Hanmer Springs: Making tracks

Tramping around Hanmer offers such spectacular lookouts as this one on the ridge of the Hanmer Range. Photo / Joe Power

Kate Roff discovers there's more to do in Hanmer Springs than soaking in hot water.

Hanmer Springs has long been known for its steamy baths, but more and more visitors are discovering the area's fantastic tramping trails. Your best bet is to hand over $3 at the tourist information centre for a pamphlet outlining short tramps, half-day hikes and whole-day excursions in the region. Here are some picks:

The waterfall track - a five-minute drive out of town. This shady, mostly sheltered walk is a pleasant meander, and the thin 41m-high Dog Stream Waterfall at one end is the perfect climax to the 2 hour tramp. There's plenty to see along the way, with lush ferns, mosses and native orchids dotting the path. Crossing a stream by rock-hopping also adds a sense of adventure. We returned via Spur Track, which took us through an eerily quiet pine plantation - beautiful in the afternoon light.

Mt Isobel Track - a more adventurous trail, with a five-hour return trip.

Deemed the most "popular track to the summit" on the guide map, the trail winds up the Hanmer Range with glorious views over the plains and across to the Amuri Range.

The walk is consistently steep and, as a fellow hiker described it, "cosy" - meaning single file tramping is required. It's subalpine scrub for most of the way, so hikers are fairly exposed and get stunning glimpses of the basin below. The view from the top is unbeatable and this trail links up with the waterfall track if you want a slight detour to see the cascades.

Conical Hill - an hour return trail that begins about a 10-minute walk from the town centre. The sheltered hut at the top provides the perfect spot to look out over the town. At the peak you will see a plaque remembering Duncan Rutherford, the man who masterminded the trail.

IF YOU GO

Where to stay: Cheltenham House was built in the 1930s but has been converted to a luxurious retreat. We stayed in the Rutherford room, with a sweet sunroom that opened out to the perfectly manicured gardens.

Alternatively, try Hanmer Backpackers, which offers clean, comfortable accommodation with a kitchen and barbecue area.

Where to eat: Powerhouse for tasty cafe food or the Italian-style eatery Rustic (8 Conical Hill Road). Try one of their trademark "seven deadly cocktails" - one TimTam Gluttony and I was hooked.

Further information: See hurunui.com for more information on tramps in the area.

Kate Roff travelled courtesy of Yourway Car Rental.