and cabins don't have ensuites but the communal bathroom facilities are centrally located. The peaceful grounds have barbecue tables and a gazebo overlooking the inlet, and guests are encouraged to use fruit and herbs from the garden. Six kayaks are available free of charge.

We've experienced a busy city Youth Hostel and one off the beaten track so to complete the trinity we check into Kiwi Paka YHA at the tourist destination of Waitomo. This YHA associate hostel opened last year, and because it was purpose-built, it features everything the budget traveller could desire, and more - with even a pizza restaurant on site.

The red barn-like exterior fits well into the country landscape, and the decor in our upstairs-downstairs chalet is modern and bright.

Three hostels in three different locations have proved that it's time to get out the party hats, open the champagne and cut the cake.

With its appeal as a standard accommodation provider at the budget end of the market and its environmentally friendly, socially responsible policies, the YHA has truly come of age.

* Heather Ramsay was a guest of the YHA.

Case notes

YHA New Zealand is a non-profit incorporated society owned by members for the benefit of both New Zealand and overseas members.

Joining the YHA

Anyone can join the YHA. Adults (18+) pay $40 for 12 months, with discount options available. Under 18s are free. Non-members can stay at a YHA for an extra $4 on top of the member rate. Join at any YHA New Zealand Hostel; YHA National Office. Freephone 0800 278 299; YHA website; most visitor information centres and travel agents throughout New Zealand.

The benefits

The YHA card is valid at 4200 hostels in more than 80 countries. Members also get discounts on selected transport and tourist activities, and many other products and services nationally and internationally. Members receive Hostelling HorizoNZ, a biannual magazine.

What to expect

Twenty-four hour access. Blankets, duvets, pillows and bed linen are all supplied free. Towel provision varies - some hostels supply them free, others require a deposit. Fully equipped, self-catering kitchens. Domestic and travel booking service is available at key hostels. National and international hostel booking service.

Groups and families

Groups and families are generally welcome but it pays to check with the hostel when making your booking.

People with disabilities

Many hostels cater for people with disabilities but facilities vary so it always pays to check when you book.

YHA New Zealand